Guinea Pig Question!?

Question

I am a thirteen year old girl, and I am considering getting a Guinea Pig. I would like to be a GREAT care taker. My first question is should I get a boy or girl? I only would like one.
If you have any care taking tips or comments for me...answer!Thanks

Answer 1

get a girl. they are less aggresive, wont ight with eachother and are way more affectionate. my gueiea pig, poppin, warmed right up to us within a week of getting them

also when you get one, pet her every day and experiment to find out how she likes to be petted. if you do she will be much happier and love you much more.

Answer 2

1

Answer 3

Guinea pigs are great, but they can be expensive. Since they are small animals (they are considered exotics in the veterinary field), they require specialized vets with direct experience treating guinea pigs. The vet care is expensive. If the piggy ever gets sick, expect to walk out of the vet with at least a $200 bill. For routine care, expect to spend about $10 a month on bedding (like aspen), at least $10 a month on hay (they need fresh hay every day), and of course he'll need veggies...you can give him things like carrots from your fridge. For start up costs, expect to spend around $50 for a good cage, $10 for a little house to go inside his cage, $5 for a water bottle (I highly suggest ONLY Critter Canteen-it doesn't leak), and $5 or less for a little food bowl.

Since piggies are prone to getting sick, you need to make sure they NEVER have pine bedding (that increases their chance of getting respiratory problems). They should always use just aspen bedding or CareFresh. This is very important to remember. Also, an adult pig should eat Timothy hay NOT Alfalfa. If you go to a pet store, they people that work there will tell you that you can buy alfalfa, but that is not correct.

Finally, I have a male guinea pig, and he is great. Honestly, though, I don't think gender matters much. However, it is really important to do a little research and find out if there is a guinea pig rescue anywhere near you. I do not recommend buying a pig from a petstore, when there are homeless pigs that need a home.

I hope my comments are helpful. I've had guinea pigs most of my life, and I currently have one that is a little over 3. He is in good health, and he is really well socialized. The only real problem he had was mites, but we did eventually treat them successfully.

Answer 4

I've had a guinea pig for five years and he is so adorable! I named him Squirt. I have to tell you that I think it would be best if you did get a girl guinea pig though because I found out that male pigs tend to have more problems with calcium build-up which actually makes them more prone to stones in their bladder. Squirt is still alive and doing well but he has had four surgeries and that's a lot for a guinea pig and 3 out of four of those have been to remove those stones that were too big for him to pass. He actually passed one though. He's a tough a pig though but he's had a rough way to go. He's had more surgeries in his life than I have had in mine. LOL I'm not trying to discourage you though because I've never heard of any other guinea pig going through what he has...he's unique but I still wouldn't trade him for anything. He's a $25 guinea pig that has turned into a $1500.00 one. But most of the time these piggies the only thing they need is food and water. Please give them Timothy hay and not alfalfa because Timothy pellets and hay is much better for them and has less calcium. I always give my piggie romaine lettuce and parsley and carrots too. He loves that stuff. Lots of pigs like apples and stuff too but he's picky. Guinea pigs have the cutest squeak too. They are so adorable! I hope you do get one. You'll love it!

Answer 5

Guinea pigs are great pets. As a child I had them for years. I don't think it mattered much if it were male or female... I would tell you though, they will eat like you can't believe. They have bottom-less guts! So ask a vet how much and what to feed it and stick to that. My first guinea pig pretty much died of obesity because everyone in my house fed it every day. They'll eat anything. Also their teeth are strong and they will knaw through furniture, etc. so watch when you let them out of the cage. Have fun w/your new pet!

Answer 6

it doesnt matter which one u choose they r both great i have had a lot of piggies! they r such great animals. they should have a good size cage and pine bedding is excellent. they should have their cages cleaned once a week and given a bath once a week. give the piggie some oranges like cut an orange up into 4ths and give him one a day. its good vitamin c! they need to be taken out and played with a lot to get used to people and their new environment! if u have anymore questions email me at [e-mail] i have had 5 and right now i have 2. i have had 2 girls and 3 boysand the 2 i have now are both boyz!

Answer 7

I once had a guinea pig too and one odd fact that I read about them is that It is okay if they eat their own poop cause then they get more protein and vitamins from that exited meal.

Answer 8

Hi,
you can find a free download of Bad Piggies here: http://bit.ly/1BDCdIa

Finally the full version is avaiable!
You may think Bad Piggies is a poor copy of the popular PC puzzle game Angry Birds series, but the truth is that is its prequel.
Enjoy it.

Answer 9

Did you know?

Guinea pig body info

Body temperature is 99 - 103°F
Heart rate is 240-350 beats per minute
Respiratory rate is 40-150 breaths per minute
An average adult male weights 900-1200 grams or roughly 2 - 2.5 pounds
An average adult female weighs 700 - 900 grams or roughly 1.5 - 2 pounds
Life span is 4 - 8 years
Guinea pig's teeth are open-rooted, that is they continue to grow
Guinea pigs are strict herbivores.

Your Guinea Pig's Social Life



Above and beyond basic care requirements, many people struggle with knowing the right thing to do to keep their guinea pig (or pigs) happy. Should you have two? What sex? How do you introduce them? Will they get along? What if they don't? What if they fight? What if a companion dies? Do they get bored or lonely? What if you have an unplanned litter? Should you neuter or not?

One Cavy or Two?

Guinea pigs are a social, herd animal. They do better in groups. A pair of guinea pigs is a better option than just one. There are a number of issues to weigh on both sides of the one or two cavy question. Bottom line, the decision for just one is usually the result of what is best for you. The decision for two is usually the result of what is best for the guinea pig. We usually go with what is best for the guinea pigs. If you cannot provide the best possible life for the animals, then perhaps you should consider an animal that would be happier living within your constraints. That may sound tough, but it's worth thinking about. Any responsible rescue will try to guide you to an animal that works well for your situation.

Many people will tell you they have one guinea pig and he or she is just fine, happy as a clam, living out a great life. And that may be, but most of these situations don't have a point of reference for a comparison of that same guinea pig living with or next door to a friend.

On the other hand, if you are adopting a guinea pig from a shelter or some other situation that may have resulted in the death or sub-standard life of that animal, and that animal must live as a single guinea pig due to your circumstances, then should we debate the finer points of how happy that animal is versus how happy it could be? It seems silly at that point. Regardless, we are presenting information to help you make a decision using a combination of the best interests of you and your animal. You need to decide the priorities.

At Cavy Spirit, we have a lot of anecdotal and experiential evidence of guinea pigs being happier living with another guinea pig. What about scientific evidence? See some of the comments below. Basically, even if you have a guinea pig, be it male or female, that cannot get along with another guinea pig, that guinea pig is almost always happier being near another of it's kind, even if separated by a cage wall. There is the rare guinea pig who is happier being a loner, but it is very unusual and definitely not the norm.

Here are some of the issues to think about when deciding whether to get one or two guinea pigs.

The guinea pig pair itself
Is the pair a mature, bonded pair with a known personality? Are you 100% certain of the sex? Remember, pet stores frequently missex animals and knowingly or unknowingly sell a pregnant female or a breeding pair. The more you know about the pair you are considering adopting or buying, the less risk you have of some of the other issues in this list. If you are considering getting two independent guinea pigs who aren't currently living together, then it's just about the same as the next section Adding a 2nd Cavy.

If the pair is young (under 6 months) and same-sex (siblings or otherwise), then you will be risking the fact that they MAY not get along in the future, especially as they progress through adolescence. If you get a male/female pair and the male is neutered or the female is spayed and they are currently living together, it is very rare that they will cease to get along at any point in the future. Any tiffs are usually temporary and they will settle right down again.

While it is a risk that a same-sex pair may stop getting along in the future and it does happen, it is not a common occurrence. However, you should be prepared to deal with it, if it happens.

Adequate cage space
While we publish minimum cage size requirements for 2 guinea pigs as 7.5 square feet (or a 2x3 grid cage), our Cavy Spirit minimum is 10.5 square feet (or a 2x4 grid cage). Even ONE guinea pig needs 7.5 square feet. So, adding a few more square feet for two should be possible in most cases. Two boars should not be housed in less than 10.5 square feet, in our opinion. For more information on cage sizes and ways to provide it, please visit our Guinea Pig Cages web site. (The 2x4 grid cage pictured sits on a 5' x 30" work table.)

What if you need to separate your guinea pigs at any time because they stop getting along? You'll need to make sure that you can provide them both adequate cage space with a common grid wall so that they can be next to each other for company and safe interaction. Ideally, that means a pretty large cage -- a 2x6 grid cage (which requires a 7.5 or 8 foot long table). That cage allows a common grid wall divider down the middle to provide the minimum cage space of 2x3 grids (or 7.5 square feet) per guinea pig. That can be a tall order for many people (15 square feet of cage space). In those circumstances, many people will compromise on cage space (such as the one pictured to the right) and some will try to compensate with additional floor time. A split 2x4 grid cage (photo right) will provide each guinea pig with 5 1/4 square feet of space. That does not meet our minimum but is still almost 2 sq feet larger than the typical "large" SuperPet cage.

Additional cost
Many people think that if you have two guinea pigs, you will spend twice as much in time, cleaning, and maintenance. Not so. It just doesn't work that way. One might experience a cost increase of maybe 25% by adding one guinea pig.

Another cost that might occur, which is very hit and miss, is vet care. You do increase the chances that you may have a medical problem down the line. And while some vet expenses can be significant, most are not. However, if you travel down the ill-advised path of breeding, count on more vet bills. And if you happen to buy or adopt a pregnant guinea pig, be aware that you also have an increased likelihood of required vet care.

In general, a non-breeding pair of guinea pigs does not cost much more, in time or money, than a single guinea pig.

Behavior and Health
We've been talking about the "happiness" of the guinea pig. We use the term loosely. We are not intentionally applying human emotions to the animal. We are using the term as a general way to describe a better state of health and behavior of the animal.

Many guinea pig forums abound with woeful stories of people whose guinea pig seems bored, listless, won't wheek or talk, pop, run around, etc. Guinea pigs interact with each other with their acute sense of smell and hearing as well as speech and touch. To remove the ability for a social animal to interact with another can dramatically impact the health and overall emotional state of the animal. Not only that, you as the caretaker miss out on all kinds of fun and interesting behavior.

Also, if you happen to get a very young guinea pig from a pet store, as is so typical of pet store guinea pigs (they are usually barely weaned), that guinea pig hasn't been taught much yet from any other guinea pigs. Some guinea pigs will not eat fresh food you may offer because they don't recognize it as food and aren't used to it.

An amusing, but standard, guinea pig behavior is their friendly but serious competition for food. Some people have had a single guinea pig who is very fussy and finicky about what kinds of food it will eat. When a friend is added, that fussy guinea pig usually can't stand to see the other guinea pig eating something that they are not, and will eat it too. In this way they help each other keep their diet varied, balanced and healthy. They play together. They chase each other. They usually snuggle together. They keep each other healthy and happy.

Imagine being abandoned on another planet with no other human to see or talk to. Just some giant alien creature who tries to kindly interact with you every so often. Well, for some us, that would be cool and fun. But for most of us, wouldn't it be nicer to have someone to share your life with? That's what it means to be a social animal.

Bonding with You versus the The Other Guinea Pig
A common concern we hear about getting two rather than one guinea pig is that the guinea pig won't "bond with me" if he or she has a friend.

Generally speaking, this is not a concern. Guinea pigs are not dog-like in their behavior and bonding with humans. Please don't have those expectations or you are likely to be disappointed. Guinea pigs all have their own personalities. Some are more friendly than others. Over time (and it can take quite a bit of time with guinea pigs) they will learn to trust you and recognize your scent and sounds. In this process, it doesn't make much difference if they have a friend or not. A friend does make a difference to them when you are not around.



Adding a 2nd Cavy

You already have a guinea pig and are thinking about getting a friend for him or her. You've reviewed the issues above and decided that you can provide the proper cage space and resources needed.

What additional considerations do you need to think about?

What kind of guinea pig to get?
Male or female? Young or old? First and foremost, you want to make sure that you do NOT end up with a breeding pair or a pregnant female. Not convinced? Think you may want babies? Please don't. Please read the Breeding page first.

If you have a male, you'll want another male. If you have a female, you'll want another female. This is the easiest path to take, since it does not risk surgery to neuter or spay.

Have you heard that males fight? Did you know that females may fight, too? Did you know that some males and females also won't get along? Guinea pigs all have their own personality. It's a matter of matching up personalities. Many, many people have pairs or trios of boars who get along great. We match up boars all the time.

We try to match up a dominant with a subordinate guinea pig. It helps to have a feel for their personalities. What if you have no idea about the personalities? An older with a younger guinea pig is a good option (larger to smaller one). They usually establish a natural hierarchy with the younger one being subservient to the older one. You just need to be careful that you don't have a very feisty younger guinea pig with a very laid back older guinea pig. In that case, the younger one may challenge the older one's position as 'alpha' guinea pig (or top guinea pig or the boss guinea pig).

Please note: Males living with males (and no females) do NOT need to be neutered! It will NOT change their behavior.

When you pair up a young guinea pig with any other guinea pig (young or old), there is a chance that as he or she goes through their adolescent period (3-5 months), they will challenge the other guinea pig for top guinea pig position. This can lead to some fighting. Most of the time they figure it out for themselves. Occasionally, the fighting is extreme and they must be permanently separated. Again, remember this can happen with ANY guinea pig pair, male/male or female/female.

Where to get the guinea pig?
Rescue, shelter, private person, breeder, or pet store? The best option is to go to someone who has a very good understanding of the personalities of their guinea pigs. Someone who is used to pairing up guinea pigs. This is usually a rescue. For additional options see the More Resources page on the Cavy Rescue site.

What to do when you get the new guinea pig home?
Quarantine first! Introductions later.

What if it doesn't work out, they don't get along?
Please see the first section! You need to be prepared for this possibility or don't attempt it. What if the introductions don't work out? You've given it many weeks of effort, but the two guinea pigs won't get along without serious fighting. You'll need to provide them a cage space where they can see each other, but not get to each other. Ideally, this is a very large cage with a common grid wall.

What if we made a mistake with the SEX?
For some reason you now have a fertile male/female pair? Now what? This can be a BIG PROBLEM depending on your circumstances!

