Why is my fish tank water foggy??

Question

It is a 20gallong freshwater tank, only 2 fish at the moment, been set up for about 2 months. Yesterday I put in Algae Destroyer, Ick Clear (I believe the fish have Ick), put a new BioFilter in the pump and pH Correct (pH and Buffer is low). There are live plants in the tank. Today it is very foggy, did I go too far yesterday?

I have been doing 2 gallon water changes twice a week, just srapped the side of the tank for algae.

The Algae destroyer says will keep freshwater tanks clean and clear, lol,its doing a good job.

The whole Biofilter. There is a filter and a biofilter in my pump (Whisperer).

The cloud is white.

So the pH isnt really that important? It is not very low, but low.

All levels are fine, I tested it this morning cause I was freaking out but it is the same as always (everything fine with low pH and Buffer).

Answer 1

The problem is that you replaced the bio filter and with it you removed the beneficial bacteria your tank needs. Since you have a low fish load in a fair sized tank, just wait it out. It will reestablish in the filter and the haze will clear. In the future don;t replace the bio filter unless it's really warn out and then only if you have planned in advance to take care of the problems.

I wouldn't attempt to change the pH unless you have very delicate fish that really require the special attention. Most fish will adjust to whatever pH you have.

I also would say don't use the algae destroyer, it does more harm than good. If you have an algae problem, be very care full of how much you feed and keep the light off as much as possible. That will clear up the majority of aglae problems within a week or so.

Also, increase your water changes. You should be replaceing about 5 gallons once a week. This will go far in keeping the algae down and the fish healthy.

MM

Answer 2

foggy how? what colour is the fog?
what parts of the biofilter did you replace? did you leave the parts that have the good bacteria? the filter media? the filter media shouldn't be replaced very often, if you get rid of your good bacteria the tank will start to cycle again.

you may be experiencing a bacterial bloom, if the fog is white, as you have added a lot of different bits to the tank, got the tank all confused hehe! if so, this will gradually clear of it's own accord, i would test the water levels (ammonia, nitrate, nitrite etc) just in case.

with these things it's best to do it one at a time, rather than all at once. especially if you're treating the fish for ick.

why are you correcting the pH? is it that off? correcting pH isn't recommended as after the water change each week it'll go back to it's original ph anyway, and a flutating pH like that will really stress out the fish, and a stressed out fish gets prone to diseases, like ick. if you have a strange pH (really high or really low) maybe just get fish that like it acidic or alkaline instead?

edit: well ph is important, but it should simply define what fish will thrive in your tank, if it's low, african cichlids won't survive and neither will snails, but most tetras like it quite soft so they'll love it!

what fish do you have in your tank at the moment? i don't like liquid algae destroyer things, i don't like putting unnecessary chemicals in my tank. if they're compatible with your current fish, when your tank is clear and healthy again, and covered in algae, you could get a little trio team of otocinclus to clear your tank of algae instead, they do a damn fine job! or look into other reasons why you're getting algae, like too much light or too much ferts for your live plants.

Answer 3

we used to do water changes every week and found that doing this the water was always foggy! now we do a water change every 2 weeks or maybe 3 and for some reason our tanks always CLEAR! and our fish are fine :) p.s dont over feed them this can cause misty water too!

Answer 4

A white fog could indicate a bacteria bloom. Beneficial bacteria is necessary for the tank. Take a sample of your tank water to the local pet store and have it tested (they usually do this for free). They can help you from there.

Answer 5

You killed off any beneficial bacteria that were in your filter.

As long as you follow the instructions on the products you're using all you need to do is cycle your tank again.

Just keep an eye on your fish to make sure they're not acting funny.

Answer 6

it could be the algae cleaner you put in the tank. I used some algae cleaner twice, both times it left a yellowish cloud in the water that took a few days to disapear. If you havnt allready, look the brand you bought up on the interent and see if it is noraml for it to cause the cloudiness. it shure aint from the amount of fish you have! your filter may not have been "broke in" enough to absorb the debries and it may have been the water you added. It could have been adding all the things at the same time but i have added ick treatment, water treatment and new air tubes inside the tank at the same time and nothing happened.

Answer 7

Well...you need to clean up the tank quick!or your fish will die.The water probably is affected by the plants so i think you should give them away. Make sure you clean the tank more often!If you're not sure, ask for a veterinarian's advice.

Answer 8

you probaly did... what you need to do is take the fish and plants out and clean the tank before it kills your fish... then go get some chlor out so it will take away the chlorine and put all the stuff in there as you had before.. If all else fails, go see a fish expert!!Korndizzle

Answer 9

There could be a number of things going on. I'll explain:

There are a number of problems leading to your tank being cloudy . Your PH could be low due to the water you are using to fill the tank. Email me and I will explain. QUIT using algae killer. This too will kill your plants. That is the worst thing you can do.

