ball python habitat?

Question

i'm looking into getting a ball python and want more information.

i read up on how the humidity is important for the snake. would a small rubbermaid tote with a hole cut in the top work for a soak-safety zone? and if i didn't get that, what would be a good way to ensure the humidty level.

also, heating mat vs. a heating lamp. what's the difference/pros and cons of each?

any bad things about the ball python i should know about? do tell.

<3 thankyou.

Answer 1

Aside from on-line answers, I'd check with 1) the dealer selling your ball, or 2) your local PetSmart/PetCo, etc.

I owned my balls over 12 years ago, so it's been some time, but in general...

You will need a bowl large enough for your python to curl up completely inside. Many/most snakes use this method for both tempurature regulation and humidity. I used a large, terra cotta-like shallow water dish, like a dog bowl, for my snakes. This serves both thirst and environment needs

Regarding the heat lamp vs. heating pad. The heating pad heats just one area of the terrarium, giving your snake the option to heat bathe on it or not, depending on his needs at the time. The lamp heats the entire terrarium, which is still necessary, especially in the winter. Remember, cold blooded, he has no way of regulating his own temperature except with his surroundings.

I used both. My water bowl was half on/half off the heating pad on one side of the cage. This contributed to the humidity factor inside the terrarium. The heating lamp I had on a timer so I didn't accidentally cook my poor snake. And don't use just any ol' heating pad. Make sure you get a reptile-safe version from the pet store. Regular heating pads are *way* to hot usually. Additionally, make sure the heating pad is on one side of the cage, that way your snake decides how much, or little, heat he wants. My pad adhered underneath the glass bottom.

Also, you will need to provide a shelter, enclosed on three sides and on top, with a smaller opening. This will allow your snake to feel secure in his territory - that's his place only. In the beginning this can be a simple as a cardboard box. You just want to ensure that he can get into it completely without lifting it up. You may want to invest in a "rock" structure from the pet store eventually as he'll probably climb on top of it and cardboard crushes easily. If you can work this into the half on/half off of the heating pad, cool - I think. Confer with the vet or petsmart folks about this one.

Additionally, I'd recommend box-feeding your snake (size permitting). In this method you DO NOT feed your snake in his terrarium. Instead you take the snake out, put him in a box or paper bag (when he is small) with nothing in it and that you only use for feeding. Drop the mouse into the box. This way your snake knows food only comes when he's in the box and reduces the risk he'll think your hand is food when you reach for him in his terrarium.

Always make sure your wash your hands before and after handing your snake. Keep a lock on the lid of the terrarium. Your snake will explore. And if he gets out (which he will at least once) look nearby. My snakes rarely traveled further than ten feet from their cage and then usually into a small, confined space to hide.

Other than that, my balls were great apartment pets. Unagressive and fun. Look for a snake that wraps into a tight ball when shopping. One snake wrapped into a lazy ball and was a very lazy snake. Not that bright at all.

Do make sure you have a vet. You may experience ticks and such which a vet can help you with.

Other than that, have fun! Ball python's are a great first reptile.

Answer 2

Thank you, thank you, thank you for asking about this and doing research before purchasing your snake! Balls are very docile and easy to maintain snakes.

The humidity question may be easily answered depending upon where you live. The best thing you can do is to purchase a digital thermometer that has humidity levels as well as temperature. You can find the thermometers at your local home improvement store or Target/Wal-mart/etc. I would highly recommend using one of these thermometers instead of the dial types at your pet store. The dial type thermometers can be off by quite a bit. I also recommend getting one that has a probe. This way you can put the thermometer in the tank at the cool end, and put the probe at the far end of the tank where the basking area is. This way you can monitor the temp of both areas with a single unit. If the humidity in your house stays around 40% then the humidity in the snake tank is going to be a bit higher due to evaporation of the drinking water. Inside the tank you should maintain a humidity of 50% or so. If you don't like the idea of a humidity box, you can increase the humidity in the tank by using a spray bottle a couple times a day. The find mist will work well to increase the humidity for a short time.

Depending on how cold your house gets at night, you may be able to get away with only a heat lamp used for basking. If the temperature does not go below 68º in your home at night (your new digital thermometer with probe should have a Min/Max on it and this will give you great information), then you can use just the heat lamp during daylight hours. If the temp drops farther than that, you will need some supplemental heating. I would recommend staying away from the commercial UTH's out there (under tank heaters). These pads can get extremely hot and require a thermostat to properly work. That said, you can purchase one and place it on the outside of the tank on the back wall in the corner. This way there will be a gentle heat your snake can use, but it won't be dangerous. This mounting works very well if you put the bottom edge of the mat about an inch higher than the bottom rim of the enclosure (assuming you are purchasing a glass aquarium type tank). You will have the option of using ceramic emitters or basking spot lamps for basking areas. I recommend using the emitter if you don't want the extra light in the house, but the basking spot lamps are perfectly fine. Ceramic emitters are also good if you choose to use them to heat the enclosure at night. They won't put off any light so they are perfect for 24 hour heating. Remember, you will need a specially designed lamp to use a ceramic emitter, so check and make sure it is designed for them.

If you are going to purchase the tank from a pet store, I suggest you take a look at the 40gal wide Critter Cage. A 55gal tank seems like a better choice, but your ball is a terrestrial snake and not aboreal, so having more surface area for the "ground" is much better. Your python will climb, so remember to decorate the tank with something he can climb on as well as ground covers. With the all screen top of cages like these, you may need to cover half or ⅔ of the top. This will help maintain the humidity as well as the temp in the tank.

Hope it helps, and don't hesitate to ask again.

Answer 3

Are you sure that you want a 5-6 feet snake in your house?
Anyway - from what I read it has extremely docile temperaments - so good luck!


The Ball python (Python regius), also known as the Royal python, is a ground dwelling, nonvenomous snake native to the savannahs and rain forests in western Africa, predominantly the countries of Ghana, Togo, and Benin. The name Ball derives from its tendency, that when stressed, to curl into a tight "ball" with their heads hidden inside, often for long periods of time. The name Royal (from the regius in the Latin name) comes, in part, from Cleopatra who supposedly wore them around her wrists.

They are typically light brown-green and black in color, with a tan-yellow underbelly. However, Ball pythons come in many morphs, which are genetic mutations that alter the colors and patterns of the scales. Adults can range from 3 to over 6 feet in length, with the average female reaching 3 to 5 feet and the average male reaching 2 to 3 feet. A mature female will commonly grow distinctly larger than the male.

Due to their manageable size in comparison with other pythons and extremely docile temperaments, captive bred Ball pythons have become very popular as pets. Wild-caught Ball pythons have greater difficulty adapting to captive environments, which can result in difficult feeding and parasitic infection. Captive bred pythons are the safest to keep as pets. Their diet can be pinky rats or small hopper mice when they are babies, up to large rats when they are full grown.

Answer 4

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