First and foremost, if you find yourself in this situation, separate the guinea pigs IMMEDIATELY! Separate them even if you think the female is already pregnant. Why? First, she may NOT be pregnant yet. Second, females have a two-horned uterus and while rare can get pregnant in the second uterus while carrying a litter in the other (the condition is called superfetation). Third, if she is very definitely pregnant, you probably don't know when she will deliver. The female goes into heat in a big way within an hour or two after delivering. There is a very high likelihood that she will conceive again if the male is present.

Now the question becomes what to do. Do you keep the male and female separate in a large cage with a common wall? Or do you get the male neutered so they can be together? This is another big decision. See the section on neutering.

Do NOT attempt to allow them to be together, supervised or not. Some people think they can time the estrus cycle of the female and remove the male only during fertile times. Some people think it is okay to supervise "play time" and push the boar away from the female when he tries to mount her. DON'T DO IT! Those who play with fire will get burned and have been burned -- at the expense of the animals.


Adding a 3rd Cavy




You already have two females?
You can add another female or a neutered male. If one female is very dominant, you'll want to try to find a less dominant female.

You already have two males?
You can add another male. A younger male is usually a good idea if the pair is adult. If the pair is still young, adding an older male usually works and a young one could work but perhaps not as well as an adult.

You already have one female and one neutered male?
You can add another female.


Our advice is based on our experience of combining guinea pigs. The bottom line is one boar per group of females. We have not been able to successfully introduce a second boar to one or more females. It's a combination that rarely works. We have heard of a few cases of this working, but they have been in larger herds which have a significant degree of free-range space. They do not live in traditional cages, large or otherwise.

According to Social and Behavioral Requirements of Experimental Animals, "Guinea pigs live in groups of five to ten individuals in the wild (Sutherland and Festing, 1987) and thrive under group housing, although it is unlikely that two or more sexually mature males will live together without incident unless they have been together since birth." Remember the comment here is about mature males living together with females present. "In their natural environment, guinea pigs exhibit a strong herd or family orientation, and this should be maintained in the laboratory setting, if at all possible. The one boar per harem arrangement is the recommended procedure in breeding colonies. Guinea pigs should not be housed singly . . ."

When adding another guinea pig to a group, ALL social dynamics within the group will likely change. The social order will be disrupted and need to be resorted out from scratch.

Also, any time you remove a guinea pig from a group for any length of time, say a few days to a week, they usually go back through the entire social ordering process again. In other words, it's like doing introductions all over again.



Neuter or Spay?

Males living with males (and no females) do NOT need to be neutered! It will NOT change their behavior. It will NOT make them less aggressive. Their personality remains intact after neutering.

Any surgery for any animal risks the life of that animal. In addition, it is pretty difficult to find a competent vet who has a done quite a few cavy neuters with a high success rate. The risk factor for neutering cavies is significantly higher than cats or dogs.

If you don't already have a male and female, then get a same-sex pair and avoid the neutering issue all together.

While we are very aware of some deaths of males due to neutering, some of it is due to improper post-surgical care, which can be prevented. Some of these neuter deaths are because of missed infections picked up after the surgery was done. On the other hand, the number of ACCIDENTAL pregnancies due to having a fertile male and female in the same house is quite high. And don't forget, a pregnancy risks the life of the sow as well. So, we believe you need to look at the big picture.

Do you have total control over keeping your fertile guinea pigs separated? If you have kids, the answer is probably no. If you have anyone who is permitted to play with, watch, or take care of the guinea pigs, then the answer is no. We have heard story after story of the kids who let them play together for just a minute. The babysitter who didn't know any better. Even the parents who didn't know any better!

So, which ever decision you make, be informed. Be responsible. For more technical information on neutering, see our page on neutering. And be aware that after a guinea pig is neutered, he must not be put back with the female for 3 to 4 weeks. He may still have live sperm until that time. Also, a guinea pig should be at least 3 or 4 months old and at least 650 grams of body weight before being neutered.

What about spaying the female? Spaying a female will prevent ovarian cysts and related problems which may develop later in life. However, it is generally not recommended to spay as a preventative measure. A spay is a much more invasive, risky procedure. Even vets who routinely do cavy neuters will shy away from doing spays because they don't do enough of them. To prevent pregnancy, it makes more sense to have the male neutered than the female spayed. Sometimes there are other circumstances which can change that decision. The same applies to spays on finding a very competent vet with a high success rate.



Additional reading on Spay/Neuter:

"Should I Neuter My Boar?"
by Vicki Palmer Nielsen of the Jack Pine Guinea Pig Rescue
Warns on the dangers of neutering. Advocates keeping fertile pairs separated and not doing unnecessary surgery.



Quarantine

When you bring home a new friend for an existing guinea pig, or you get two guinea pigs from two different sources, then BEFORE you try putting them together, you need to keep them apart for two to three weeks to make sure the new guinea pig does not have any medical problems which could be transmitted to the other.

If one is sick or has any parasites or fungal infections, you'll want to treat that one first, rather than risk spreading the condition to the other guinea pig.

Quarantine means keeping the guinea pigs in two different rooms, which of course requires two separate cages. If you bought a pet store cage and have since realized it's too small, you can use the cage for quarantine until the pigs can be introduced.

You should handle the new guinea pig last. You should wash your hands after handling the guinea pig. It's a good idea to keep a smock in the room with that guinea pig. That way you have less risk of transmitting parasites or other things on your clothing.

Examine your new guinea pig very closely and carefully while in quarantine. Look for signs of mites (scratching and hair loss). Mange mites are not visible to the naked eye. Look for lice, fleas, fungus (ringworm). Look for eye or nasal discharge, excessive sneezing, wheezing, loud breathing and more. If you suspect your new guinea pig is not well, please take it to a good vet as soon as possible. Do not delay. Guinea pigs can go downhill fast.

Typical problems with pet store guinea pigs are URIs (Upper Respiratory Infections), mange mites, fungal infections, scurvy, and pregnancy!


Introductions




Have patience, take your time, always on neutral territory, and don't give up too soon. Brief words of wisdom for introducing guinea pigs.

You've honored the quarantine period, your new piggie is healthy and you are ready to introduce him or her to your other guinea pig(s).

What you don't want to do is plop the new guinea pig into your existing guinea pig's cage. Never try to introduce guinea pigs in one of their cages. Be prepared. This may happen in one afternoon or it may take months!

At Cavy Spirit we call this process the Dating Game. Our system works well for us. We are going to tell you about our system as well as suggestions from others.



The Cavy Spirit Dating Game

The initial introduction is done to determine how fast or prolonged the process will be. We also use this process when we are trying to find a good mate for someone else's guinea pig.

Get a large bath towel or two.

Put the towels on the couch (neutral, unfamiliar territory).
Spread them out over the middle of the couch.

Each person holding a pig, sits at opposite ends of the couch.
Make sure the towels are between you and there is a good amount of space (it helps to have a big couch!). Floor works, too. Keep kids quiet and out of reach. No other distractions.

Let the pigs find each other on their own time.
You may need to nudge them in the right direction. Have another towel handy to toss on the pigs if you need to separate them.

Let the games begin!
More often than not, pet owners want to break up guinea pigs exhibiting normal dominant behavior. Everyone looks worried and asks, "Is that normal?" And be prepared to answer the question, "Mommy, what are they doing?"

How long and what next?
Usually, the first 15 minutes is just getting acclimated to the new surroundings and the idea that there is another guinea pig there. It's the next 15 to 30 minutes that can get interesting. The nice thing about being on the couch is it makes it easy for them to run to you when they get uncomfortable. But, keep your interactions and interference to an absolute minimum.

Some guinea pigs will get along just great. Some will decide on peaceful co-existence right from the beginning. Some will act like long lost buddies or lovers! But, most will go through the standard dominance dance getting to know each other and trying to figure out who is going to be the boss of who. They must and will decide this. It may not be now, but it will get decided.



When to separate them? Serious blood is drawn or a wound is inflicted. Some nipping or minor biting can be quite normal. Even little tufts of hair in the mouth can be normal.



Some standard dating game behavior is (any sex combination):


Safe, non-combative, dominance behavior
Rumblestrutting
Butt sniffing
Butt nudging
Chasing
Butt dragging (they are leaving their scent)
Mounting (any which way: rear mount, head mount, side mount, flying leap mount!)
Nose face-offs (higher in the air wins, one must lower their nose to be subservient to the other)
Teeth chattering: a little (signal of dominance)
Raised hackles (hair on the back of the neck and along the spine)

Posturing for possible attack, battle for dominance is escalating
Teeth chattering: sustained (signal of anger, aggression, warning)
Nips, light bites, may result in little tufts of fur in their teeth
Wide yawn, but this is no yawn, they are showing their teeth
Snorting (like a strong puff or hiss)

These behaviors may sound serious and they should be monitored VERY CLOSELY, BUT do NOT separate the pigs exhibiting this behavior, yet. This is when the average pet owner loses it and pulls the pig out. Most of the time, this behavior will continue for a while until one backs down.

Fighting with intent to harm
Bite attacks are no longer warning nips, they are lunges with intent to harm.
Combination of raised hackles, loud and angry teeth chattering, rumblestrutting in place with the head staying in one position while facing the other guinea pig doing the same thing. Usually a signal of a biting attack. But they may back down before they engage.
Both pigs rear up on their haunches, face to face. This is a clear, brief signal of their intent to launch full attacks at each other. Separate if possible before the attack.
Full battle. The pigs are locked together in a vicious ball of fur. This is very serious. Separate immediately, but be careful. Throw a towel over them and use a dustpan or something other than your hand to separate them. Unintended bites from their very sharp incisors can cause serious damage.

The best indicator to watch for on when to separate guinea pigs is the posturing of the nipping and bite attacks. If that gets more serious, that's the time to separate them. If blood is drawn, it's definitely time to stop that session. Hopefully, you can separate your guinea pigs before any serious harm is done.

We have only witnessed one full onslaught battle and that was not during an introduction, but did result in a serious injury to one of the guinea pigs. It was a battle between a father and son over the sows during floortime (one of our social experiments that bombed). We have seen two sows raise up on their haunches, but the actual attacks were minor. They were able to sort out their hierarchy.

We have probably gone through the dating game process close to 100 times! To date, over the course of several years, NONE of the guinea pig pairs that we have matched up and adopted out have ceased getting along, and that includes many boar pairs and some boar trios. (We do periodic follow ups on our adoptions.)

The "Piggies who Bathe Together, Stay Together" Game

Here is another technique used for harder-to-introduce couples or trios, especially when adding a new male to a bonded male pair. You'll only want to try this method if you are already competent at handling guinea pigs and giving baths.
When you are ready to "introduce" the three, take everybody out and put them on the floor. Lay a blanket down and enclose it so they can't escape. Make it big enough so they have room to roam around. They will all notice each other.


Watch their behavior closely. You will notice some things right away. If they hate each other, it's apparent pretty quickly. There will be teeth chattering along with more serious fighting. They may leap at each other and start fighting (it looks like a levitating mass of squiggling piggies). This is bad. Make sure you have an oven mitt or dust pan or a towel you can wrap around your hand to separate them. DO NOT USE YOUR BARE HANDS. Fighting pigs will bite ANYTHING, and very very hard. It will draw blood. Even if they are not actively fighting but are in "fight mode" they can bite. Make sure no small children are around where they could try to stop it and get bitten. See the dating game behavior above to help you determine if they should be immediately separated.

If nobody fights right away, you can relax a bit. They may rumble around and mount each other. This is all normal. You'll notice a lot of bum-sniffing and chasing. This is ok. If they start fighting, refer to the above.

The last option is the best -- instant acceptance. They will run up to each other, sniff, maybe mount a few times, and then settle down to groom the other pigs' ears or something. This is fantastic, but unfortunately doesn't happen all that often right from the start.


If the pigs fight, or fight after a little while, give them all a bath. You can put all three pigs in the bathtub (keep the oven mitt handy) and run about 1 inch of warm water. Soap them all up at the same time with something that smells good. Use a small-animal shampoo that is kitten or bunny-safe (not a baby or human shampoo). The pigs will be freaked out about the bath and will forget that they are mad with each other. Don't get any water in the eyes, nose, or ears. Rinse them off carefully and well making sure that you get all the soap out.


Put them on some towels on the bathroom floor. Dry them off as much as possible with a towel first. Then finish drying them with a hairdryer. Make sure it's on the WARM setting and never get it too close to their skin. Make sure your hand is always on their fur so you can feel the level of heat you are giving them. They will run away. Keep chasing them around a bit until all three pigs are completely dry. When you're done, they will all smell exactly the same.


Try the introductions again, this time on a new blanket that's just out of the dryer or is completely clean. They shouldn't fight. The bathroom scare will hopefully cause them to bond together, and they will group together out of necessity.


If the introductions go well, clean the two boars' cage very thoroughly. Use a vinegar and water solution to clean the Coroplast and throw all other items (pigloo, food dish, etc.) in the dishwasher. Clean any other hidey boxes or toys. You want to remove ALL scents from the cage. When you replace all the items, move them around so that nothing is in the same place as it used to be.


Then put all three boars in the new cage. They will feel that it's an entirely new home and won't be so territorial about defending it against the new boar.





Keeping the Peace



. . . more to come . . .


Promoting Happiness




Guinea pigs need exercise and stimulation above and beyond their cage environment, even if you have provided a good-sized cage. There are suggestions for toys, floor time, cage accessories, bedding, hay, and of course, easy-to-make large cages on the Guinea Pig Cages website.

None of it has to cost very much. There are lots of ideas and sources for inexpensive solutions to just about everything.



Unplanned Litters




If you end up with a pregnant guinea pig, first be sure to remove the boar. Find cage advice above. You will need at least two good size cages or a properly large cage sectioned off.

If you have decided to get the male neutered (if you have one), then assuming he meets the age, weight, and health criteria, the best time is while the female is still pregnant. That way, he can have a full month of proper wait time away from the female while she is pregnant or nursing.

Boars are okay with babies for a couple of a weeks. They don't eat them, attack them, or trample them. In fact, while a neutered male is in his "wait" period (3-4 weeks after surgery before he can join the mother), the babies can help keep him company. While the babies are very young, a common grid wall is fine. They are small enough to go through the holes as they please. After about two weeks (plus or minus, you have to be the judge), they start to get to be too big to go through the grids. Then, depending on the status of the babies, males -- okay to visit the dad, females, not -- you can create an opening in between the grids which allows the babies to go through, but not the adults, or just block them off with another grid staggered and secured with zip ties so that the holes are entirely too small. Make sure any openings are truly secure. You shouldn't mess around with openings unless your boar is neutered and is just waiting for the sperm to die!

