Backpacking the Grand Canyon?

Question

I'm visiting the Grand Canyon in May. We've decided to backpack. We've decided either South Kaibab going in and Bright Angel coming out or Hermit trail going in and Bright Angel coming out.
I am not an experienced backpacker, but the person I'm going with is. We're both in pretty good shape....
Any advice on either loop? And what can I expect? Any info or advice would be great!

I'm only considering the Hermit trail because the Bright Angel Campground is almost full. We are staying 2 nights in the canyon, so we'd take that trail in sections because it's so long.

Answer 1

The Grand Canyon is a great place for backpackers of all skill levels and backpacking is one of the best ways to experience the canyon. Some canyon trails are much more difficult than others and where ever you backpack, you want to be physically fit and properly equiped and prepared.

One big challenge that you are going to face is getting a permit (which is required for all overnight stays in the canyon). Permits can be requested up to 4 months in advance and fill up quickly for popular months. May permits have been open for reservation since Feb 1, so they may be hard to get now (especially for weekends). Although you must fax or mail in permit requests, you can call the backcountry office (see info below) first to see if there are any openings for the campgrounds/dates you are looking for. If there are not any openings, you can always try showing up at the Backcountry Office (near Maswik lodge) when they open (8AM) and see if you can pick-up a walk-in permit for the following day - there is no guarantee that you will get one though.

As for which trails to take:
The classic first canyon backpack trip is the one you mention above of going down South Kaibab (SK) trail and up Bright Angel (BA) with a night at Bright Angel campground (near Phantom Ranch) and possibly another night half-way up BA at Indian Gardens campground. I would recommend the second night at Indian Gardens (if you can get it) as it gives you time to enjoy the overlook at Plateau Point and takes the edge off the climb out. Also with the climbing temperatures of May, the much cooler Indian Gardens will actually probably be more pleasant than Bright Angel campground at the bottom.

Although it is a great hike, I would not recommend your other route of Hermit Trail to Bright Angel along the Tonto Trail because this is much longer/rougher for a first backpack and with little shade or water along the Tonto it could be very hot and miserable (especially in the later part of May). The Hermit-BA trip is best for late fall or early spring.

As for what you can expect along the SK-BA route:
South Kaibab is one of my favorite trails in the canyon because it follows a ridge line much of the way and so has excellent sweeping views (as opposed to most canyon trails which are tucked back in side canyons). However, for the same reason there is very little shade along the trail and there are NO water stops. You will want to leave early and get down to the bottom of the trail before the afternoon heat sets in. It is 6.2 miles to the bottom and you can expect to take 3.5-5 hours going down. There are nice outhouse (with toilet paper, but no water) a third of the way at Cedar Ridge and just above the inner gorge (the Tipoff). Carry at least 3 liters of water.

As a poster above mentions, you can no longer drive directly to the SK trailhead (near Yaki Point) and must take a shuttle. Note that they have several express shuttles on the hour each morning that go directly to the trailhead without the other stops in between. You can pick it up at the shuttle stop below El Tovar or at the Backcountry office. The trailhead for Bright Angel is right next to the lodges with parking nearby.

Both SK and BA are well-maintained trails, but they are still trails. There are places of uneven ground and rocks and places where erosion has worn ruts. No sections are technical or particulary scary, but it is not like walking over a sidewalk or up a nice even flight of stairs either. There is very little level ground in the canyon - you are almost always going either up or down (though some places are steeper than others). Take breaks frequently (once per hour or so) and during longer breaks try to elevate your feet to help circulation and flush out the toxins.

Bright Angel campground at the bottom is very nice. The camps are all located along a Bright Angel creek and most spots have decent shade. Each numbered site has a picnic table, pole for hanging packs and ammo cans to keep critters out of food. Drinking water is available and the bathroom have running water and toilet paper. Keep in mind that no fires are allowed in the canyon, so if you are planning on cooking your food, you must bring a little backpackers stove.

The camp is right next to Phantom Ranch where there are dorms and cabins for rent (reservations needed long in advance). You can buy cold drinks, snacks, and a few suppliers at the Phantom Ranch canteen (also t-shirts - there is a special one each year that can only be bought at Phantom Ranch). Sometimes backpackers can even get dinner or breakfast reservations at the canteen too (call Xanterra). Be sure to attend the evening ranger talks as these are always interesting and entertaining.

The hike up Bright Angel, begins with a 2.5 mile walk along the river (one of the main reasons that BA is longer than SK) and then a steep climb up the 'Devils Corkscrew' switchbacks to get out of the Inner Gorge (you will want to do this early before it gets hot). On top the inner gorge, sits Indian Gardens campground in a grove of shade trees near a running stream. Each campsite is similar to those at Bright Angel, except each site also has a covered ramada. There is drinking water and nice composting pit toilets (no water in the bathrooms). There is no canteen or other place to buy drinks or snacks. Nearby Plateau Point (overlooking the Inner Gorge) is an excellent place for sunset).

