my intake manifold runner control is stuck open, how do I close it?

Question

I have a 98 ford windstar, and the service engine light is on. It is on because the intake manifold runner control is stuck open. how do I fix this, or, how much would it cost to have it serviced/ possibly replaced?

Answer 1

Please ignore the answers about beating on it. I had the same problem. I just added a page about this to the google windstar group:

http://groups.google.com/group/Windstar/web/imrc-trouble---p1537-p1538

That page should give you all the information you need. It has pictures to help you find everything, and links to other information sources.

Here's the text from the page, but it's much better if you visit the link above so you can see the pictures:

IMRC trouble - P1537 & P1538 and other problems

Right now I'm working on fixing my Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) on my 98 3.8L Windstar. There are two of these things bolted on the engine near the top, behind the alternator and belt. These things seem to cause trouble very frequently, so I'd like to share the information I gathered about this. There are two common problems with these things. One problem is that they can break on the inside, causing them to get stuck in one position. The other common problem is that the little plastic clips that hold the rod in to the lever can break.

Problem 1 - Broken Inside

My check engine light was on for a while, so I got a diagnostic trouble code reader. The two codes it showed were P1537 and P1538. I searched the web for information about these codes. They indicate that the IMRC's are stuck open. One code is for bank 1, the other is for bank 2. This apparently happened because the rubber "bellows" had a hole inside one IMRC. The two banks share a vacuum source, so when one gets a hole, the other one loses vacuum and stops closing because of the leak. So they both get stuck open, and the vacuum leak might affect other systems too.

The easiest way to test for the broken bellows is to take the little vacuum hose off the IMRC, push the rod in on the IMRC, put a finger over the hole where the vacuum hose was, then release the rod. If the vacuum inside the IMRC holds the lever in, then it's ok, otherwise it's bad.

When you start the engine both IMRC's should move from the open position to closed postion. If only one is leaking, then they will both stay open. You can unplug the vacuum hose for the bad one and use your finger to cover the hole on the end of the rubber boot, and the good IMRC will close. As a temporary thing, I stuck duck tape over the end of the vacuum line for the bad IMRC. Now at least one works.

Probably the best way to fix one of these is to get one from a junkyard. They are pretty expensive if you buy one new. Rockauto.com has them for around $70 a piece. One of the IMRC's is the Left, the other is Right. Make sure to replace Left with Left and Right with Right.

It's difficult to reach the bolts to loosen them. With the right combination of socket entensions, you should be able to get them without removing anything else, but it might help to remove the alternator.

There's another way you might be able to fix these things, but it's pretty complicated. You can cut the plastic part open, then the spring and stuff inside pops out. You might be able to replace the rubber bellows part with a piece of fat bicycle inner tube. This is what I'm trying now, and it's a pain.

Problem 2 - Broken Retainer Clip

This is a problem that I will soon have to deal with, since the clip broke when I took my broken IMRC out of the van. It seems that other people's clips tend to break during normal driving.

The clips are at the end of the rods where they go through the hole in the lever. You might be able to buy replacement parts for these, or you can rig something up.

My plan is to cut a little piece of metal off a soup can or soda can, and put a little hole in the middle of it. Then I will put the end of the rod through the hole in the lever, and use my little piece of can metal, sticking the end of the rod through the hole in the can metal. If done right, the piece of metal from the can should clip on and hold the lever in there. If necessary, I might put a little drop of epoxy on it - but just a little drop - because I might have to take this thing off again.

Conclusion and Sources

This should give some helpful information to anybody having trouble with their IMRC's. Here are my main sources of information that I used to write this:

http://www.cartrackers.com/Forums/live/fordwindstar/1280.html

http://www.cartrackers.com/Forums/live/fordwindstar/2126.html

http://www.flatratetech.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t12144.html

Pictures came from:

http://www.geocities.com/[e-mail]/imrc.htm

Answer 2

Intake Manifold Runner Control

Answer 3

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
my intake manifold runner control is stuck open, how do I close it?
I have a 98 ford windstar, and the service engine light is on. It is on because the intake manifold runner control is stuck open. how do I fix this, or, how much would it cost to have it serviced/ possibly replaced?

Answer 4

My ford focus 2009 model Did not start because of this check engine Intake manifold runner control circuit bank 1

Answer 5

if you are positive this is the problem...try sea foam lubricant and tap on it with a rubber mallot...is there a sensor near this piece?..the check engine light could be the e.g.r. valve. Clean this with sea foam to reset the check engine light, disconnect the negative side of the battery let it set for 15-30 seconds, and then hook it up. If everything was fixed the light will be off

Answer 6

Beat on it with a rubber hammer to un stick it but you are going to have to replace it........vans are hard as heck to work on

Answer 7

spray some wd40