A fertile boar should be in his own cage. Baby boars should be separated from their mother at 3 to 3 1/2 weeks. They can be placed with the adult male, neutered or fertile. Females can be left with their mother for an indefinite time. The mother will naturally wean the babies at 3 to 5 weeks.



Death & Companions




If one of a bonded pair dies, the other guinea pig may be just fine or may go into what appears to be a depression. They may become sluggish and not eat as much and not appear normal.



Also, that rare chirping sound that a guinea pig makes which not too many people have heard, seems to be noticed more in this situation, where the guinea pig appears to be missing it's mate or pal. Sometimes this happens late in the night.

Should you get a friend for the remaining guinea pig?

Will your guinea pig accept a new friend?
It depends on the personality of the guinea pig. See the section on Adding a 2nd Cavy. A guinea pig that is used to having a friend may have an easier time accepting a new one.

Will your guinea pig be as happy as before?
Maybe, maybe not. But if your guinea pig is depressed and lonely, probably a fairly good match will help with the depression. While your guinea pig may not be as happy as they were before, if they are depressed, they would likely be happier and healthier than being alone.

Will you be as happy as before?
Some people are so in love with their guinea pig and hold such a special place in their heart for it, that replacing one that has been lost is just not an option.

Do you want to continue taking care of cavies for some additional years? Sometimes people are ready to 'take a vacation' from caring for guinea pigs after a number of years. You may just want to make the best of your existing guinea pig's remaining time with you.

How long should you wait?

If your guinea pig is depressed, give him or her a bit of time. Maybe a week or two. Be sure and spend extra time and lavish more attention on your guinea pig. Maybe they will come around and be okay after they go through their mourning period.

Another reason to wait before getting a new friend is so that they really understand that their old friend is truly gone. Giving them some time alone may help them appreciate a new friend a bit more.

If you are planning on getting a new friend and your current guinea pig is very depressed and it's health is suffering, probably the sooner the better on getting a new friend.

If you don't get a new friend?

Be sure to give your remaining guinea pig lots of extra love and attention. Try moving them into a more active area of your home. A slight change of scenery might be good for them. Also, consider getting your guinea pig a stuffed animal friend. Most cavies will be fine with them. If they start to eat or tear it, then of course, remove it. Check the Toys page for additional ideas and advice on keeping a guinea pig happy.



Additional Reading



Introductions and Dominance, A Guinea Lynx Forum Thread





Interesting Info from the Animal Research World

What follows are some references from various animal research sources which discuss some of the implications of the social nature of guinea pigs.

Most of these references were found from searching the Animal Welfare Institute website.



Group Formation
When animals are introduced to each other and pairs or groups are established, there is an initial period during which they work out their social relationships (dominance ranks, etc.). There may be aggressive interactions; however, when conditions are right, the social organization will stabilize. Once the hierarchy has been established the interactions are subtle, and based more on avoidance or ritualized threat than overt aggressive action. If their daily routine is disrupted, if resources such as food or resting spaces are limited, or the animals are poorly grouped, the hierarchy becomes disestablished and the number of aggressive interactions increases. The animal's well-being is threatened when:

a) space is insufficient for maintaining behaviorally adequate distance;
b) feeding or resting space for all individuals is insufficient; or when feeding and resting cannot be accomplished concurrently;
c) regrouping is performed so frequently that animals must repeatedly undergo the stabilization process; and
d) group sizes are inappropriate for the species.

The above statement challenges intense confinement practices which prohibit animals from engaging in their normal social-behavioral activities.

In addition to sufficient primary space for resting, animals also need what could be called secondary space, for freedom of movement at their own will. An important exception may occur at the time of parturition (birth), when most individual animals should be given their own quarters.

Most animals should not be housed singly unless required by medical condition, aggression, or the dictates of the study. Singly housed animals should have some degree of social contact with others of their own kind. For most species, at the very least there should be potential visual contact. Olfactory and auditory contact with other animals is also usually desirable. From Social and Behavioral Requirements of Experimental Animals.

From these data is was concluded, that young male Guinea pigs develop more favorably in colonies than in pairs or singly. Citation: Stanzel, K., Sachser, N. 1994. The ontogeny of male Guinea pigs living under different housing conditions. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 40, 94

No changes in body weight are observed if adult male guinea pigs are removed from their groups and kept singly in their home enclosure. In contrast, subjects markedly lose weight and show a marked reduction of water intake if isolated from their groups and caged singly in an unfamiliar test room. It is recommended that if guinea pigs have to be caged singly, they should remain in their home room, for enabling them to express their need for olfactory/auditory contact with conspecifics. Citation: Fenske, M. 1992. Body weight and water intake of guinea pigs: influence of single caging and an unfamiliar new room. Journal of Experimental Animal Science 35, 71-79

What does that mean? Olfactory translates to sense of smell, auditory to sense of hearing, and conspecifics means of the same species. This passage means that adult male guinea pigs were healthier when, if they must be kept apart from other guinea pigs (perhaps due to fighting or testing in this case), they are kept next to their pals in the same cage with the ability to smell and hear the others.




On This Page
One Cavy or Two?
Adding a 2nd Cavy
Adding a 3rd Cavy
Neuter or Spay?
Quarantine
Introductions
Keeping the Peace
Promoting Happiness
Unplanned Litters
Death & Companions
Additional Reading
Animal Research




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Common Cavy Mistakes and Misconceptions




While this is not intended to be a care list, we would like to share some of the common mistakes, misconceptions, and lack of information people have about cavy care and cavy management.

#1 Cage Size Too Small
This is the most common problem we see at our rescue. Please see Guinea Pig Cages for lots of great cage info and proper size requirements.

#2 Male Guinea Pigs will Fight
Wrong. It depends on the personalities of the guinea pigs. Many, many males live together in pairs or trios and are quite happy with no fights. Some sows will not get along and cannot be housed together. It all depends on the individual guinea pigs.



#3 No Hay or Hay as a Treat ONLY or Wrong Hay
Not giving guinea pigs unlimited Timothy Hay around the clock is a big mistake. Many people don't seem to know that guinea pigs NEED hay. Many people buy the hay they find at the pet store, the most commonly found packaged hay is Alfalfa hay. Many people buy Alfalfa hay because that is what the pet store people told them to buy. Alfalfa hay should only be given to pregnant mothers and growing babies. Alfalfa hay has too much calcium and other nutrients which can cause bladder stones in guinea pigs. Timothy hay helps their digestive system and is the best way to help keep their molars ground down and healthy.



#4 Not Keeping Nails Trimmed
This is a common problem. Guinea pig nails need to be trimmed about once every 4-6 weeks. They can curl and grow back into the pad causing pain and infections. It's very easy to do on your own. See this Guinea Lynx page for more info.



#5 Vitamin Drops in the Water

DO NOT USE the vitamin drops in the water!
The only supplement a healthy cavy needs is Vitamin C. The vitamin drops that you buy at the pet store contain additional vitamins and minerals which can potentially be toxic to them.

Vitamin C deteriorates rapidly in WATER and in LIGHT.

Cavies drink varying amounts of water. There is no way to know how much Vitamin C your cavy is actually getting.

Adult cavies need 30-50 mg per day of C. The drops make the water taste bad, thereby discouraging many cavies from drinking water---not good!

Suggested Vitamin C supplementing:
Your healthy cavy shouldn't need additional Vitamin C supplements IF your cavy is getting proper fresh greens and some fruits and high quality, fresh guinea pig pellets on a daily basis. You should not give your cavy a diet high in fruits to ensure they get adequate vitamin C.

To supplement, get the chewable 'Vitamin C only' tablets for adults or children. To ensure proper dosage, divide up the tablet and then crush it, or crush it and then divide it up. If you have a 500 mg tablet, then one cavy needs 1/10 of that daily. It's best to divide it up into two doses, one in the morning, one in the evening. You can mix the powder or chunks in with their pellets or sprinkle it on their veggies. An easy way to crush a tablet is between two tablespoons.

You can also dose the C directly, especially if you have a sick or needy cavy. Purchase some liquid vitamin C from a health food or drug store. We use a flavored GNC brand and the piggies like it. It says one teaspoon equals 5 ml and that is 500 mg of C. So we divide 500/5 and we get 100 mg in 1 ml. So, for a 50 mg dose (divided in 2--am and pm), we give .25 ml in the morning and .25 ml in the evening. Of course you need a little syringe to do this--also available at a drug store or vet. (1 ml = 1 cc) If you have a very sick or pregnant cavy, you can double the dose.

#6 Giant Exercise Balls and Wheels
Wrong. These are big health hazards to your guinea pig. They can cause spinal injuries and foot and ankle injuries leading to very difficult, life threatening problems. DO NOT USE these products.



#7 Same old food, day in day out
Guinea pigs like and need a variety of fresh vegetables and some fruits, just like we do. Make sure you focus on high-quality greens and veggies which are high in vitamin C and low in calcium. See this Guinea Lynx page for more info.



#8 If I get two guinea pigs, they won't bond with me!
Guinea pigs are a social, herd animal and normally do much better, and are healthier and happier in pairs or trios. They will still bond with you. By having two, you give them a happier life when you are not around. The cost and care of two is not much more than one.


#99 Buying a Pig in Pet Store
Do you have any idea how many people come to our rescue with stories of unknowingly buying sick guinea pigs from pet stores only to have them die a week later? Quite a few. You should ALWAYS check the shelters and rescues first. For information, please see either the Adopting or the Surrendering page on finding a guinea pig to adopt.





Guinea Pigs As Pets



Ron Hines DVM PhD 4/28/06

Of all the pets that I have treated, guinea pigs are the gentlest. They do not have a mean bone in their body and it is hard to believe that they were once capable of existing in the wild. The Spaniards introduced pet guinea pigs to Europe in 1554. They obtained them from the Inca Indians of Peru who kept them as pets as early as 1450. These rodent-like animals no longer exist in the wild. They are also called cavies. Guinea pigs are very shy by nature. They are active both in the daytime and occasionally at night. Guinea pigs are very vocal and this vocalization plays an important part in socialization with other pigs or humans. Guinea pigs love company. Researchers have counted at least eleven different sounds that guinea pigs make in communicating with each other and their owners. Their social nature, temperament and low maintenance make them excellent pets. Guinea pigs are the gentlest of all the pocket pets, which include mice, hamsters, rats and gerbils and so are ideal pets for responsible children. I would not purchase any living pet for a child younger than nine. They love to be petted and will squeak and grunt with pleasure when they are gently handled. They will pine away and their health will suffer if they are not handled or kept with others of their kind. They are very clean. I got my first guinea pig when I was nine. We named her Mrs. Crawford, after one of my parent’s bridge partners who also had droopy jowls.

Like swine, boy guinea pigs are called boars and females sows. Adult female guinea pigs weigh about a pound (450gms) while males weight in at about a pound and a half (700gm). They come in four basic varieties, long and shorthair, straight and swirled and an endless variety of colors. With good care and proper diet, guinea pigs should live 4-7 years. A few will reach 8 years of age.


Choosing The Right Guinea Pig:

If you decide to purchase two pigs, make them both immature females. Males are more active than females and grow up larger. They also have more odor. If you purchase a male and a female you will have to have the male neutered or be resigned to endless litters of baby pigs and a shortened female lifespan. Females can become pregnant as early as two months of age so it is quite common for them to be already pregnant when you purchase them at a pet shop. If no males are present, there is no need to spay a female. Spaying a female guinea pig is considerably more expensive than neutering a male.

Housing:

Like all animals that are eaten in the wild, guinea pigs are very uncomfortable with people and other pets hovering over them. Provide them with containers or objects that they can get into and out of sight. Guinea pigs left free to roam the house eventually get into trouble. So keep them in a cage or pen. Powder-coated cages for guinea pigs are available at most pet stores. Most are designed for one, not two, guinea pigs and many are too small.. I like to have four to six square feet of floor space for each pig - considerably more than National Research Council guidelines suggest for scientific institutions. Put a small wooden or cardboard box in the cage for the guinea pig to hide in. It is important that the cage not have a raised floor grid. These grids cause the guinea pig’s feet to become sore and inflamed. My guinea pigs never jumped, (although readers of this article report theirs do). In any case, no cage lid is required if the walls are at least 18 inches high. I do not like to keep guinea pigs in glass aquaria - they become too humid. Keep the cage in an area where temperatures range between sixty-five and seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit (18-25C). Guinea pigs handle cold quite well but they are very susceptible to heat stroke. Allow them plenty of exercise time outside of their cage. Be careful, particularly if children are involved, the most common accidents that occur are being stepped on and falling off tables. Be careful of toxic plants, electric wires and cats and dogs. Pick up guinea pigs with both hands; one round their shoulders and the other supporting their hindquarters. Be very gentle with pregnant females and youngsters.

Bedding:

My favorite bedding is large flaked pine wood shavings. Several guinea pig breeders have taken exception to this and reported cases of liver damage associated with pine bedding. If you use pine flakes, try to select one with low aroma. These are from low-resin pine species that do not contain large amounts of aromatic organic compounds. .They can be purchased in large bales at feed stores. I try not to purchase bedding that is dusty or mouldy.. Hard wood chips are also fine for guinea pigs but they are messier. Shredded newspaper with soy inks also make excellent bedding. I do not use cedar shaving because of their strong aroma but I do not actually recall a case where cedar’s aroma was linked to a health problems. Bedding should never be allowed to get damp. Change the bedding once or twice a week.

