What is the best way to treat ick dealing with the following circumstances?

Question

-I have 6 neon tetras and 2 gold gouramis in a 37 gallon tank (minus gravel, plants, rocks- probably equals more like 32 gallons)

-I first noticed the ick late last night, and it is only in the beginning stages. It has infected all the tetra, but I'm not sure about the gouramis.

-The ammonia levels were previously high, so I cut out all feedings for the last 2 days, did a 25% water change and added Ammonia Clear tablets Thursday. I just brought it into a safe zone: .25

-I just completed a water change about 45 minutes ago; somewhere in between 25 and 33%.

-I bought "Ick Clear" tablets by Jungle. I also have aquarium salt and Stress Coat.

The tank has been running for about 3 weeks now. It was my hubby's project. I knew nothing about aquariums until this week when I took over because of suprise, madatory OT on his part. Anyways, he added 3 gouramis a week after the tetra, which were added after only 2 days of cycling. I come into the picture with no knowledge, sick gouramis (one died), and then sick tetra, a few days after the gouramis were added.

So after much reading during the past few days, I assume that there must have been an ammonia spike due to added waste the gouramis were producing, and that ammonia poisoning was taking its toll on the poor fishies. So I start doing water changes, and bought chemicals to reduce the ammonia, etc., and .25, although is not quite "safe," is still much better than it had been. (I added salt today for the nitrite poisoning that was soon to come.) There was an immediate change in their behavior. They weren't lethargic and hanging at the bottom (and top) of the aquarium.

Last night, I noticed tiny, white specs on the tetra's fins. Maybe 2-4 per fish. They were also repeatedly rubbing up against rocks and shining/flashing their silver underside. So, back to researching again. They matched the picture of the tetra on about.com’s freshwater website:

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/ich.htm

All the problems started a day after the gouramis were introduced. I’m assuming that since the tetra were more hardy, they could take the poor water conditions, and once the gouramis were added nobody could take it. I’m just trying to save the fish. I’ve already laid claim on the aquarium now that I’ve found I have an interest. If the tablets do not cure it, should I replace the carbon and filter out the unnecessary meds, and get the real stuff. I’m worried about treating the tetra, as I’ve read in many places that they do not handle the meds well.

Also, please explain airstone/pump setups. They keep saying to increase aeration for nitrite problems.

Also, the carbon is *not* the blue pad, correct?? The carbon is the cylindrical thing that spins??? (Eclipse 2)

Answer 1

Ick is a parasite in your aquarium. It is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis NOT Crptocaryon irritans I can guarantee you 100% you DO NOT have that organism in your tank DO NOT treat for it!). To dispel some common myths it is not caused by poor water quality or low temperatures, or ammonia, or dirty filters or anything else like that. It does not lurk around in a tank waiting to attack fish, it does not only attack weakened fish, it is not airborne. None of that is true. It is caused by a specific parasite and must be introduced into the tank. This usually happens when you bring in new fish from an infected tank. The best treatment for ick in a tropical aquariums is:

Change a large portion of the water, about 50-60% while cleaning the gravel very well.

Clean the filter and change all the media but leave out the carbon.

Add 2 tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons of the tank. Less will not help kill the ick! Salt alone will kill the ick. Other may say not, but they are frankly wrong. Scientifically wrong.

Raise the temperature to 88-90 F. Raise it slowly, about 1 degree per hour. You may need to add an air stone or two depending on the type of fish and how heavily the tank is stocked. Lower temperatures will NOT assist in killing the ick!! This temperature alone will kill most ick, any temperature above about 86.5 F will.

Add a good ick medication as directed on the bottle. Try to find a medication that used Malachite Green as the active ingredient. (CAUTION: Malachite Green is a known carcinogen. Be careful not to get it on your skin!)

Change 25% or more of the water daily being sure to clean the gravel as you do so.

Continue the treatment for at least 7 days after you see the last white spots on any of the fish.

After the treatment, return the carbon to your filter and lower the temperature to normal.