All too often too many new fish owners make the same common mistakes. Did you wash your tank out properly prior to installing? Did you wash your gravel thru a strainer (and I don't mean just rinse it off)? These are the two leading cause for cloudy water.

Your tank is not cycled properly. See web page.
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/biologicalcycle/a/nitrogencycle.htm

Your biggest issue now isn't the cloudy water; it's the ammonia spike that will soon occur (if it hasn't already), followed by elevated nitrites. Both could result in the loss of some or all of your fish. I'd strongly recommend that you become familiar with the Nitrogen cycle, so you are aware of what will be happening in the upcoming weeks.
You should begin testing your water right away for ammonia and take appropriate steps to keep it below lethal levels. Hang in there; once you get your tank through the initial cycle the cloudy water problem will clear up
Do you or are you using a gravel siphon to clean the bottom when doing water changes? (Sorry forgot it is only 7 days old) Did you rinse out your filter and pads prior to installing them?

If you did not rinse the gravel well enough you can do one of two things, stir up the gravel in the tank really well. This will cause all the "dirt" particles to float in your tank. Keep the filter running and do a 20% water change. As long as your water "quality" is fine, do this every other day until the water is clear. Each time, be sure to rinse your filter out as well.
Adding an air your bubble want does nothing for the fish or the water. Dissolved O2 comes from the water itself moving. Bubblers move very little water there for add very little to no Dissolved O2 to your tank.

Do your water change every other day (I know pain in the butt)

It could be an algae bloom or diatoms:
Algae are mostly-photosynthetic organisms that sometimes resemble plants but are not plants, having no true roots, stems or leaves. Algae grow in freshwater and saltwater. Saltwater algae are sometimes referred to as "seaweed." Like plants, algae require light and nutrients to grow. We supply plenty of both in our aquariums, with several hours of aquarium lighting a day and nutrients like nitrates and phosphates from fish waste.

Algae come in many forms. There are microscopic, one-celled algae, filamentous algae that resemble hair, algae that grow in sheets, and macroalgae that look like plants. There are even algae that live inside the outer integument ("skin") or calcium shell of some corals, anemones, and other sessile invertebrates called zooxanthellae. There are slimy-looking algae that are often not algae at all, but a colony of primitive photosynthetic organisms known as cyanobacteria. There are also very hard-to-remove little dots of green that sometimes grow on aquarium panels which also are not algae, but diatom or radiolarian colonies (microscopic, one-celled, animals with hard shells) with algae incorporated in their matrix. With all that said, let us answer some common questions right up front:

Algae growth is inevitable in an aquarium.
Algae consume nutrients in the aquarium that if allowed to accumulate, are harmful to fish. Algae can be a good thing.
The presence of green algae in an aquarium indicates a healthy environment for fish.
There is absolutely no way to completely prevent algae from growing in an aquarium, without killing the other life in the tank.
Chemicals should never be used to control the growth of true algae in an aquarium, and should only be used in rare circumstances to control cyanobacteria.
Correcting a severe algae problem requires time and patience.
Natural methods of controlling algae are the best and most effective.

Algae removal from the tank panels can be done on an as-needed basis, but no more than once a week. Removing algae involves either correcting negative water conditions to control or slow excessive algae growth, or an age-old process known as "elbow grease" (scrubbing it off!). Algae removal in an aquarium should be done only when necessary. We have seen many aquariums where daily removal of algae resulted in fish that were so stressed, most had diseases and were dying. You should never remove all of the algae from your tank. Allowing some algae to grow in the aquarium can be beneficial to the aquatic environment. When algae is removed from aquarium side panels, care should be taken to select an algae scrubber that will not hurt the finish of an aquarium. Be careful not to get gravel caught in an algae scrubbing pad where it can scratch the aquarium. Never use household cleaning pads to remove algae. They contain fungicides that kill fish.

Your first mistake is boiling the water. Boiling water consentrates the nitrates in it causing algae to grow even faster. However, I've never heard of it growing within an hour Wow!

First, test the water you are filling up your tank with. Many public water supplies (our homes) have a concentration of nitrates at around 7ppm or higher. (Bottled water is no better).

This could be the start of your problem.
Be sure your tank is not within direct or indirect lighting such as a window or in a room where the lights are on constantly. Is you tank near a heat source. Sometimes we do not take into consideration a fishtank is near a heat register which can and does add additional temperature changes to your tank.

Did you clean the filter as well? Be sure the entire filter is cleaned and free of algae.

Use a razor or scraper and gently scrape all sides of your tank. Clean your gravel and return it to the tank as well. DO NOT wash the gravel in the tank. The residues of the algae will remain.