Diet:

Like human beings, guinea pigs need a daily source of vitamin C or ascorbic acid. A lack of vitamin C causes a disease called scurvy. Scurvy in guinea pigs causes eye infections, hair loss and pneumonia. All guinea pig pellets are fortified with vitamin C. But after a few months of storage much of this vitamin is lost. That is why I suggest that vitamin C be added to their diet or drinking water. 500mg of ascorbic acid can be crushed in 500ml (one pint) of drinking water. It should be changed daily. Alternatively, the tablet can be crushed and sprinkled on one to two pounds of diet. Although guinea pigs can be maintained on pellets alone, I like to feed mine timothy hay, kale, spinach, collard and turnip greens as well. Iceberg lettuce is valueless but romaine lettuce – especially the outer leaves is a good source of nutrients. You can pick and wash dandelion from your yard as well. Alfalfa hay and cubes can be feed sparingly if other hay is also fed. Alfalfa is too rich to be a major component of their diet. Fruits, starchy vegetables and sweet items are best not fed because they can upset the normal intestinal flora or bacteria on which these pets rely.
Guinea Pig Chow should make up two thirds of your pig’s diet. Purchase only name brand guinea pig pellets and be sure they are fresh. Large retail outlets tend to turn over their stock of feeds more rapidly than smaller stores so purchase them at the big outlets. If you purchase more than can be used in two months keep it in the refrigerator or freezer.
I use heavy lead-free ceramic food dishes. Water can be provided in bowls but quickly get soiled with loose bedding and food. Water bottles with stainless steel ball bearing sipper tubes are much better. Guinea pigs drink a lot and love to run the water out of the bottles. That is why the sipper tube must have a metal ball at its spout.
Some say guinea pigs are rodents and some say they are not. Like rodents, guinea pig’s teeth are constantly growing. They need safe wooden or bone objects in their cage on which to wear their teeth down or the teeth will overgrow.

Breeding:

Guinea pigs are rather easy to sex. If you pinch or squeeze the genital area the penis will extrude in young males. Adult males are quite obviously male. When I kept cavies, I was taught that female guinea pigs are fertile at as young as two months of age (55-70 days)! And that males mature slightly later. My favoite pocket pet husbandry book The UFAW Handbook also states these ages at puberty (fertility). However, a reader recently informed me that guinea pig females can become pregnant as early as three weeks of age and that males can be fertile as early as four weeks of age. I never separated males from females at so young an age and I have never observed pregnacies occurring so young but apparently this is the case. So play it safe and separate the males babies from the female babies as soon as you can demine their sex.

They have estrus or fertile periods just after giving birth and throughout the year. The length of their estrus cycle is sixteen and one-half days. They are fertile for 6-11 hours, usually beginning in the evening. They come into heat again shortly after birthing. Although female pigs are fertile at two months of age or earlier, they should not be breed until they are 4-5 month old and weigh a little over a pound. The male used should be about double her age to insure potency.. A bigger problem is breeding female guinea pigs for the first time when they are too old. At 7-12 month of age the female’s pelvic bones fuse, making natural delivery next to impossible. So guinea pigs of this age that are having a first litter often need it delivered by cesarean section (dystocia). Baby pigs arrive after a pregnancy of 60-70 days. They are precocious and arrive fully developed. Babies suckle their mothers for about three weeks (180gms) and then are able to eat the same foods as their parentddddddds. Litter size ranges between one and eight. Be sure to handle the babies often at this age so that they become tame.

Diseases And Problems:

The most common illnesses I see in guinea pigs are pneumonia and hair loss associated with malnutrition (lack of vitamin C and other nutrients) and the diseases of old age. The most common disease I find is newly purchased pigs at breeders and pet stores is Pasteurellosis. Pasteurellosis is caused by a bacterium, Pasteurella multocida that is present in some breeding colonies. It causes respiratory and eye infections as well as abscesses The next most common disease is streptococcal infections. . Although pasteurella and streptococcus can be cured with antibiotics these antibiotics can be fatal to the guinea pig. Guinea pigs are notorious about handing antibiotics poorly. The problem is that these antibiotics also kill the “good” bacteria that reside in the pig’s cecum and are essential to proper digestion. If these bacteria are killed, the pig soon succumbs to toxic products that accumulate in the intestine.

When you purchase your guinea pig, be sure it appears healthy. Its eyes should be bright and clean, never crusty or lacking luster. Check it’s nose, eyes, ears, and rear end to be sure it is free from any crusts, discharges, redness or inflammation. . The guinea pig should be alert and active, and plump. Its coat should be full and lustrous. Check its skin for flakes, and redness, and check carefully for parasites such as lice. When you pick up the guinea pig it may be quite skittish and fearful. It should quickly relax in your hands as you stroke it. Don’t purchase a guinea pig that is too calm or too skittish. Keep guinea pigs toenails clipped short every month with human toenail clippers. If you should accidentally cut one too short, push the nail firmly into a moistened bar of Ivory soap to stop the bleeding. Longhaired varieties may need occasional brushing. Use a slicker comb designed for Persian cats. General
Guinea pigs are hystricomorph rodents (related to chinchillas and porcupines) that originated from the Andes Mountains region of South America. They were probably first domesticated by the Indians of Peru, who used them for food and as sacrificial offerings to their gods. In the 16th century Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, and selective breeding and captive rearing began in earnest.
Guinea pigs are very popular pets because of their availability, docile temperaments, tendency not to bite or scratch when handled, and relatively clean habits. They are not long-lived, which can be disconcerting to owners (especially children). Many parents, however, believe that having their children experience the relatively short period of companionship and subsequent death is a meaningful way to expose children to the "ups and downs" of life.

In their natural habitat, guinea pigs live in open, grassy areas. They seek shelter in naturally protected areas or burrows deserted by other animals. Guinea pigs are sociable animals and tend to live in groups. They are strictly herbivorous (plant-eating) and do most of their foraging for grasses, roots, fruits and seeds in the late afternoon and early evening.

For many years guinea pigs have been used in biomedical research laboratories. Consequently, their medical problems have been traditionally approached on a group basis, rather than on an individual basis. As a result, very little practical information exists on the medical care and treatment of individual pet guinea pigs. Even less information is available to owners on the responsible home care of guinea pigs and recognition of their medical problems.

Handling and Restraint
Guinea pigs rarely violently struggle when they are being picked up but often make a "squeal of protest," which sounds pig-like to many people. Nevertheless, great care should be taken not to injure them when picking them up. The guinea pig should be approached with 2 hands. One is placed under the guinea pig's chest and abdomen, and the other supports its hindquarters. Adults and those that are pregnant should receive gentle, but firm, and total support.
One of the most desirable features of guinea pigs as pets is that they rarely bite when being handled or restrained. One reference indicates that only 1 in 400 will bite under these circumstances.

Housing
Proper housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy guinea pigs. The well-being of the animals must be a primary consideration. Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The last 3 materials are preferred because they resist corrosion. Wood and similar materials should not be used in construction of enclosures because they are difficult to clean and cannot withstand gnawing. The construction and design of the enclosure must prevent escape. The enclosure also must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards.
The enclosure must be roomy enough to allow normal activities and breeding, if the latter is desired. One reference recommends at least 100 square inches of floor area per adult, whereas breeders should be allowed 180 square inches per animal.

The enclosure can be open at the top, provided that its sides are at least 7-8 inches high. Male guinea pigs (especially breeding males) require enclosures with sides at least 10 inches high. Males tend to be more rambunctious.

Guinea pigs can be housed on wire mesh (suitable for housing rats) but it is not recommended. Though wire mesh allows urine and most fecal pellets to drop through, thereby keeping the bedding and the residents cleaner, guinea pigs housed for long periods on wire tend to develop serious injuries to the bottoms of their feet (see section on Foot Pad Infections). Furthermore, a leg maybe broken if it becomes entangled in the mesh. This is most often a problem with guinea pigs that have not been reared on wire mesh, and occurs soon after they have been introduced onto it.

Enclosures that provide solid flooring and an adequate supply of a preferred bedding are best for pet guinea pigs. They should be easy to clean, well lighted, and adequately ventilated (see Vital Statistics for preferred temperature and relative humidity ranges). Bedding must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. Shredded paper, wood shavings, and processed corn cob are preferred bedding materials. Sawdust should be avoided because it tends to collect within the external genitalia of males, forming an impaction. Rarely does this impaction interfere with urination, but it may inhibit successful breeding. Cedar shavings should also be avoided because the pleasant smelling odor they impart to the cage are actually toxic to the animal.

Guinea pigs seem most comfortable when they are spared exposure to excessive noise, needless excitement and other stresses. Sudden movement should also be prevented.
Guinea pigs have 2 types of reactions when startled by a loud noise or sudden movement or when placed in a strange environment. They may "freeze" completely motionless (for up to 20 minutes), or they may panic. Panic involves erratic running and leaping, often accompanied by shrill squealing. Groups of guinea pigs may stampede in a circle, often trampling the younger residents within the enclosure. A panic reaction scatters bedding and food, fouling the food and water containers. Visual security (a place into which they can retreat when frightened) should always be provided. Rectangular enclosures containing barriers also reduce the tendency to stampede and circle.

Hygiene
The frequency with which the enclosure is cleaned depends on its design, the materials out of which it is made, and the number of guinea pigs that reside within in. As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure and all cage "furniture" should be cleaned and disinfected once weekly. Food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected once daily. More than one set of containers should be maintained, and the soiled set should be washed in a dishwasher, if possible. Vigorous scrubbing of the enclosure and "furniture" with hot water and soap and a thorough rinse should be followed by use of a disinfectant (Roccal-D: Winthrop). Vinegar is often required to remove the scale deposited by the crystalline urine of guinea pigs.
Food and Water
Good-quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times. Commercially available pelleted chows provide all of the essential nutrients, as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. Some guinea pig owners are tempted to feed rabbit pellets, assuming that they are roughly equivalent to guinea pig pellets, but this is not so. Unlike most mammals (including rabbits), guinea pigs require a high level of the vitamin, folic acid. Unlike rabbits, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C and must, therefore, receive it from an outside source. Interestingly, people and our primate relatives share this dependence on vitamin C from the food we consume. Pellets milled for guinea pigs take these special requirements into consideration and are appropriately fortified with these 2 nutrients, among many other essential ones.
Guinea pig chows generally contain 18-20% protein, 16% fiber and about 1 gram of vitamin C per kilogram of ration. Even when the fresh pellets are properly stored in a cool, dry place, about half of the vitamin C content is degraded and lost within 6 weeks of manufacture. Therefore, the diet should be supplemented with vitamin C as follows: 200 milligrams of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) should be added to about 1 qt of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours, or a single guinea pig should be offered one handful of kale or cabbage or one-quarter of an orange daily.
Researchers are not in agreement on the advisability of adding other items to the balanced ration (pelleted chows). We recommend that fresh greens, hay and small amounts of fruit be offered daily with several precautions: These items should not exceed 10-15% of the daily diet Furthermore, the fresh items must be thoroughly washed to avoid pesticide residues and possible bacterial contamination.

All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist tipping over. The sides of the crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food, or the crocks should be elevated slightly above the bedding.

Water is most easily made available and kept free from contamination by providing it in one or more water bottles equipped with "sipper" tubes. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles more than other pet rodents by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and "backwashing" food particles into it. For this reason, all food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected daily.

Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit and do not tolerate changes in the presentation, taste, odor, texture or form of their food and water. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food and water containers. Any changes in the food itself should be made gradually. Failure to do so usually results in the guinea pigs' refusing food and water, which can lead to disease.

Breeding Considerations
The single most important breeding consideration is that female guinea pigs should be first bred before 7 months of age. If the first breeding is delayed beyond this time, serious (sometimes life-threatening) problems with delivery are encountered. Females should be first bred between 3 and 7 months of age. Males should be 34 months old at their first breeding.
The guinea pig's heat cycle lasts 16 days. The period during which the female is receptive to the male and will allow breeding lasts about 8 hours. Female guinea pigs can come back into heat 15 hours after giving birth. This is called a "postpartum estrus," which means that they can be nursing a litter and pregnant at the same time!
Pregnancy lasts an average of 63 days. The larger the litter, the shorter the term of pregnancy .and vice versa. The duration of pregnancy for guinea pigs is unusually long when compared with that of other rodents.

Pregnant sows (females) exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the latter stages of pregnancy. It is not uncommon for their body weight to double during pregnancy. The time of delivery may be difficult to determine because of the relatively long gestation period and because pregnant sows do not build nests. However, the week before a sow is about to deliver a litter, a slowly widening separation of the pelvis develops just in front of the external genitalia. This separation reaches slightly more than 1 inch in the hours just before delivery.

This separation of the pelvis does not develop in females that are bred for the first time after 7 months of age, creating an impossible and tragic situation. Delivery of the young is not possible and a cesarean section must usually be performed to save the life of the sow and her babies.
An uncomplicated delivery usually requires about 1/2 hour, with an average of 5 minutes between delivery of each baby. Litter sizes range from 1 to 6 young, with an average of 34. Litters resulting from the first breeding are usually very small. Abortions and stillbirths are common with guinea pigs throughout their breeding lives.

The young are born relatively mature. They are unusually large and fully furred, and can walk about. They also have teeth and open eyes at this time. Even though newborn guinea pigs can eat solid food and drink water from a container, they should be allowed to nurse their mother for at least 2 weeks.

Conditions Requiring Veterinary Attention
Malocclusion of Premolar Teeth (Slobbers)
A common problem of guinea pigs (especially those over 3 years old) results when the upper and lower premolar teeth (the most forward cheek teeth) meet improperly while chewing. In time, this problem results in abnormal wear of these teeth. This in turn causes entrapment of and continual injury to the tongue. Affected animals try to eat but cannot chew and swallow food. Drooling results in a continually moist mouth and chin. Weight loss is often dramatic.
A veterinarian must be consulted as soon as possible if this condition is suspected. The diagnosis is confirmed upon direct visual examination of the mouth. Correction of the problem involves general anesthesia and aggressive trimming or filing of the overgrown teeth. This is a difficult procedure because of the guinea pig's extremely small mouth opening. Forced feedings and antibiotics are usually necessary for a number of days before and after this procedure has been performed.

There is no permanent solution or correction for this problem. Periodic trimming or filing is almost always necessary. Guinea pigs with this problem should never be bred so as to prevent passing this most undesirable trait to their offspring.

Vitamin C Deficiency (Scurvy or Scorbutis)
Guinea pigs cannot manufacture vitamin C and must receive an adequate supply of it from outside food sources. Vitamin C deficiency results in scurvy, which is characterized by inappetence, swollen, painful joints and ribs, reluctance to move, poor bone and teeth development, and spontaneous bleeding from the gums and into muscle.
Adequate levels of vitamin C are always included in the formulation of pelleted diets for guinea pigs. Often, however, handling and improper storage (exposure to light, heat and dampness) of the feed pellets results in loss of vitamin C. Therefore, even guinea pigs fed presumably reliable pelleted diets may develop scurvy if the diet's vitamin C content has been reduced or lost.
A veterinarian should be consulted if this disease is suspected so that the diagnosis can be confirmed. The veterinarian will prescribe a program of vitamin C supplementation (via food or water or injection) to reverse the signs.

