My 96 Toyota Tacoma is pulsating on braking AGAIN !?

Question

Ive had the rotors turned 2-3x now. Started after new pads
put on last summer: brake shop says its me + Its Toyota:
if that were the case-it would have warped/pulsated its first
80K of life ! Now -it ONLY pulsates on HIGH speed stops ONLY.
Not ALL stops as last time. Theres room for one more turn. Should I just live with it? Replace pads and rotors? Is a little shimmy normal? Inspection recently (pre shimmy) showed calipers fine, even wear...disscoloration on rotor from heat.
Enough room for 1 turn more if needed.

Ideas?
Is it ok to use good after market parts??
Toyota parts are $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Answer 1

check the rear brakes, too.

My '98 Rodeo has such lousy rear brakes that if the e brake is applied when the vehicle is in motion at all the drums will warp. It's been this way since it was bought new. 80000 miles and I did all the brakes last fall, turned rotors and drums, bought good aftermarket pads and shoes and a few weeks later the drums are warped again, ugh!

I may be done with the Rodeo, because it was smashed last week. Waiting for the estimate.

Good luck with the toyota.

Answer 2

New rotors are your only option if the paulsation keeps on coming back. When a rotor warps, its caused by rapid heating and cooling of the metal. This can cause the metal to distort causing un equal paralellism, which in turn, causes the paulsation. When metal is heated, it tends to have a "memory", meaning, no matter what happens, it will continue to form to that shape until heated and treated again with sufficient heat, which will cause a worse paulsation. When rotors get thinner, they lose some of thier heat disapation quality, which will cause the rotor to heat up quicker and the rotor will gain the unequal paralellism.

After market parts are not evil. They are jsut as good, if not better then OEM. You just have to buy an aftermarket product that meets or excedes OEM quality. Usually, if a part is flawed in some way form a factory standpoint, aftermarket parts will work with that flaw in mind and create something that deals with it, eliminating it, or reducing it. I work in a garage and about 95% of the parts we sell are aftermarket. Aftermarket keeps prices down, and the quality is usually still there, unless a no name, low quality part is bought.

Side note. Brake pads should always be replaced or resurfaced if new rotors or if the rotors have been machined. Also, if the rotor surface is fine, glass smooth, with no ridging or distortions, machining is not nessicary. If the rotor already has a surface that is already broken in, and is in good shape, there is no reason to change that. All machining is for is removing ridges, hot spots/hard spots, runout, and minor unequal paralellism. When a rotor is machined it loses part of its life span. It also creates a micro ridge in the rotor, that may cause the pad to vibrate until seating has occoured, its hard on the pad, and not nessicairly good for the rotor.

Answer 3

Sorry to say but once rotor's warp they'll do it again regardless of reconditioning. The OEM anneal cycle is gone when the rotors warp.. The rotors are too soft now Replace with new Toyota rotors as a first choice. Wagner, EBC, and other Canadian or American will be a best second choice. Shimmy is not normal for any braking system. You may need to have your (2) inner and (two) outer tie rods checked. For best results use new Toyota standard brake pads with the new rotors. Your problem will be solved.

Answer 4

I would change rotors and pads. The rotors have been turned down to much. Aftermarket is fine. Also check caliper slides and bolts, be sure everything moves freely. Check rear brakes as well, if they arent working properly, that will cause the front brakes to work harder. Rear brakes can also cause a pulse. Check out rear brakes as well to see if they are okay

Answer 5

Your rotors are warping from excessive heat. Try replacing your stock rotors with aftermarket "cross drilled" rotors. They won't be that more costly than stock rotors and they help dissipate heat more quickly. That should help solve your situation. One place to look would be "www.summitracing.com" but check around since the price does vary. I replace the stock rotors with cross drilled rotors on every vehicle I own, and I never had a warping problem.

Answer 6

Definitely would not have turned the rotors more than once. You are just wearing them too thin prematurely. I would have tried a different pad type. If it is a fibre type I would go to a mineral type. That's the route I would have gone. Maybe it is the solution for you.
Yeah, and do try aftermarket parts. Many times the only difference is the nameplate.(which you pay for)

Answer 7

Each time you turn them, they will warp even quicker because they keep getting thinner. Buy new ones and they will last, aftermarket is fine.

Answer 8

pads dont stick what squeases pads do brake calibers the piston interior them pushing out each and each time you press peddle an donc eyou launch it could enable off if it doesnt it sticks and pads stay pushed out one is undesirable jack it up sping a tire wil be attentive to