From Indian Gardens, it is another 5+ miles to the top. There is much more shade along the upper BA trail than there was along SK and there are rest houses (with water and toilets) at 3 and 1.5 miles from the top. Total distance on BA from the Bright Angel campground at the bottom to the rim is about 10 miles.

General recommendations on what to bring:
Be warned that May is a time of change for the canyon temperature wise. Early May can often still have nice hiking temperatures while late May can already be getting brutally hot (I have been in 105+ F temps at the bottom on Memorial Day). Average highs and lows for May generally run 70s/40s on the South Rim and 90s/60s for Phantom Ranch at the bottom.

Heat exhaustion and dehydration are the biggest source of health problems and emergencies in the canyon, so be prepared. Have a broad-brimmed hat, sunblock, lots of salty snacks, and electrolytes (like Gookinade) for your water. Resist the temptation to carry too much. They have a scale at the backcountry office for weighing your pack. A light water-proof hiking jacket is never a bad idea. If you are going in late May, you could probably get by with a nice fleece liner instead of a full sleeping bag. LED headlamps are great for getting around camp at night.

Also, I strongly recommend the use of trekking poles (light-weight ski pole looking things) when backpacking in the canyon. They take the equivelent of 10+ pounds off your back and help reduce strain on joints. They can also help with stability and balance in rougher trail areas.

Lastly, to make the most of your trip... read up a little ahead of time to know and understand what you will be seeing along the way. The canyon is famous for geology and understanding what the different rock layers are as you hike through them can make the trip even more interesting. I have put some recommendations at the bottom.

******** Hermit Trail Update
The biggest problem with going from Hermit to BA is the 10 mile stretch from Monument Canyon to Indian Gardens during which there is very little shade and no reliable water (even if there is any at Horn Creek, it is contaminated by mine tailings). Even the water at Monument will need to be purified/filtered. If it is a clear day and the temps get much above 80, that could be a bad stretch and you would certainly need to carry lots of extra water. Hermit itself is a much rougher steeper/trail than either BA or SK.

I am not saying don't do the Tonto trail - just that it is a much bigger step up from SK or BA in terms of dealing with heat/water issues. If you can't do 2 nights at the bottom, try to get 1 at Indian Gardens (I would recommend that over 2 at the bottom in summer anyways). If you do attempt the Tonto carry lots of water; hike in the morning and late afternoon - find a shady spot to rest during the worst noon-3 period if it gets hot. Again tho... there can be a big temp diff between 1st weekend in May and the last.

Answer 2

I would say take the S. Kaibab/Bright Angel route for a few reasons.
But first, are going on a day hike? Or are you going to camp? How many days are you going to spend in the Canyon?
1) These are the main trail used to get in and out of the Canyon. Should something go wrong, these are the trails you are going to get help on. Over 400 people per year are "rescued" by back country rangers.
2) You do not need a special permit to hike those trails (you will need a permit to camp at Indian Gardens or the camp ground at Phantom Ranch-I can't remember the name).
3) There is water on the Bright Angel trail (none on the S. Kaibab)
And, finally, a couple of words of warning: DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TRY TO HIKE TO THE RIVER AND BACK IN ONE DAY. Even on the shortest trails it is a 14 mile round trip and has fallen many a veteran hiker.

For info on permits, trail, ect. go to www.nps.gov They have tons of info and phone numbers if you want to talk to a real live person. Also, if you want to hike in and stay at Phantom Ranch (or at least eat there) call Xanterra at 928-638-2631 and ask for the Transportation Desk. They may not be able to take your reservation, but they are the experts on info.

Answer 3

Actually the grand canyon is not for beginners , even if you are in otherwise good shape but
If you insist , pack in lots of water because many people underestimate how much it takes (and by may it will be hot)

http://www.grand-canyon.info/back.htm

And remember , in addition to the miles out , you have almost a mile in elevation to climb back up.
The time in is 4 to 6 hours , more going back out.

South Kaibab Trail: 6,7mi (10,3km) total distance; 4860ft (1433m) elevation change.
The trailhead is at Yaki Point. Park at the Backcountry Office and use the shuttle to get to the trailhead. Hikers will come out of the canyon close to their automobile.
Drinking water is available at the trailhead between May and September.
The Hike typically takes 4-6 hours.
Take at least 4 quarts/liters water per person. There is no water available on the trail!
Toilets are at Cedar Ridge.
There are also toilets and an emergency phone at the Tipoff (5 miles from trailhead).
Cross black bridge to access the campground.

Bright Angel Trail: 9,6mi (14,6km) total distance;