Difficulties During Birth
Dystocia: Female guinea pigs intended for breeding must be first bred before 7 months of age. If the first breeding is delayed beyond this time, serious (sometimes life-threatening) problems with delivery are encountered.
A portion of the pregnant sow's pelvis must widen for successful delivery of her young. This separation fails to develop in females bred for the first time after 7 months of age, usually necessitating a cesarean section to deliver the young and save the sow's life.

Signs of dystocia include straining and uterine bleeding. Veterinary help must be sought immediately. The veterinarian will evaluate the pregnant sow by direct exam and by taking x-rays. If a vaginal delivery of the young is not possible, a cesarean section will be necessary.

Pregnancy toxemia is a serious condition that usually occurs in overweight sows in their first or second pregnancy. Signs are most likely to be noted over 1-5 days during the last 2 weeks of pregnancy or the first week following birth. These include inappetence, depression, weakness, reluctance to move, incoordination, difficulty breathing, coma and death. Some afflicted sows may show no signs and suddenly die.

There is no single cause for this condition, but stress and obesity are major predisposing factors. Others include advancing age, lack of exercise, fasting just before the onset of signs, and a large number of developing fetuses. The fundamental underlying problem appears to be inadequate blood flow to the pregnant uterus.

Sows showing any of these signs must be seen immediately by a veterinarian. Because treatment is often unsuccessful, prevention of pregnancy toxemia is of paramount importance. Pregnant sows should not be allowed to become obese. Fasting and stress must be avoided, especially in the last several weeks of pregnancy. Pregnant sows must be supplied with fresh water at all times and fed a nutritious diet

Hair Loss
Hair loss or thinning of the hair is a common problem of female guinea pigs that have been repeatedly bred. These sows tend to lose hair with each successive pregnancy.
Hair loss is frequently noted among juvenile guinea pigs ma weakened state at or around the time of weaning. "Barbering" also results in hair loss. This vice (bad habit) occurs when guinea pigs habitually chew on the haircoats of guinea pigs that are lower in the social "pecking order." Younger guinea pigs in particular, can lose substantial amounts of hair as a result of this activity. Hair can also be lost because of fungal disease and external parasite infestations.

Heat Stress (Heat Stroke)
Guinea pigs are especially susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures above 85 F, high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade and ventilation, crowding and stress are additional predisposing factors.
Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, refusal to move about, delirium, convulsions and eventually death. Heat stroke is treatable if recognized relatively early. Heat-stressed guinea pigs should be immediately sprayed with or bathed in cool water. Once this first-aid is undertaken, a veterinarian should be contacted immediately.

Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade from the sun (if guinea pigs are housed outdoors) and adequate ventilation (if housed in-doors). A continuous light mist or spray of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice can be directed at a guinea pig within its enclosure to lower the air temperature, whether the guinea pig is housed indoors or outdoors.

Cancer
Cancer is a relatively rare problem of guinea pigs. As with most animals, it is most likely to affect older guinea pigs. Most tumors are benign and involve the skin and respiratory tract lining. Cancer may also affect the reproductive tract, mammary glands (breasts) and blood (leukemia).
Footpad Infections (Bacterial Pododermatitis)
Serious (sometimes crippling) infections of the footpads are common among pet guinea pigs housed continuously on wire. The other major predisposing actor is fecal soiling of wire-bottomed enclosures. he front feet of overweight animals are especially vulnerable to this condition.
Signs include swelling of the feet, lameness, reluctance to move, and inappetence. The flooring of the enclosure must be changed and overall sanitation must be improved. A veterinarian must be consulted regarding treatment of the affected feet. Topical dressing with an antibiotic and periodic bandaging re necessary during the usually lengthy recovery period. Injectable antibiotics are often used by veterinarians in treatment of this condition. Arthritis is a frequent and unfortunate consequence of these infections.

Cervical Lymphadenitis "Lumps"
Abscessation of the lymph nodes immediately beneath the lower jaw, in the upper neck, usually results when coarse foods (such as hay) injure the lining of the mouth or when superficial wounds penetrate the skin over these lymph nodes. Bacterial invasion causes painful, swollen abscesses under the lower jaw. Sometimes these abscesses break open and exude a thick, creamy yellow-white pus.
A veterinarian can perform a bacterial culture of :he pus with antibiotic sensitivity testing to determine the appropriate antibiotic to use by injection. If :he abscesses are large, surgical removal and aggressive antibiotic therapy may be recommended.

Pneumonia
Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of pet guinea pigs. A number of potential disease-causing bacteria may inhabit the respiratory tracts of otherwise normal guinea pigs. Stress, inadequate diet, and improper home care often predispose a pet guinea pig to respiratory infection. Signs of pneumonia may include labored or rapid breathing, discharge from eyes and nostrils, lethargy and inappetence. Some animals show no signs at all before dying suddenly.
Middle and inner ear infections occasionally result from respiratory disease in guinea pigs. Additional signs may include incoordination, tilting of the head, circling to one side, and rolling.

A veterinarian must be consulted about this serious bacterial infection. Aggressive antibiotic therapy by injection and appropriate supportive care are necessary. Bacterial culture and antibiotic sensitivity testing help the veterinarian select an appropriate antibiotic. Unfortunately, even though the signs of in-fection can be relieved, the causative bacteria cannot be eliminated.

Rabbits and rats harbor at least one of the bacteria known to cause pneumonia in guinea pigs. Therefore, it is wise not to house these animals with or near guinea pigs.

Intestinal Infections (Bacterial Enteritis)
Numerous bacteria can cause infections of the gastrointestinal tract of guinea pigs. Some of these bacteria are introduced on contaminated greens and vegetables or in contaminated water.
Intestinal infections can manifest themselves as sudden death without prior signs, or as a more lengthy period of illness characterized by lethargy and marked weight loss. Diarrhea may or may not be noted in either case.
A veterinarian may recommend aggressive antibiotic therapy and appropriate supportive care. A bacterial culture of the patient's stool and antibiotic sensitivity testing help the veterinarian select the appropriate antibiotic.

Ringworm
Ringworm is a skin disease caused by a fungus similar to the one that causes athlete's foot in people. Young guinea pigs are usually more susceptible than adults. Ringworm in guinea pigs is generally characterized by patchy hair loss on the face, nose and ears. The skin in these areas may appear flaky. Areas of hair loss may extend along the top side of the trunk.
A veterinarian must confirm the diagnosis and prescribe topical and/or oral medication. The medications to be used depend on the number of ringworm areas present and their distribution on the body.

Ringworm can be transmitted from guinea pigs to people. It is, therefore, important to limit or restrict handling of infected guinea pigs (especially by young children) until their disease has been successfully treated. If handling is necessary, the handler should thoroughly wash his hands afterward.

Viral Diseases
Most viral infections of pet guinea pigs are either mild or inapparent
Lice Infestation
Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live within the haircoat Both the adults and their eggs are found attached to individual hairs.
Guinea pigs may be parasitized by 2 types of biting lice. Both abrade the skin surface and feed off of body fluids that exude through the very superficial wounds they create.

Light infestations usually go unnoticed. Heavy infestations are usually accompanied with excessive Itching, scratching and some hair loss. Scabs may also be evident on and around the ears.
A veterinarian can confirm the diagnosis by direct examination of the haircoat. Direct examination is usually all that is necessary, though use of a microscope is very helpful. The veterinarian will usually prescribe an insecticidal shampoo to treat affected guinea pigs.

Lice can be transmitted by direct and intimate contact between infested and uninfested guinea pig Therefore, pet guinea pigs are very unlikely to harbor these parasites unless they are recent acquisitions that were previously in contact with louse-infested guinea pigs. Established pet guinea pigs could also be infested by being placed in close contact with new, infested guinea pigs. Guinea pig lice do not parasitize people.

Mite Infestations (Mange)
A mite similar to the scabies mite of people causes serious infestations in pet guinea pig. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that live within the outer layers of the skin. They usually cause intense scratching and significant hair loss. Some cases without scratching have been reported. Some guinea pigs are so miserable because of the infestation that their constant scratching produces serious wounds. They may run wildly or in circles, and occasionally even have convulsions.
A veterinarian must do a number of scrapings of the skin to confirm the diagnosis. Successful treatment consists of 1-4 injections of a specific drug (ivermectin) 10-44 days apart. Any wood shavings within the enclosure should be replaced by white paper toweling during treatment to help make the patient more comfortable.

Intestinal Parasite Problems
Intestinal parasites are usually not a significant problem in pet guinea pigs. A protozoan (one-celled organism) parasite may cause coccidiosis in guinea pig. Signs of this disease include weakness, diarrhea and severe weight loss. Pinworm infections of guinea pigs usually go unnoticed.
Both of these parasitisms can be diagnosed by a veterinarian by stool examinations. Both are treatable using specific drugs prescribed by the veterinarian. Neither parasite problem is transmissible to people.

Sensitivity of Guinea Pigs to Certain Antibiotics
Guinea pigs as a group are unusually sensitive to certain antibiotics, whether they are given orally or by injection. Potentially harmful antibiotics include ampicillin, penicillin, bacitracin, erythromycin, lincomycin, gentamicin, clindamycin, streptomycin, vancomycin and sometimes tetracycline. Interestingly, even certain antibiotics used topically may produce lethal effects.
The major way in which certain antibiotics cause reactions is by altering the normal microbial balance within the gastrointestinal tract Once the normal intestinal microfloral balance has been upset, certain bacteria multiply to abnormally large numbers. The multiplying bacteria produce harmful chemicals that can have lethal effects.

Certain antibiotics (streptomycin, dihydrostreptomycin) are directly toxic and do not alter the microbial balance within the gastrointestinal tract. These antibiotics should never be used in guinea pigs.

Though injectable antibiotics can cause the problems described above, oral antibiotics are more often associated with them. Antibiotics should never be given to guinea pigs unless they are prescribed by a veterinarian. If oral or injectable antibiotics are prescribed, 2 1/2 cc (1/2 teaspoon) of plain, white yogurt should be given orally to the treated animal morning and evening for the duration of the antibiotic therapy and for an additional 5-7 days afterward. Yogurt helps replace those beneficial intestinal bacteria that often perish during antibiotic treatment.


Vital Statistics
Scientific name Cavia porcellus
Life span 3-4 years
Potential life span 6-7 years
Desirable environmental temperature range 65-75 F
Desirable relative humidity range 40-70% (50% is considered ideal)
Recommended age at 1st breeding male: 3-4 months; female: <3-7 months (not after 7 months)
Length of estrous (heat) cycle 16 days
Length of estrus (period during which female is receptive to male for copulation) 8 hours
Gestation (pregnancy) averages 63-68 days
Average litter size 3-4 young (range, 1-6)
Age at weaning 3 weeks

Human Allergies to Guinea Pig Dander
Certain people are allergic to the hair and/or dander of guinea pigs. People working with guinea pigs in laboratory situations are more likely to develop such allergies because of their continual association with them. Signs include itchy eyes, sneezing, runny nose, persistent cough, shortness of breath, wheezing, a skin rash, and anaphylactic shock (a true medical emergency).
Owners of pet guinea pigs may also be susceptible, and a medical doctor should be consulted about suspected allergy problems if a guinea pig is kept as a pet in the household. Guinea pig owners with such a suspected allergy may want to consult an allergist.

Clubs and Organizations
A wealth of additional useful information may be obtained by joining one or more of the organizations listed below. All of these groups publish newsletters or bulletins.
American Cavy Breeders Association
c/o Lenore Gergen
16540 Hogan Avenue
Hastings, MN 55033
Web site address: http://acba.osb-land.com/

California State Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association
c/o Sonny Harper
20041 Qark Street
Orange, CA 92669
[phone]

San Gabriel Valley Cavy Breeders Association
President: Marolyn Briese
City Farmer Caviary
11142 Tarawa Drive
Los Alamitos, CA 90720
[phone]


Guinea Pig Care

Responsibility involves providing proper housing, nutrition, grooming and veterinary care.

Background

Guinea pigs were originally discovered in South America. They're larger than hamsters, but smaller than rabbits. They live for five to seven years, and are very sociable. The various breeds of guinea pigs are: Abyssinian, Abyssinian Satin, Peruvian, Peruvian Satin, Silkie (Sheltie), Silkie Satin, Teddy, Teddy Satin, Texal, American, American Satin, White Crested and Coronet. They have different hair types, colors and markings.
Guinea pigs make wonderful companions. They bite only when very frightened by such things as mishandling or a threatening animal. Children caring for guinea pigs should be supervised by an adult, since these animals need to be treated gently. They are not toys. Primary responsibility should be with an adult. One of the guinea pigs' most endearing traits is his language of squeals, squeaks, growls, gurgles, murmurs and rattling.
Housing

The minimum space for a single guinea pig is 2' x 2' x 2'. More space must be provided for any additional guinea pigs. Wire-bottom cages can be used if something is put down as flooring to keep the guinea pig's feet from getting caught in the wire bottom. Never use a glass aquarium because of poor ventilation. Always keep the cage indoors away from drafts and extreme temperatures. The bottom of the cage should be lined with sawdust, wood shavings or some other form of safe bedding. Do not use cedar or pine chips as the oils they contain can be dangerous to an animal. Timothy hay is a good choice of bedding. Be sure to change the bedding often enough to keep it dry and odor-free. It is possible to train a guinea pig to use a litter box, but the process is a slow one and a great deal of patience is required.
Guinea pigs love to hide when they play, so be sure to place cardboard tubes and/or empty coffee cans with smoothed edges in the enclosure. Guinea pigs can be allowed to run free in one room to get some additional exercise, but the room should be carefully checked for any openings from which the guinea pigs can escape, get lost or possibly end up hurt. It is best to supervise these animals when they are loose because they will chew on electrical wires.
Diet

It is essential for you to provide your guinea pig with vitamin C. Guinea pig pellets are supplemented with it, but rabbit pellets are not. Therefore, it is best to buy only guinea pig food. You can add small amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables to your guinea pig's basic diet, but please clean up any leftover fresh food before it spoils. To provide water, use an inverted bottle with a drinking tube. Water should be changed daily.
General Care

