Sewing machine help?

Question

I'm trying to finish the edges of a piece of fabric - turned it under, pinned it in place - but when I run the sewing machine over it to sew it down, I get very loose loops on the bottom side. It looks normal on top, and then I turn it over and it's just ugly. I've tried it twice now and gotten the same results. Oddly, when I did the short sides of the fabric, I had no problems. The long sides are making me crazy.

I'm going relatively slowly, since it's been years since I used a sewing machine and I want to keep my lines straight. Would this have anything to do with it?

Thanks!

Answer 1

Your tension is off. Your sewing speed has nothing to do with the tension. The following is a check list for you to go through.

Check the thread path. Is the machine threaded correctly?

Make sure the top thread is “snapped” between the tension disks, not riding on top of them.

Clean out the bobbin case. Every bobbin change, remove lint that may have built up inside the case and under the check spring. Also check under the tension finger on the outside of the case. Thread fibers can build up under the finger, reducing the tension on the bobbin thread.

See if you can achieve proper tension by adjusting top tension first; if the desired look is not achieved, adjust the bobbin case tension. (Remember that you can adjust the top tension knob a half-turn or more before you’ll see much impact on the thread tension; however, the bobbin case tension is much more sensitive and should be adjusted only about 1/8 of a turn at a time.)

If the top thread “lies” on the quilt top, it’s winning the thread tug of war. Start by loosening the top tension. If you have extensively loosened the top tension and see little or no impact, then tighten bobbin case tension. Be sure that some tension still exists on the top thread. You should feel resistance as you pull the thread through the needle’s eye.

If the bobbin thread “lies” on the quilt back, start by tightening the top tension, which will cause the top thread to pull a little harder. Usually this will solve the problem. However, if your thread is fragile, increasing the top thread tension might cause your top thread to break more often. In this case, you’ll want to also loosen bobbin case tension so that it’s not putting as much stress on the top thread. If you’ve tightened the top thread extensively and are still not seeing results, then also loosen the bobbin tension so that the top thread can pull the bobbin thread into the quilt’s layers.

Use the “bobbin drop” test (see below) as a starting point, but be willing to adjust bobbin tension beyond that, depending on your thread choice: Yo-yo test results should start at: 3-4 inches for pre-wound bobbins, 4-5 inches for plastic bobbins, 5-7 inches for metal bobbins

Consider keeping different bobbin cases for different threads—cotton thread is weaker than polyester, for example, and will usually require looser tension in the bobbin case. Depending on the thread and its thickness, sometimes it is loosened considerably! Use a permanent marker or fingernail polish to mark the cases for different threads and adjust each one accordingly.

Try using a light-weight bobbin thread, such as Superior’s Bottom Line, or a fine lingerie bobbin thread.

Invisible nylon or polyester thread can be used in the bobbin to help with tension issues or difficult thread color decisions. Wind the thread on a metal bobbin, but only wind it half full to prevent stretching. (If you have a manual bobbin winder, also loosen the tension knob on the winder before winding invisible thread.) Loosen the bobbin case tension considerably. If you’d like to use the invisible thread in the needle, you’ll also loosen the top tension by as much as a full turn or more.

Carefully examine the front and back after testing your thread choice; some very fine threads may appear to create bad tension, when in reality, you are just seeing the thread inside the needle’s hole. You should actually be able to feel incorrect tension with your fingernail by running it along the top or bobbin thread; it will make a clicking sound as your fingernail catches on the thread bumps left by imbalanced tension. Large needle holes typically will close up after the first washing, and can sometimes be coaxed closed by running a fingernail over the hole.

Answer 2

How fast or slow you sew shouldn't matter. Did you change anything or take a break between sewing the short sides and the long ones? Re-do what ever you changed to see if that makes a difference.

Generally, here's what I would check for that problem:

1. The bobbin thread: Did you run out? Is it threaded correctly? (Check your manual or inside the light case for a diagram if you're unsure.) Is the bobbin thread wound correctly? (Sometimes something catches and pulls too tight but you can just rewind it onto a new bobbin.) Is the bobbin tension correct? (Sometimes it gets nudged or little hands try to "help".)

2. The top thread: Is it threaded correctly? Does the tension need to be changed? Is the needle bent or blunt? Is the thread feeding off the spool correctly? (Oddly I've found that if I don't have the little circle of felt under my spool of thread it feeds strangely. A snippet of fabric works in a pinch.)

3. Lint in the bobbin case: If you have the tools that came with the machine you should have a short screwdriver and a brush that may have a pointy end. These make cleaning lint and dust out of the bobbin case a lot easier. But you can disassemble as much as you can and clean it with or without these.

After that I run out of options and take the machine in to be serviced. However, around here that can cost $75 almost making it cheaper to get a new machine.

Answer 3

You might want to check your thread- did you use different thread on the top verses the bottom? Sometimes this is the problem. My best guess is- your upper tension. Did you fool with it? readjust tension see if it helps.