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Wave effects
- As a wave grows, it becomes too high to support itself, and the crest over-balances and forms a mass of foam and spray (surf).

On the shore you can observe two wave types:

pounding or eroding wave - where the main force of the water strikes the shore, usually where there is deep water offshore.
spilling or depositing wave - where it is shallow offshore and the wave spills over gently, the slow speed and friction means the sand being transported is dropped.

Motion in the Sea -- Tides



tides continuously raise and lower the sea surface, sometimes as much as several meters -- this requires large amounts of energy to move the water
that energy is supplied as a result of the gravitational pull of the moon and sun and the rotations of the earth, moon, and sun; these rotations produce a centrifugal force which balances the gravitational forces, so that the planets do not fly away from or crash into each other
the gravitational forces that contribute to tides were first described by Newton; Newton's law of gravitation states that every particle of mass in the universe attracts every other particle of mass with a force that is proportional to the product of the two masses and inversely proportional to the square of the distance between the two masses:
F = G *



where G is the gravitational constant, M1 and M2 are the 2 masses, and d is the distance between them
for spherical objects, the entire mass can be considered to be at the object's center of gravity and the distance d is measured between the centers of the two masses; thus even though the mass of the sun is greater than that of the moon, the gravitational force it exerts is less than that of the moon because it is farther away (it is 46% that of the moon)
centrifugal forces are supplied by gravitational attraction between two orbiting bodies -- this force keeps the planets from flying off in a straight line
as two bodies orbit together in space, they orbit around their common center of mass
earth's mass is 81 times that of the moon -- therefore the common center of mass is 4,700 km from the earth's center or 1,640 km below the earth's surface (circumference is 12,680 km; radius is 6,340 km -- 6,340 - 4,700 = 1,640 km)
all particles of mass within the earth are subject to the same centrifugal force, regardless of their position
centrifugal forces and gravitational forces are not in perfect balance everywhere on the earth's surface
this occurs because although all particles of mass within the earth are subject to the same centrifugal force, the gravitational force on each particle of mass within the earth varies with its distance from the moon or sun and the orbits of the planets are elliptical, not spherical
on the side of the earth nearest the moon, the moon's gravity is strongest -- this is because the distance from the moon's center to the earth's center is 384,800 km and the earth's diameter is 12,680 km, so a point on the earth's surface nearest the moon is 378,460 km away vs. 391,140 km away for the opposite side of the earth
remember, gravitational force is inversely proportional to the square of the distance: thus, the ratio of the moon's gravitational force between a point nearest the moon and farthest away is 378,4602 divided by 384,8002 or about 1 : 1.034 -- this means that the gravitational force is about 3% greater at the surface nearer the moon
so there is a net excess gravitational force on the side of the earth nearest the moon and a net deficit on the side farthest away
with solid objects, these imbalances are compensated for by changes in pressure gradients; however, water flows in response to the imbalances and these flows create the tides

One means of testing the extent of tidal influence in ancient epi-continental seas is by observing sedimentary structures and successions and interpreting processes and environments. Sedimentary environments are classified according to their tidal range as micro-tidal (0-2 m), meso-tidal (2-4 m) or macro-tidal (>4 m) (Johnson & Baldwin 1996). Tidal range may be broadly approximated from delta morphology and resultant sand-body geometry at a regional scale, and from mud drapes, bi-directional current indicators, flaser bedding and cyclic tidal bundles at the outcrop or locality scale (e.g. Johnson & Baldwin 1996). In the geological record, observations from regional and locality scales must be combined to distinguish micro-, meso- and macro-tidal ranges (Dalrymple 1992). However, this is often a challenging, subjective process and there are few quantitative methods of investigating tidal range (e.g. Klein 1971).

2007-03-06 20:26:36 · answer #1 · answered by sagarukin 4 · 0 0

Tidal waves aren't formed near the shore. They are formed out at sea and gather force as they get closer to land.

2007-03-07 04:23:47 · answer #2 · answered by homer28b 5 · 0 0

EXCELLENT Q MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The alternate rise and fall of the ocean water at regular periods are known as tides and are sometimes also referred as waves.Waves or tides are caused due to the attraction of the sun and moon or extreme geographical conditions.There are two types of tides:
1)SPRING TIDES:They are very high tides and generally cause a lot of destruction and chaos.Eg:Tsunamis etc.They generally occur in the deeper parts of the sea when the sun,moon and the earth are in straight lines,the sun and moon exercise their gravitational pull on the earth thus causing tides.Sometimes they are also caused due to the effect of earthquakes on the nearby coasts.
2)NEAP TIDES:They are low tides and are very helpful to man.They occur at the end of the first and third quarters of every month when the sun ,moon and earth are at right angles the sun and moon weaken each other.This results in the formation of Neap tides on the earth.Neap tides are helpful because they prevent siltation on the coast and help in the formation of lagoons.

Tides dont occur only on the sea shore but also in the deeper parts of the sea

2007-03-07 07:32:16 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

tidalwaves or tsunami are caused in deep sea by high intensity earthquake which shift the earth plates one above the other causing tidal waves .

2007-03-07 04:51:38 · answer #4 · answered by supratik m 4 · 0 0

waves are means to transmit energy, they are always there but they acquire th shape we know them as when they reach the coastal areas and enter shallow waters.
in shallow waters waves begin to rise from the sea bed, wave breaking...

2007-03-07 05:03:15 · answer #5 · answered by blitzkrieg_hatf6 2 · 0 0

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves

2007-03-07 04:24:00 · answer #6 · answered by sadeyzluv 4 · 0 0

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