Guinea pigs' teeth grow continuously, just like those of all other rodents. So, it is important for you to give your guinea pig a piece of wood that he can gnaw on to wear his teeth down. It's best to provide a tree branch that has not been treated with pesticides or any other chemicals, but any small piece of unpainted wood not treated chemically will do.
Guinea pigs groom themselves, but brushing them on a regular basis will help keep their coat clean and remove loose hairs. Long-haired guinea pigs should be brushed regularly in order to prevent tangles and knots.
Guinea pigs are social animals who prefer to live in small groups. Two young males generally can be kept together, but fighting usually breaks out among adult males. Several females can be kept together. Since guinea pigs, like all rodents, multiply rapidly, keeping males and females together is not recommended.
A guinea pig who is ill should be seen by a veterinarian

Guinea Pig Care

Nutrition
Guinea Pigs need a well balanced diet consiting of unlimited supply of fresh hay, Guinea Pig pellets (never rabbit pellets) and fresh foods.
Guinea pigs are unable to produce vitamin c themselves and must obtain this from their food.
Suitable fresh foods are... Choko, capsicum, tomato, carrots, red lettuce, endive, kale, parsley, broccoli, cauliflower, grapes, corn on the cob, sweet potato, apple, brussel sprouts, celery, fresh grass (not from beside a road, or treated with chemicals), water cress, pumpkin, parsnips.
Other foods your pigies may enjoy are rolled oats, puffed corn.
Never feed you piggie/s animal products such as dairy, meats, eggs etc..., birds seeds, potato, iceberg lettuce.
Guinea Pigs should have around one handfull of fresh foods per day as well as their hay and pellets


Housing Guinea Pigs need a spacious, well ventilated cage. The reccomended size of cage is 8 square feet for one piggie and an extra 1 square foot every extra piggie, and they will need daily floor time for excersize. The bigger the cage the better as pigs need room for excerising.
The cage should not have any wire flooring, shelving or ramps, if they do either remove them or cover them with a thick layer of newspaper, or lino. Wire shelves, ramps, and floors can cause bumble foot a very painfull infection in thier feet, or they can get their feet stuck and twist or break limbs
You can be quite creative when making a guinea pig cage, they love a second level as long as it isn't too high and they can get a good grip on the surface.
Bedding should be used and may be either sheets of newpaper (changed daily), kiln dried pine, or a recycled paper bedding.You may also like to add a towel or old shirt for them to cuddle up on. Never use cedar shaving or chips as they contain harmfull phenols.
Never use Aquariums as they do not allow enough veintilation. This can cause heat stress (can result in death), or the ammonia can build up and cause health concerns.
I must comment on the choice of wether to keep them indoors or outdoors. The cages mentioned above are for indoor use. Outdoor cages must have a shelter that will protect them from the elements and a run. The elements can go from one extreme to another outdoors and pigs easily suffer from heat stress which can be fatal if not treated immediatley. If you do decide to keep your guinea pigs out doors make sure the cage is not placed in direct sun at any time in the day. I don't reccomend keeping them outdoors. Pigs live longer happier lives when indoors.


A good example of a spacious Guinea Pig cage.
Grooming Depending on the hair type of your guinea pig they may or may not need much grooming.
Shorthaired guinea pigs such as Americans, Crested, Abbysinian and Rex will need very little grooming. An occasional bath to remove any dead hair and dirt is reccomended.
However if you have a longhaired guinea pig alot of grooming is needed. If you are not showing, It is easiet to clip the coat regualary for easy management. If you let the hair grow longer daily grooming is required as well as regular bathing.
Suitable shampoos are small animal, kitten or a mild human shampoo, and is to be rinsed thougroughly. You can towel dry or blowdry on the lowest settings before returning to a clean cage.
Guinea pigs claws should be clipped regulary to prevent them from overgrowing. To do this you will need a pair of animal nail clippers. Make sure not to cut the quick (pink area inside the nail), if you do flour can be put on and presure applied to the tip to stop bleeding.
You can also add bricks or pavers to your guinea pigs cage in places they walk over alot (ie under water bottles etc...) to help keep the nails trim.

Phoebe and Bella
Breeding Before anyone should decide to breed there are alot of considerations that should be made.
Breeding can be very dangerous as there are many birth and pregnancy complications that can lead to death for both mother and babies such as toxemia and dystocia to name a few.
A sow should not be mated for the first time if she is over 10 months of age as the ligaments around the pelvic bones can fuse making a normal delivery impossible. In this case a c-section is neccessary, but usually without success. Females should be mated between 4-6 months for their first time.
Guinea pigs have a heat cycle of 14-17 days and are in heat for aproximaley 12 hours in which they can mate. The Gestation period is 8-10 weeks depending on the size of the litter.

You can feel the babies moving inside at about 3 weeks before the birth, at this time you should take the male away, and add one teaspoon of brown sugar to 8 0z of water to help prevent toxemia.
Sows should never be bred to deliver in hot weather as this can contribute to developing toxemia.
Babies are born with eyes open, fully haired and are running around and eating solid food within hours. They will need mums milk for another 3-4 weeks before being weaned.



Introducing a new Guinea Pig
A new addition to your guinea pig family is wonderful time, but there are certain precautions that must be taken to insure the health of your guinea pigs. Before introducing any new guinea pigs they should be quarantined for at least two weeks incase they are incuabting a disease or are carrying parasites. This time gives you a chance to recognise this and have it treated before putting your resident guinea pigs at risk.

After the quarantine time if your new guinea pigs are healthy you can introduce them to your other guinea pigs.
This should be done on neutral territory (ie. Bathroom floor, or bath tub). Rumbling, mounting, and chasing are normal behaviours for establishing dominance in both sexes.
Don't seperate unless they fight and are bleeding.
If all goes well they will be living happily together in no time



Food
My guinea pigs are picky eaters. They only eat certain types of food. Although, guinea pigs are know to eat many different kinds of vegetables and fruits from lettuce to carrots and even apples. An essential to cavies is hay kob. I try to select the bag with the most amount of big chunks of hay. Another essential is pellets. There are a couple different types of pellets in stores. There are regular guinea pigs pellets, pellets with colorful pieces, and a pellet mix with sunflower seeds. My guinea pigs love sunflower seeds. They can actually open up the shell and only eat the inner seed! There are also other items that are for the guinea pigs to chew on to keep their teeth from growing too long, little cakes that are made op hay, pellets, sunflower seeds, and sprinkles, and even little fake carrots for them to eat. Have fun shopping for their food, there are many options available.

Guinea Pigs

Guinea Pigs are not really pigs, and they don't come from Guinea. They are native to the Andes Mountains of South America. In all likelihood the name was derived because they were first introduced in Europe by early explorers who picked them up in South America and passed through Guinea on the return voyage. The Pig nomenclature refers to their squealing calls.



Guinea Pigs have been domesticated for centuries. The Incas kept them as pets and as emergency food sources. Native South American people still maintain "herds" of them in their villages today.



Guinea Pigs are not really pigs, and they don't come from Guinea. They are native to the Andes Mountains of South America!







Diet



Guinea Pigs are primarily fed a pelleted diet. They are unique in that they are the only mammal other than primates that do not metabolize Vitamin C from sunshine. Therefore their diet must be supplemented with this essential vitamin at a rate of 10 mg per day. Guinea Pig Pellets have stabilized Vitamin C added to them. It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an emergency, but it is not safe to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs.



Fresh vegetables and Timothy Hay should also be added to the diet.



Supplementing their diet with a daily multi-vitamin in their food is recommended.



Fresh water should always be available in a drinking tube or water bottle.





Housing



Guinea Pigs can be kept in cages or aquariums. Guinea Pig cages are fairly large and have a deep tray to keep the shavings from being scattered about.



Aquariums with wire screen tops are much more commonly used. The screen top isn't really necessary as Guinea pigs don't jump or climb. The top is more to keep other household pets from hurting the pig. These are difficult for the Guinea Pig to escape from, keep the bedding in place, and are easy to clean. A layer of bedding material should cover the bottom of the aquarium. A hiding space is also recommended.





Handling & Care



Guinea pigs are social animals. They do well when kept in pairs or groups that have been raised together. The pair doesn't necessarily have to be a mated pair, as two males get along well together, as do two females.



Guinea Pigs are easy to handle. Simply gently scoop the animal into the palm of your hand, while placing your other hand over the animal's back and lift.



Traditionally pine shavings have been used as bedding material for these animals, but recent studies indicate that the phenols in pine that cause their aroma, also can lead to health problems in animals that have direct exposure over an extended period of time. Aspen bedding is a much better and safer choice. Never use cedar shavings for Guinea Pigs, as the phenols are very strong and cause serious respiratory, skin, coat and liver problems

Guinea Pig Care
They’re not pigs and they’re not from New Guinea!
Read on to find out what these South American natives need to stay happy and healthy.

Background
Larger than hamsters, but smaller than rabbits, guinea pigs can weigh a couple of pounds and generally live for five to seven years. The three most common breeds of guinea pig are the Smooth-Coated, with short, glossy fur; the Abyssinian, whose hair grows in fluffy tufts all over the body, and the Peruvian, with long, silky hair that flows to the ground.

Guinea pigs make wonderful companions. These docile members of the rodent family rarely bite and are known for squeaking with delight when their favorite humans enter the room. Guinea pigs are excellent starter pets for older children who have mastered proper handling techniques.

Cost
When you first get your pet, you’ll need to spend about $35 for a cage. Food runs about $75 a year, plus $25 annually for toys and treats, $50 for an annual veterinary check-up and $400 per year for litter and bedding material. We recommend getting your guinea pig from a responsible breeder or, even better, adopting one from a shelter or small-animal rescue group.

Housing
Guinea pigs are social animals who prefer to live in small groups. If you keep two or more females together, they will become great friends. If you want two males, it’s smart to choose two babies from the same litter. Since guinea pigs, like all rodents, multiply rapidly, keeping males and females together is not recommended.

As a rule of thumb, you’ll need to provide a minimum of four square feet of cage space per guinea pig—but please try to get as large a cage as possible. You’ll need a solid-bottom cage—no wire floors, please, as they can irritate your pets’ feet. Plastic-bottom “tub cages” with wire tops also make great guinea pig homes. Never use a glass aquarium, due to the poor ventilation that it provides.

Always keep the cage indoors away from drafts and extreme temperatures, as guinea pigs are very susceptible to heatstroke. They’ll prefer an environment kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Line the bottom of the cage with aspen or hardwood shavings or some other form of safe bedding, such as grass hay. Do not use cedar or pine chips—the oils they contain can be dangerous to your pets. (P.S. Yes, you can train a guinea pig to use a litter box—but please note that this will require lots of time and patience!)

Guinea pigs love to hide when they play, so be sure to place cardboard tubes and/or empty coffee cans with smoothed edges in the enclosure for this purpose. Plastic pipes and flower pots are good, too, and bricks and rocks for climbing will be much appreciated. All guinea pigs need a cave for sleeping and resting, so please provide a medium-sized flower pot or covered sleeping box, readily available at pet supply stores.

Diet
Commercial guinea pig pellets should make up the bulk of your pet’s diet. Nutritionally complete, they’re available at pet supply stores, and are made from plants, seeds and veggies. Feed your guinea pigs twice daily, in the morning and in the evening.

The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables to your guinea pigs every day. Try grapes, cucumbers, corn, peas, carrots and pears. Half a handful of veggies and a slice of fresh fruit per pig is plenty. Always make sure to clean up any leftover fresh food before it spoils. You’ll also need to make grass hay available to your pets at all times. It’s great for the digestive system, and will also satisfy your pet’s need to gnaw.

Unlike other animals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C, so you’ll need to ensure that your pets get enough of this essential nutrient every day. A quarter of an orange will do, but you can also include some fruits and veggies that are high in C to their daily ration of fresh foods, such as kale, dandelion greens and strawberries.

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Use an inverted bottle with a drinking tube, and change the water daily.

General Care
Remove soiled bedding, droppings and stale food from the cage daily. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty bedding and scrubbing the bottom of the cage with warm water. Be sure everything’s dry before adding fresh bedding.

Did you know that guinea pigs’ teeth grow continuously, just like those of other rodents? That’s why it is important that you provide yours with something to gnaw on at all times. Branches and twigs from untreated trees will work, as will any small piece of wood that hasn’t been treated with chemicals.

It’s crucial that you get your pets used to you—and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’re comfortable with that, you can carefully pick up one pig at a time, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back.

Once you have hand-tamed your piggies, you should let them run around in a small room or enclosed area to get some additional exercise every day. You will need to carefully check the room for any openings from which the guinea pigs can escape, get lost and possibly end up hurt. These animals must be supervised when they are loose because they will chew on anything in their paths—including electrical wires.

Guinea pigs are very conscientious about grooming themselves, but brushing them on a regular basis will help keep their coat clean and remove any loose hairs. Long-haired guinea pigs should be brushed daily in order to prevent tangles and knots from forming.

Veterinary Care
If you think one of your guinea pigs is sick, don’t delay—seek medical attention immediately. Common signs that something isn’t right include sneezing, coughing, diarrhea and lethargy. Guinea pigs are also susceptible to external parasites such as mites and lice. If you think your pet is infested, head to the vet for treatment.

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Guinea Pig Supply Checklist
- Solid-bottom cage with wire cover or plastic-bottom “tub” cage (minimum four square feet of cage space per pig)
- Guinea pig pellets
- Aspen or hardwood shavings
- Grass hay
- Bricks, rocks, cardboard boxes, plastic pipes and other appropriate toys
- Medium flower pot or covered sleeping box
- Brush and comb for grooming
- Attachable water bottle with drinking tube
- Unpainted, untreated piece of wood or safe chew toyFOR MORE INFORMATION
- Guinea Lynx offers general guinea pig care and nutrition info.
- Cavy Cages offers advice on bedding and housing, with simple directions for constructing large cages.
- Cavy Spirit contains good information on how to introduce two guinea pigs, neutering and much more.
- Cavy Rescue provides a worldwide list of cavy rescues and searchable databases of adoptable guinea pigs.

Guinea Pigs



Guinea pigs are good pets.

They are small animals.

Their front teeth keep growing.

They chew hard food to stop their teeth getting too long.



Guinea pigs are rodents and belong to the cavy family. They are related to rats and mice. Females are called sows, and males are called boars. In their natural habitat, in grassland areas in parts of South America, guinea pigs live in family groups, so when deciding to have them as pets it is a good idea to keep at least two guinea pigs so that the animals have companionship.



Feeding your guinea pigs
Guinea pig pellet food can be bought from the pet shop. Because their front teeth grow continuously, gnawing food such as dry pellets helps keep their teeth to a good size.