This will work and will remove the ick from your tank.

MM

EDIT: The airstone / pump set up people are reffering to is a pump from the pet shop with tubing to carry air into the tank. An air stone is a small end to the tubing (air line) the causes it to break up into fine bubbles. All this does is increase water motion and allow for more gas exchange on the surface of your tank.

The carbon is the black stuff that looks like small rocks in the filter. Usually inside a white or blue pad. No need to filter out the old medication in this case.

You can treat the ick with only heat and salt. Be sure to get the heat over 87 F and add enough salt ( 2 tablespoons per 5 gallons.) This is a faily slow method of treatment but it works. The tetras can handle a standard Malachite green ick medication without a problem in my experience. You would want to avoid this medication for scaleless fishes like catfishes, other than that it is the medication of choice for fungus and most all external parasites. Do add the air pump / air stone set up when you do the high heat treatment as it can cause your oxygen levels to drop.

I would suggest a product named Amquel for the ammonia problem. it is the only product of it's type I am comfortable suggesting in this situation but it will render the ammonia basically harmless to the fish, but still available to the bacteria so the bacteria will continue to grow. Ammonis clear doesn't allow the bacteria to continue using the ammonia so it stops your cycle process. If it gets too high, just do larger and more frequent water changes.

Hope this helps and feel free to contact me if needed.

MM

Answer 2

Take out your carbon and use a product called Quick Cure, follow instructions carefully then make sure you do a series of 25% water changes when treatment is done. There is another way that is safer and could be more effective. First raise the temp to 83 (add additional airstones if available) then use 1 teaspoon of non iodized salt per gallon in the morning then repeat in the afternoon. Then repeat the same thing the next day. Leave them like that for 2 weeks then change the water with out salt. If you need to make a water change within the two weeks make sure you use water w 4 teaspoons of salt per gallon. Ick has a life cycle what you did was kill off mature microbes and then the babies came out. The fish dealer did not quarintine long enough or at all. Cold water can sometimes bring about ick. Lower the temp when done salting. Ick cannot live in water warmer than 82. Good luck!

Answer 3

First off, it is a good thing you caught it in time. Secondly, stop using so many chemicals in your tank. Ammonia clear is not needed if you are maintaining a regular maintenance schedule. (Kind of sounds like the tank isn't cycled completely here how long has it been up and running?)

.25 really isn't safe for tropical fish. It should be 0 or as close as you can get it.

I found that Ich clear from jungle does not kill the Cryptocaryon parasite. You need to find an Ich treatment that states on the bottle it specifically kills Cryptocaryon. Adding salt is good but understand it doesn't KILL ich. It will only allow the formed parasite to drop from the fish (i.e. salt dips). the parasite is still and will remain in the tank. Upping the temps unless you go above 90 also will not kill ich. (I don't know where people have learned about ich here).

As long as you treat with a medicine designed to kill the type of ich you have, you will be fine. Did you remember to remove your filter pads? Do not add stress coat at the same time you are treating for ich.

Answer 4

I had ick in my tank a little while ago and I used the Jungle tabs and it cleared up after three days of using them. Make sure you do a big water change after though because if the stuff that comes off the tabs stays in your tank for a long time it can do some damage. Also, when using the tabs remove your filter cartridge but keep the filter running. Good Luck!

Answer 5

You are doing good. One thing I would suggest is to raise your temperature to about 82-85 degrees. That will speed up the life cycle of the ich parasite.

You caught it early so it should not take more than a couple of days for treatment.

Answer 6

Keep doing everything you are doing, but take the carbon out of your filter. Keep your filter running though.

Answer 7

just a warning, aquarium salt and stress coat irritate a fishes skin so they produce the stress coat, which adds to the stress, so I would use the ick clear tablets and turn your heat up

Answer 8

Your doing everything you need to do! keep it up. and give it time!!! I lose all my fish once to ick! :( so good luck! try doing 50% water changes every two days to! GOOD LUCK