Help The best cure for ich?

Question

Help The best cure for ich?
I have two blue rams with whits spots like grains of salt. whats the best cure? I just noticed tonight and did a 50 % water change ( I keep water on hand just in case) I also have other fisn I an worried about in the tank 1 african butterlfy, 2 keyholes, 2 other ram and 6Pristella tetras. Thanks for the advice.

Answer 1

Message me on aim at Ow kinggary0 for other advice.
First off you have extremely delicate fish that will respond badly to medicine and increased salt levels. So what you wanna do is increase the temperature slightly, by ich medicine and apply half the directed dosage and perform a 20 percent water change. Never do a 50 percent water change because it will kill the bacterial bed. Dont worry about the ich it wont kill your fish till over 14 days have passed.

Answer 2

If you're looking for a long term fix, the best solution is aquarium salt and a slightly higher than average temperature. I keep mine around 73--but of course species of fish is a very important determining factor. Use only aquarium salt; table salt will kill your fish. The good part is these things are very inexpensive. You more than likely got Ich from another fish you recently introduced, but it can be from unstable water as well, i.e. dirty (not doing 25% changes regularly or overfeeding), or frequent temperature changes. Both easily fixed. Get one of the stick on thermometers, they work great as long as you don't reposition after you stick it on. They're inexpensive also, so buy 2 in case you mess up with the first. Closely monitor your tank until you get a consistent temperature, then mark your heater to remember where you should set the temp gauge. This is great for when you're cleaning or doing water changes. If you have very sick fish, CopperSafe is your best bet for immediate action. One dose lasts all month, but, it's deadly to snails. Make sure you read all the directions on the insert for complete directions and warnings. This is a great product, but used incorrectly is can be very deadly to plants, invertebrates, etc... Melafix is a breakthrough antibacterial remedy that uses a derivative of the Melaleuca (Tea Tree) to treat bacterial infections in fresh and saltwater fish. Rapidly repairs damaged fins, heals open wounds and ulcers, stops mouth fungus, and treats fin and tail rot. Although this isn't used for Ich, it will help your fish recover...think of it as a super vitamin for fish. Well, good luck. Keeping your water quality up will prevent this in the future.

Answer 3

Try using Methylyne Blue... It's what I always use to cure ich that grows on my Oscars and Goldfishes... and when changing your water, make sure the water you use does not come directly from the faucet... let the water stay still and settle in a different container for about 12 hours, before putting it in the aquarium... this will lessen the amount chlorine in the water, which fishes are kinda allergic to... this is "if" you have fresh water fish...

Answer 4

Yes there is ich medicine. There are Cure Ich and Coppersafe, use either one but dose, using half dose. If it calls for 1 capful for ten gallons, then use ½ capful for ten gallons. I don't know what size tank you have, so hopefully this will help.

Answer 5

Personally I like Quick Cure. You an get this at WalMart for about $2. Follow directions on the bottle and remove carbon while treating.

This website offers some other options with salt and raising temperature if you don't want to add chemicals : http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

Answer 6

Is it white spot disease or is it Ich? You need to know the difference between the two since they are treated differently.

Cryptocaryoniasis, White Spot Disease or Marine Ich is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans. Although Cryptocaryon becomes a parasitic organism at one stage in its life cycle like Oodinium and Brooklynella do, and it progesses less rapidly than these other ich diseases, in a closed aquarium system it can reach overwhelming and disasterous numbers just the same if it is not diagnosed and treated upon recognition.

Unlike Oodinium and Brooklynella that typically attack the gills first, which allows these ich diseases to advance into life-threatening levels quickly as they go unnoticed, Cryptocaryon usually appears at the onset as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, and when the organisms become parasitic, it is then that they move inwards to the gills. Because crypto is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, this makes it much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control.

Aside from the appearance of the white spots, fish will scratch against objects in an attempt to dislodge the parasites, and rapid respiration develops as tomonts, mucus, and tissue debris clogs the gills. Fish become listless, refuse to eat, loss of color occurs in patches or blotches as the trophonts destroy the pigment cells, and secondary bacterial infections invade the lesions caused by the trophonts.

Although copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate crypto organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not as effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish. A combination of freshwater and formalin treatments adminstered by means of dips, baths, and prolonged treatment over a period of time in a QT is recommended

Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if Cryptocaryon is not eradicated from the main aquarium, which can be accomplished by keeping the tank devoid of any fish for at least 4 weeks. For fish-only aquariums hyposalinity can be applied, and to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, elevate the tank temperature to 85 degrees for 10 days to 12 days. For treating reef tanks, FishVet No-Ich Marine, Ruby Reef Kick-Ich, and Chem-Marin Stop Parasites are Cryptocaryon specific remedies that are said to be "reef safe". Several days prior to returning fish to the main aquarium, clean all filtering equipment, change any filtering materials, and do a water change.

Remember to remove all filters media and turn off protein skimmers when treating for any types of Ich.

Although many over-the-counter remedies contain the general name Ich or Ick, carefully read the product information to be sure it is designed to specifically target and treat "Cryptocaryon"

Brooklynella hostilis - these protozoa reproduce asexually by means of simple binary fission through conjugation, which is why they are able to multiply so much more rapidly than Cryptocaryon (White Spot), and Oodinium (Velvet Ich), and why it can kill fish within a few days and even hours upon recognition

Most similar symptomatically to Oodinium, this too is a parasite that primarily attacks the gills first. At the onset fish may scrap up against objects, rapid respiration develops, and fish often gasp for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Fish become lethargic, refuse to eat, and colors fade, but the most noticeable difference that sets Brooklynella apart from Oodinium is the heavy amount of slime that is produced. As the disease progresses a thick whitish mucus covers the body, usually starting at the head and spreading outward, skin lesions appear, and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections to arise.

Suggestions range from copper, malachite green and other remedies, with some recommended being used in conjunction with formaldehyde. However the general consensus is these types of medications are either largely ineffective or do not work at all, and that the best and most effective treatment for Brooklynella is formaldehyde alone. Typically a standard 37% formalin solution (shop & compare prices) is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container, initially all fish are given a quick dip or a prolonged bath, followed by continued treatment and care in a QT. Of course the longer fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this "disease". Whether to administer a dip or a bath to start with is something you will have to determine yourself, but there's a very simple way to do this.

Since these are Free swimming parasites which are in watersources, come attached to our fish etc. The only way to ensure NO ICH is to get a UV Sterilizer and addit to the tank. The UV Sterilizer kills the free swimming forms of various ich and other parasites.

Hope this helps

Answer 7

There is treatment for the water you can get it just about anywhere. Walmart-pet stores, it will give you directions on the back.

Answer 8

go to wikipedia. and search water.