Guinea pigs should also be fed hay, fresh fruits such as apples, pears, peaches, strawberries and vegetables such as broccoli, carrots and cauliflower. Guinea pigs need fresh water too.


Housing your guinea pigs
A hutch for your guinea pigs should be large enough for the animals to move freely about inside. It should be well ventilated and have a solid bottom. A cardboard or wooden box with an open bottom and a hole cut in the side should be placed inside the cage as a place where a frightened guinea pig can hide.

Bedding can be a layer of ink-free paper or shredded cardboard with hay on top, but it must be changed often. Special bedding for guinea pigs is available from pet shops.

Guinea pigs need plenty of exercise and should have a safe playpen area. It can be joined onto the cage or the guinea pigs can be taken to it each day. The cage and the play areas should be cleaned thoroughly at least once a week.

History

The guinea pig, or cavy, is a docile rodent native to the Andes Mountain Range area of South America. They were first domesticated by the Andean Indians of Peru, who used them as a food source and as a sacrificial offering to Incan Indian gods. During the 18th century, Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, where they were selectively bred by fanciers. The guinea pig entered the research laboratory in the 18th century, and has since made significant contributions to the scientific community. To this day, the guinea pig remains a favorite pet among children due to their docile behavior; ease of handling amd quiet nature.

Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of colors and coat types from which to choose. Four primary varieties are commonly encountered in the pet industry. The Shorthair English is characterized by having a uniformly short hair coat. The Abyssinian has whorls or rosettes in their short, rough, wiry coat. The Silky is a large variety distinguished by its medium length silky hair. The Peruvian is recognized by its very long silky hair. All types are commonly kept as pets.




Diet
Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times.

Diet Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit, and therefore do not tolerate changes in the presentation of their food or water or changes in the taste, odor, texture or form of the food itself. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food or water containers as well. Any sudden change in routine can result in the pet refusing its food and water, which can be disconcerting and ultimately dangerous. If the diet you are presently feeding your guinea pig is very different from our recommendations, make changes gradually.

All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist both tipping and chewing. The crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food, but low enough for easy access by the animal.

Pellets:
Commercially available pelleted chows provide all the essential nutrients required by guinea pigs, as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. A good quality guinea pig pellet should be offered daily with both the quantity and quality closely monitored.

· Young Guinea Pigs require more energy for their rapid growth and development and as such can be fed a "free-choice" (i.e. as much as they want) dish of pellets specially manufactured for their needs. Growth formula pellets are usually alfalfa based, with high fiber (20%), low protein (18%).

· Adult (over 6 months) and older guinea pigs should eat a timothy-based pellet. These pellets are designed with low protein (14%) and higher fiber content (28%). Their unrestricted use can result in a myriad of health problems including obesity with concurrent heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, bladder stones and kidney disease. Our recommendations for pellet rations take into account age, weight and lifestyle. Unless your veterinarian advises you otherwise, a guideline for your adult guinea pig can be estimated by his weight:

500 gr -1 kg body weight: Feed 1/8 cup per day

1 kg - 2 kg body weight: Feed ¼ cup per day

DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if pellets are all eaten before the next day.

A final note on pellets: make sure any pellet you buy is fresh, preferably sold in a sealed bag with a best-before date on it. We do not recommend bulk bought pellets, as it is impossible to determine their freshness. Buy small quantities and keep it refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets may cause your guinea pig to stop eating. If you must buy more than a two month supply at a time, freeze them.

These pellets contain approximately 800 mg of vitamin C per kilogram of ration. Do not feed rabbit pellets as a substitute for guinea pig pellets. They are not equivalent in nutritive value. Unlike rabbits, and most mammals for that matter, guinea pigs require a high level of folic acid and vitamin C. Guinea pig diets are uniquely formulated with these requirements in mind, whereas rabbit pellets are not.

Vit C:
Unlike most mammals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C; therefore, they must receive it from an outside source. Pelleted guinea pig diets are supplemented with this essential vitamin. However, even when properly stored in a cool, dry place, fresh pellets lose about one-half of their vitamin C content due to degradation within six weeks of manufacture. For this reason, we also recommend further vitamin C supplementation in the water as follows: 50 milligrams ascorbic acid (human vitamin C syrup or powder or pills) added to 1 cup of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours. Alternatively, your guinea pig can be offered one handful of fresh kale or cabbage or one-quarter of an orange daily. See the section on diet regarding fresh vegetables.

Timothy or Grass Hay:
Like rabbits, guinea pigs require a high level of fiber to promote normal digestion and to prevent gastro-intestinal stasis (see the section on gastro-intestinal stasis for more information) We recommend all guinea pigs have free choice access to fresh timothy, grass or oat hay daily. We prefer the loose, long strands of hay as opposed to the pressed cubes. These products also contain proteins and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, as it has been shown to be too high in calcium and carbohydrates, which may lead to serious health problems, and digestive upsets.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruits:
We like guinea pigs to get greens and lots of them. Pick the dark coloured fibrous greens, which are rich in a variety of nutrients. Remember to include your Vit C rich fruits and vegetables as well. Feed a minimum of 3 types daily to get your cavy used to variety. In this way, if changes have to be made, they are tolerated more easily.

ANY MAJOR CHANGE IN THE TYPES OF FOOD FED TO YOUR PET CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS DIGESTIVE UPSETS.

Start with one food at a time, checking that each new addition is well tolerated, until you know what your guinea pig digests well. Once you establish your pet's routine, please be consistent.

Follow these guidelines:

Daily:
Give your pet a combination of a least 3 of the following, in a minimum total amount of 1 heaping cup per pound (500 grams) of body weight:
outer cabbage leaves, carrot tops, beet tops, kale, collards, dandelion greens (make sure they are pesticide and herbicide free), curly lettuce, chicory, dark leaf lettuce (not iceberg), all parts of broccoli, brussel sprouts, escarole, endive, radicchio, wheat grass, carrot, green pepper, squash, clover, parsley, etc.

Stay away from starchy foods such as legumes (beans and peas) and corn.

Occasionally:
Fruit can be fed with a few restrictions. Stay with high fiber fruits such as apples, oranges, pears/peaches, papaya, pineapple and strawberries. These are particularly good for your pet's vit C requirements. Stay away from sugary fruits such as bananas and grapes. Give approximately 1/4 cup per pound (0.5 kg) of body weight daily.

Avoid:
Grains such as oats, wheat, crackers, breakfast cereal, bread, pasta, etc. Completely avoid, nuts (fattening), salty or sugary snacks or chocolate. These items can lead to a variety of disease problems. You may see them advertised as treats, but try to stick to fresh foods as a treat for your guinea pig.

Fresh water
Provide cool fresh water daily. Water is most easily made available by the use of a water bottle equipped with a "sipper" tube. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and "backwashing" food particles into it. For this reason, it is imperative that all food and water containers be cleaned and disinfected daily. Be sure your guinea pig is used to his water container, and offer a separate dish if you are unsure he is drinking. Guinea pigs that eat large quantities of vegetables will drink less as they satisfy their water intake with these foods.


Handling
Generally, guinea pigs are docile, non-aggressive animals. They rarely bite or scratch when handled. They usually voice their protest simply by letting out a high-pitched squeal. They may, however, struggle when being picked up or restrained. Extreme care should be taken not to injure them during handling. The guinea pig should be approached with both hands. One hand is placed under the guinea pig's chest and abdomen, while the other hand supports its hindquarters. Adults, and especially pregnant females, should receive careful attention to gentle, yet firm and total support.


Housing
Housing accommodations provided for pet guinea pigs are limited only by one's imagination, ingenuity, and budget. There is no single correct way to house your guinea pig as long as the well being of your pet is considered. Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy pets.

Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The latter three materials are preferred since they resist corrosion. Wood should not be used due to difficulty in cleaning and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. Many softer plastics are also easily destroyed by gnawing. Ideally, the enclosure should have three sides open for adequate ventilation, and as such aquaria are not recommended. The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof. In addition, the cage must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards.

The size of the enclosure should allow for normal guinea pig activity, and the bigger the better. Breeding animals should be provided with extra space. The enclosure can remain opened on the top if the sides are at least 10 inches high, as long as other family pets such as dogs or cats are not a threat. We routinely house guinea pigs in large rabbit cages, and find them to be ideal for cleaning and safety and space (approx:4 feet by 2 feet wide by 18" high).

Guinea Pigs are nervous by nature, and may jump or panic if startled. They feel much more secure if provided with a place to hide. This can be easily accomplished by providing a cardboard box within the enclosure, with one side open to the guinea pig, and all the other sides closed. Another solution is to provide your pet with a "hammock style" roof by threading a towel through half of his cage, so he can easily hide underneath it. You may also find he sleeps in his hiding place most of the time, and as such you may want to provide a towel or blanket in this spot. Cage flooring should be solid. Solid flooring can be easily maintained if appropriate substrate and bedding materials are used. We recommend many layers of newspaper, brown paper or other paper. This way several layers can be rolled up daily in order to remove fecal pellets, urine, hair and uneaten fresh foods. Because paper can be a bit slippery for your pet, it is recommended to provide a soft skid-free surface in part of his cage, ideally where he spends most of his time. The use of a towel, paper towels or dust free bedding is ideal.

Some people use wire mesh flooring, which they believe, provides a cleaner environment and easier maintenance, but many result in injuries to the feet and hocks. Housing on wire over long periods of time often results in footpad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on fecal soiled wire. Broken legs are common in guinea pigs that fall through the wire mesh and panic to escape. If you insist on using wire flooring, provide a solid platform as a resting place in at least half the area of the cage. Remember to include a hiding spot in this area.

Bedding materials must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. Acceptable beddings include layers of paper (see above), towels or blankets, shredded paper, or recycled newsprint litters such as "Carefresh" or "Yesterdays news". *

Ground corncob is not recommended as it may harbor fungal spores, and can be eaten by your pet, causing digestive problems. Cedar and pine shavings have been associated with causing respiratory difficulty and liver disease in some guinea pigs and therefore should not be used. Saw dust should also be avoided since not only is it particularly dusty, bit it tends to accumulate within the external genitalia of male guinea pigs.

If you bed the entire floor of your guinea pigs cage with a recycled litter pellet, it may be hard to evaluate the quality and quantity of his stool and urine. As well, he may ingest particles of it when he eats his fresh foods. We recommend using recycled litters either in one corner of the cage or his litter, but not throughout the entire enclosure.

The environment in the vicinity of the pet's cage is another important consideration. Because of their sensitive nature, guinea pigs are more comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet spot away from noise, excitement and other such stresses. Also be sure to select a location away from direct sunlight and avoid cold damp areas. Guinea pigs thrive in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental changes should be prevented, especially high temperatures and humidity. Since they are nocturnal (active at night), guinea pigs require quiet periods during the day (when we are active around them) in order to rest. Since guinea pigs are social creatures, more than one animal may be safely housed together. In addition, males and females can remain in the same enclosure indefinitely. However, new males may occasionally fight if in the presence of a female. Older, dominant animals may also chew on the ears or hair of subordinate cagemates.

Breeding
The single most important consideration regarding guinea pig breeding is that the female guinea pig (sow) should be bred between four and seven months of age if she is to be bred at all. If the first breeding is delayed much beyond this time, serious, and often fatal, problems with delivery may result. The reason for this is that the pelvis of the guinea pig fuses at this early age, which narrows the birth canal, preventing the babies from passing through easily. Males (boars) should be at least four months of age before breeding.

The sow's estrus cycle ("heat") lasts 14 to 19 days. The actual period in which the sow is receptive to the boar for breeding is approximately eight to fifteen hours during this cycle. Sow's often return to 'heat" within a few hours after giving birth. This time is known as "postpartum estrus" which means that she can be nursing one litter while being pregnant with another.

Pregnancy lasts between 63 to 70 days. The gestation period is shorter with larger litters, and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long when compared to other rodents. Pregnant sows exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the latter stages of pregnancy. Her body weight may actually double during pregnancy. The time of delivery is difficult to assess in guinea pigs due to the relatively long gestation period and lack of nest building by the sow. Within one week prior to delivery, a slight widening of the pelvic area can be noted. This is the separation of the pelvis, which if does not occur, can cause the delivery problems mentioned previously. If the pelvis does not separate, as in sows that are bred past seven months of age, delivery of the young may be impossible without a caesarean section.

An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six, with an average of three to four. First time litters are usually very small. Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.

The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and with their eyes open. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring; she does not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young can eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.



Non-Infectious Conditions

Slobbers, Dental Malocclusion
Slobbers is a condition where the fur under the jaw and down the neck remains wet from the constant drooling of saliva. The primary cause for this condition is overgrowth of the guinea pig's premolars and/or molars. Most often this occurs in older guinea pigs (2-3 years of age), and usually involves the premolars (the most forward positioned cheek teeth). The overgrowth is due to genetic factors that result in improper alignment of the teeth. Excess selenium in the diet has also been incriminated.

Guinea pigs teeth are constantly growing, which means that if improperly aligned, they do not wear down evenly. The overgrown piece of the tooth (that which is not being worn down during normal chewing) causes injury to the guinea pig's tongue or cheek, resulting in an inability or unwillingness to chew and swallow food. This may or may not cause drooling down the chin and neck, but often results in severe weight loss, pain and mouth ulceration.

A veterinarian must be consulted as soon as this condition is suspected. The diagnosis is confirmed by visual examination of the mouth. Correction of the problem involves trimming or filing of the overgrown teeth. Dental work in the mouth of a guinea pig is difficult due to the extremely small mouth opening and must be attended to by a veterinarian with expertise in this field. Depending on the how serious the condition, recovery may involve painkillers until the mouth ulcers are healed, supplementation with fluid therapy, supplemental vitamins and force feedings. If GI stasis has occurred, hospitalizing your pet may be recommended.

This is no permanent solution or correction to this problem. Periodic trimming or filing of the teeth is usually necessary depending on your guinea pig and how often the overgrowth occurs. A correction of the diet may also be in order if an elevated selenium level is suspected. Guinea pigs with this problem should not be bred since dental malocclusion is often hereditary.

Gastro-intestinal Stasis:
Fiber in a cavy's diet is responsible for proper gastro-intestinal motility (contractions of the stomach and intestine which move food down the system). Any factor that contributes to decreasing the proportion of fiber in the stomach or intestines will cause gastro-intestinal stasis (GIS). Excessive ingestion of fur is one of these factors.