Since you have NO FISH I am assuming, use cold water to start your tank. Algae likes heat and light. Using cold water will prohibit growth. Allow your tank to run bringing it to room temperature. Then you can plug in your heater allowing your tank to run.

If you have a stick on thermometer, get yourself a floating one. The stick on thermometers pick up ambient air temperatures from OUTSIDE the tank and can be up to 10 degrees off. DON"T trust them. Try keeping your tank at 72 for a couple of days.

You can also purchase phosphorus pads for around $2.00 at your local pet store. These can be cut to fit with your filter and remove large amounts of phosphorus. These can be reused over and over just remember to rinse them out well when you clean your tank.

Test your water. Since you have not gone thru the cycle process allow your tank to run. This should really help with the algae. If you find your water quality is all your tank isn't near a heat or light source, ok but still getting algae turn the temperature down or off and let it run. You will want to scrape the sides of the tank and do a water change no more than 20% every other day. This should only be done if the algae returns in a heavy form.

If you need any more help, you can im or email me.

Now about ich:

Is it white spot disease or is it Ich? You need to know the difference between the two since they are treated differently.

Cryptocaryoniasis, White Spot Disease or Marine Ich is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans. Although Cryptocaryon becomes a parasitic organism at one stage in its life cycle like Oodinium and Brooklynella do, and it progesses less rapidly than these other ich diseases, in a closed aquarium system it can reach overwhelming and disasterous numbers just the same if it is not diagnosed and treated upon recognition.

Unlike Oodinium and Brooklynella that typically attack the gills first, which allows these ich diseases to advance into life-threatening levels quickly as they go unnoticed, Cryptocaryon usually appears at the onset as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, and when the organisms become parasitic, it is then that they move inwards to the gills. Because crypto is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, this makes it much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control.

Aside from the appearance of the white spots, fish will scratch against objects in an attempt to dislodge the parasites, and rapid respiration develops as tomonts, mucus, and tissue debris clogs the gills. Fish become listless, refuse to eat, loss of color occurs in patches or blotches as the trophonts destroy the pigment cells, and secondary bacterial infections invade the lesions caused by the trophonts.

Although copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate crypto organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not as effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish. A combination of freshwater and formalin treatments adminstered by means of dips, baths, and prolonged treatment over a period of time in a QT is recommended

Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if Cryptocaryon is not eradicated from the main aquarium, which can be accomplished by keeping the tank devoid of any fish for at least 4 weeks. For fish-only aquariums hyposalinity can be applied, and to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, elevate the tank temperature to 85 degrees for 10 days to 12 days. For treating reef tanks, FishVet No-Ich Marine, Ruby Reef Kick-Ich, and Chem-Marin Stop Parasites are Cryptocaryon specific remedies that are said to be "reef safe". Several days prior to returning fish to the main aquarium, clean all filtering equipment, change any filtering materials, and do a water change.

Remember to remove all filters media and turn off protein skimmers when treating for any types of Ich.

Although many over-the-counter remedies contain the general name Ich or Ick, carefully read the product information to be sure it is designed to specifically target and treat "Cryptocaryon"

Brooklynella hostilis - these protozoa reproduce asexually by means of simple binary fission through conjugation, which is why they are able to multiply so much more rapidly than Cryptocaryon (White Spot), and Oodinium (Velvet Ich), and why it can kill fish within a few days and even hours upon recognition

Most similar symptomatically to Oodinium, this too is a parasite that primarily attacks the gills first. At the onset fish may scrap up against objects, rapid respiration develops, and fish often gasp for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Fish become lethargic, refuse to eat, and colors fade, but the most noticeable difference that sets Brooklynella apart from Oodinium is the heavy amount of slime that is produced. As the disease progresses a thick whitish mucus covers the body, usually starting at the head and spreading outward, skin lesions appear, and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections to arise.

Suggestions range from copper, malachite green and other remedies, with some recommended being used in conjunction with formaldehyde. However the general consensus is these types of medications are either largely ineffective or do not work at all, and that the best and most effective treatment for Brooklynella is formaldehyde alone. Typically a standard 37% formalin solution (shop & compare prices) is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container, initially all fish are given a quick dip or a prolonged bath, followed by continued treatment and care in a QT. Of course the longer fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this "disease". Whether to administer a dip or a bath to start with is something you will have to determine yourself, but there's a very simple way to do this.

Since these are Free swimming parasites which are in watersources, come attached to our fish etc. The only way to ensure NO ICH is to get a UV Sterilizer and addit to the tank. The UV Sterilizer kills the free swimming forms of various ich and other parasites.

your tank in short could be foggy due to over medication.