1985 Buick Skyhawk - Starter Bendix not Disengaging - Need Help!!!?

Question

Just replaced starter on 85 Skyhawk 2.0L .

With the wire to the distributor off (so it won't start) the starter motor turns the engine smoothly. Once the wire is replaced, it cranks smoothly but as soon as the engine begins running on its own it lets out this terrible, terrible squaling-grinding noise. From what I can see under the car (very tight squeeze, by the way) the bendix is not properly disengaging.

Currently have 2 shims between block and starter measuring about 0.0700" Specs say no more than 0.065" should be required to maintain clearance of bendix gear and flywheel - yet even with more clearance the gear is only partially disengaging. (From what I can see, the gear is only engaged about 1/4 way into the flywheel gear)

Do you think additional shims might help or is there a more serious problem with the bendix not pulling out?

Thanks a lot

beaconfinal

Thank you for all your advice. After much wiring diagnostics I determined it was, after all, shimmed improperly and the flywheel was rubbing on part of the starter housing. I take issue with the manufacturer's tolerances as they were out by over 0.0600" !!!!!!

Thanks again!

Answer 1

You say that the engine cranks smoothly when the distributer is disabled so the car wont start. This tells me that the starter type is correct or it would grind when turning the engine over with no power to the ignition.
Is there constant power to the starter bendix? To find out, different wires are fastened to the starter bendix. A test light will light if you test the wire that comes from the ignition. The ignition wire normally will only have power when the key is turned to start the engine. It should not have power when the key is released from the start position. If this is the case, either the wire is shorted out or the ignition switch is worn causing this.

Looking at the solenoid or if you can not get to it, go to the parts store and look at a new starter on the solenoid and see where the wires would attach to. One should say IGN for ignition. Put the test light or multimeter on this wire disconnected from the starter. If you see the test light light up or the multimeter register voltage when not turning the key to the start position, then this is the problem.


AT THIS STAGE DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY
The quickest way to find out the correct wire from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch is to attach the leads from the unattached starter solenoid IGN side wire to the disconnected ignition switch wiring connector. Rule out larger or smaller size (gage) wires and also the color of the wire sometimes. You will have continuity on an ohmmeter, 0.0 reading or sometime 0.1, 0.2, etc. a no number reading indicates that it is the wrong wire. Once you have the correct wire, then you can start testing with a test wire.


RECONNECT YOUR BATTERY
To eliminate if it is the wire itself that is bad (shorted out), route a test wire from the IGN side of the starter to the ignition switch where the original wire connects to the ignition switch. You have to make sure to disconnect the original wire from the ignition switch and the starter solenoid when you do this.

If the test wire does not light up (test light) Multimeter (show voltage) ,when the ignition switch is turned into the start position, then it is your wire that runs from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. If the wire still lights up (test Light) multimeter (show voltage) then it is a worn ignition switch and the ignition switch needs replaced.

This testing requires no costs of buying parts to find out what is wrong. Remember that you are changing the multimeter from volts to ohms and back to volts. If unsure of what ohm continuity should read on the multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohm position looks like a horeshoe picture, touch both multimeter leads together. The reading of 0.0 indicates a complete circuit, the same will be true of a wire. If you seperate the leads, then you have an open circuit with no continuity, no reading on the multimeter display.

This type of trouble shooting is a pain, but the answer is somewhere and the most pesky of problems are a simple fix away. Good luck.

Answer 2

i own a repair shop and i don't think its the shims causing this to happen on it,i think its the starter its self doing this it sounds like the solenoid switch is not pulling the Bendix back on it once you let off of it,either that or you have the wires crossed on the starter where the one for the ignition side goes on it,and i don't even think that would cause this,id say the gave you a bad starter,id take it back to them and have them check it,they can put it on a machine and check it,and see what its doing,that has to be whats causing this to happen ,good luck i hope this helps.

Answer 3

Sounds to me like a defect in the Bendix. After you release the key it should completely disengage from flywheel. Do not keep trying to use this. Take it out and take it back. Get another.

Answer 4

I'm thinking they sold you the wrong starter.

Answer 5

go get another starter,could be defective or even the wrong starter.