Guinea pig digestion is relatively slow and ingested material can remain in the stomach for more than 3 days. When your cavy licks himself, he swallows fur (in especially large amounts during spring and fall sheds). This fur will accumulate in the stomach, which is a normal process, but sometimes, when the fur is not mixed with sufficient fiber and fluid, it can form a pasty clump. Guinea pigs do not have the ability to vomit, and so cannot bring up their stomach contents. If enough of this pasty clump accumulates, the stomach motility will slow down. Your pet feels his stomach is full and he will stop eating; this further slows digestion, which will eventually stop.

Initially the stools may appear clumped or they may be linked together with strands of fur. Eventually they become smaller and smaller until they are not produced altogether.

Your pet MAY still appear active, alert and lively for up to the first week of this condition, even if he is not eating. Don't be deceived: he has a serious condition and you should seek medical attention immediately. If tended to early, your cavy can be treated medically and the condition resolved with a combination of force feedings, fluids and supportive medications. If the condition is allowed to progress, long hospital stays and, occasionally, surgery will be necessary to alleviate the problem. This condition can be fatal so seek help early on.

The best prevention of gastro-intestinal stasis is a diet high in fiber (see section on diet) and daily brushing (especially during shedding periods) with a wire "slicker" type brush. And don't forget exercise, it is important your cavy gets time out of his cage on a daily basis as it keeps his or her digestive tract working well.

Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency)
As discussed in the section on diet, guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C and must receive an adequate supply from outside food sources. Lack of sufficient Vitamin C in the diet results in scurvy.

The symptoms of scurvy include poor appetite; swollen, painful joints and ribs; reluctance to move; poor bone and teeth development, and spontaneous bleeding, especially from the gums, into joints, and in muscle. If left untreated this disease can be fatal, especially to rapidly growing young guinea pigs, and to pregnant females. In addition, sub clinical deficiencies often predispose animals to other diseases.

The mandatory level of vitamin C is supplemented in commercial guinea pig pelleted rations. However, with improper storage and handling these pellets lose their potency rapidly. In fact, even when properly stored in a cool, dry environment, fresh pellets lose up to half of their potency in only six weeks or so due to degradation of the vitamin. For this reason, further supplementation is recommended (see section on diet).

Contact a veterinarian at the first sign of this condition for early diagnosis and treatment. These animals must be treated early with supplemental vitamin C (given in food, water or by injection) in order to reverse the symptoms.

Barbering (Hair Chewing)
Hair loss is a common problem in guinea pigs. "Barbering" is just one of the many causes of it. This bad habit occurs when guinea pigs chew on the hair coats of other guinea pigs that are lower than them in the social "pecking order." The dominant cavy, and main culprit, is identified by his or her normal full hair coat while others have areas of alopecia (hair loss). There is no treatment for this condition except separating out the problem guinea pig if it becomes a serious problem.

Hair loss or hair thinning can occur for a number of other reasons as well. It is a common phenomenon among sows that are repeatedly bred or in weak, newly weaned juvenile guinea pigs. Certain fungal diseases and external parasite infestations also present hair loss problems. These specific problems are addressed in later sections.

Heat stress or Heat stroke
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures above 85 degrees (29° C), high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade and ventilation, overcrowding, and other stresses are additional predisposing problems.

Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, reluctance to move, convulsions and, ultimately, death. This is a treatable condition if recognized early. Heat stressed guinea pigs should be moved to a cool area, and can be misted with cool water, bathed in cool water, or have rubbing alcohol applied to their footpads. Once this first aid measure is accomplished, veterinary assistance should be sought. Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade and proper ventilation. In addition, cool misting of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice can be directed towards the pet's cage. If indoors, air conditioning during the heat of the summer provides the best relief. Keeping your guinea pig cool is of the utmost importance.

Disease Conditions

Pneumonia
Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig. Respiratory infections are caused by a number of viral and bacterial agents including Streptococcal pneumoniae, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and a gram-positive diplococcus. Many of the disease causing organisms inhabit the respiratory tracts of clinically normal guinea pigs. Conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry will often predispose a pet to an opportunistic infection with one or more of these agents. Symptoms of pneumonia may include dyspnea (difficulty breathing), discharge from the nose and eyes, lethargy, and lack of appetite. In some cases, sudden death will occur without any of these signs.

Occasionally, middle or inner ear infections accompany respiratory disease in guinea pigs. Additional symptoms in these cases include incoordination, torticollis (twisting of the neck), circling to one side, and rolling. Veterinary consultation should be sought when a guinea pig exhibits any of the above symptoms. A bacterial culture with antibiotic sensitivity of the throat and/or nasal discharge will assist the veterinarian in the selection of an appropriate antibiotic. Aggressive antibiotic therapy in addition to supportive care of the patient may be necessary to get the condition under control. Unfortunately, even though elimination of the symptoms is often possible with appropriate therapy, eradication of the causative bacteria is not.

Bacterial Enteritis (Intestinal Infections)
A number of bacteria are capable of causing infections of the gastrointestinal tract in guinea pigs. Some of these bacteria are introduced through contaminated greens or vegetables or in contaminated water. One of the most common bacteria that cause intestinal disease in guinea pigs is Salmonella spp. Other bacterial species that may cause diarrhea and enteritis are Yersinia pseudotuberculosis, E. coli, Arizona spp., and Clostridium spp. In addition to diarrhea, other common symptoms associated with intestinal disease are lethargy and weight loss. In other cases, however, sudden death may occur before expression of these signs.

A veterinarian may elect to use aggressive antibiotic therapy and supportive care to treat this condition. A bacterial culture of the patient's stool with antibiotic sensitivity will greatly assist the veterinarian in choosing an appropriate antibiotic to use. Keeping your guinea pig on a diet high in fiber, as mentioned in the section on diet, will help to reduce the incidence of this condition.

Bacterial Pododermatitis (Foot Pad Infection)
Severe infections of the footpads are very common among guinea pigs housed in cages with wire flooring. Fecal soiling of the wire potentiates the problem. The guinea pig's front feet are most vulnerable to this condition.

Symptoms of this condition include swelling of the affected feet, lameness, and reluctance to move. Improved sanitation and cage floor alterations are the initial steps in correcting the problem. In addition, the feet themselves should be treated by a veterinarian. Topical dressing with an antibiotic and periodic bandaging is often required. Depending on the severity of the damage, injectable antibiotics may also be necessary. Therapy may have to be carried out for a lengthy period of time to get full recovery. Unfortunately, a consequence of this condition is arthritis.


External Parasites

Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live within the hair coats of infected animals. Both adults and eggs are found attached to hair shafts of affected pets. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that infest the top layers of the skin in affected animals. Guinea pig lice and mites are not known to parasitize man.

Mites:
Mite infestations are usually more severe than lice. A specific mite, Trixacarus cavie, causes serious infestations in pet guinea pigs. This sarcoptic mite lives in the outer layers of skin causing an intense itching and scratching with considerable hair loss. In some cases, they are present without the itch and scratching, but only hair loss and crusting of the skin. In other cases, the infestation and irritation is so severe that the pet causes significant self-inflicted wounds and exhibits wild running and circling behaviour.

A veterinarian can diagnose this mite infestation by performing skin scrapings of affected areas and viewing them under the microscope. Successful treatment consists of two to three injections of a specific antiparasitic drug at approximately two week intervals. In the meantime, if wood shavings are used as bedding or litter, it should be replaced with paper toweling to make your pet more comfortable, and his entire environment must be cleaned to prevent re-infestation. Transmission of Trixacarus cavie mites can occur only through direct contact between infested and non infested guinea pigs. Therefore, guinea pigs are not likely to harbor this parasite unless they are recent additions or had previous exposure to mite-infested guinea pigs.

Lice:
Lice infestations often go unnoticed. However, heavy infestations are usually accompanied with excessive itching, scratching and some hair loss. Scabbing on or around the ears may also be evident. Guinea pigs have two types of biting lice that may parasitize them. Both irritate and abrade the skin's surface and feed off the bodily fluids that exude through the superficial wounds they create.

A veterinarian can confirm the diagnosis of lice infestation by examination of the hair coat as well as microscopic examination of hairs from affected animals. Treatment is usually in the form of an insecticidal shampoo, which is prescribed by the veterinarian.

As with mites, lice transmission occurs through direct contact with infested guinea pigs. Therefore, pet guinea pigs are not likely to have this parasite unless they had previous exposure to lice-infested guinea pigs.

For your pet's sake, be sure that any guinea pig(s) your pet comes in contact with is healthy and free of these and other parasites.

Guinea Pig Sensitivity To Certain Antibiotics

Guinea pigs are very sensitive to certain classes of antibiotics. For this reason, never attempt treatment of your pet guinea pig at home without prior consultation with a veterinarian. Many antibiotics, which are safe for other animals, have been shown to be lethal to guinea pigs, whether given orally or by injection. In addition, even some topical antibiotics can produce serious detrimental results.

A partial list of potentially harmful antibiotics includes: ampicillin, penicillin, bacitracin, gentamicin, erythromycin, lincomycin, clindamycin, vancomycin and sometimes tetracyclines. Even if an antibiotic is not on this list, it does not ensure that it is safe to use. When improperly administered, any antibiotic can produce detrimental and often lethal results. The primary mechanism behind this often-lethal effect is a dramatic alteration of the normal microbial balance in the gastrointestinal tract. In addition to affecting the disease-causing bacteria in the body, they also interfere with the normal beneficial bacteria in the guinea pig's digestive system. Guinea pigs have very delicate digestive systems, so any alteration can produce a cascade of events leading to serious illness or death. As well as causing disruption of the bacterial balance, these alterations also result in the production of harmful chemicals in the guinea pig's body. Other antibiotics cause direct toxic effects to the guinea pig without initially disrupting the digestive system, often proving to be rapidly fatal.

Whenever a veterinarian prescribes any antibiotic, always supplement your guinea pig with a pro-biotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe a product that replaces beneficial bacteria, such as "Benebac". If not, you can supplement your guinea pigs diet with about one-half teaspoon (2.5 cc) of plain yogurt given twice daily. This therapy should continue for several days past the end of the antibiotic therapy. Pro-biotics helps augment and replace the beneficial intestinal bacteria that are compromised by the antibiotic treatment.

The bottom line is never attempt treatment at home without first consulting with your veterinarian.




Fast Facts

Scientific name....Cavia porcellus

Average Life Span....4-5 years

Environmental Temperature Range.....65-75°F (18°-23°C)

Desired Relative Humidity Range....40% - 70 %


Breeding Age (1st mating).....3-4 months (male)
.... 3-7 months (female) (not after 7 months)

Gestation Period....average between 63 & 70 days

Litter Size....1-6 (range), 3-4 (average)

Weaning Age....2-3 weeks




History

The guinea pig, or cavy, is a docile rodent native to the Andes Mountain Range area of South America. They were first domesticated by the Andean Indians of Peru, who used them as a food source and as a sacrificial offering to Incan Indian gods. During the 18th century, Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, where they were selectively bred by fanciers. The guinea pig entered the research laboratory in the 18th century, and has since made significant contributions to the scientific community. To this day, the guinea pig remains a favorite pet among children due to their docile behavior; ease of handling amd quiet nature.

Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of colors and coat types from which to choose. Four primary varieties are commonly encountered in the pet industry. The Shorthair English is characterized by having a uniformly short hair coat. The Abyssinian has whorls or rosettes in their short, rough, wiry coat. The Silky is a large variety distinguished by its medium length silky hair. The Peruvian is recognized by its very long silky hair. All types are commonly kept as pets.




Diet
Good quality food and fresh, clean water must be readily available at all times.

Diet Guinea pigs tend to be creatures of habit, and therefore do not tolerate changes in the presentation of their food or water or changes in the taste, odor, texture or form of the food itself. Pet owners should avoid making radical changes in the food or water containers as well. Any sudden change in routine can result in the pet refusing its food and water, which can be disconcerting and ultimately dangerous. If the diet you are presently feeding your guinea pig is very different from our recommendations, make changes gradually.

All foods should be provided in heavy ceramic crocks that resist both tipping and chewing. The crocks should be high enough to keep bedding and fecal pellets out of the food, but low enough for easy access by the animal.

Pellets:
Commercially available pelleted chows provide all the essential nutrients required by guinea pigs, as long as the pellets are fresh and wholesome when offered. A good quality guinea pig pellet should be offered daily with both the quantity and quality closely monitored.

· Young Guinea Pigs require more energy for their rapid growth and development and as such can be fed a "free-choice" (i.e. as much as they want) dish of pellets specially manufactured for their needs. Growth formula pellets are usually alfalfa based, with high fiber (20%), low protein (18%).

· Adult (over 6 months) and older guinea pigs should eat a timothy-based pellet. These pellets are designed with low protein (14%) and higher fiber content (28%). Their unrestricted use can result in a myriad of health problems including obesity with concurrent heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, bladder stones and kidney disease. Our recommendations for pellet rations take into account age, weight and lifestyle. Unless your veterinarian advises you otherwise, a guideline for your adult guinea pig can be estimated by his weight:

500 gr -1 kg body weight: Feed 1/8 cup per day

1 kg - 2 kg body weight: Feed ¼ cup per day

DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if pellets are all eaten before the next day.

A final note on pellets: make sure any pellet you buy is fresh, preferably sold in a sealed bag with a best-before date on it. We do not recommend bulk bought pellets, as it is impossible to determine their freshness. Buy small quantities and keep it refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets may cause your guinea pig to stop eating. If you must buy more than a two month supply at a time, freeze them.

These pellets contain approximately 800 mg of vitamin C per kilogram of ration. Do not feed rabbit pellets as a substitute for guinea pig pellets. They are not equivalent in nutritive value. Unlike rabbits, and most mammals for that matter, guinea pigs require a high level of folic acid and vitamin C. Guinea pig diets are uniquely formulated with these requirements in mind, whereas rabbit pellets are not.

Vit C:
Unlike most mammals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own vitamin C; therefore, they must receive it from an outside source. Pelleted guinea pig diets are supplemented with this essential vitamin. However, even when properly stored in a cool, dry place, fresh pellets lose about one-half of their vitamin C content due to degradation within six weeks of manufacture. For this reason, we also recommend further vitamin C supplementation in the water as follows: 50 milligrams ascorbic acid (human vitamin C syrup or powder or pills) added to 1 cup of drinking water, made up fresh every 12 hours. Alternatively, your guinea pig can be offered one handful of fresh kale or cabbage or one-quarter of an orange daily. See the section on diet regarding fresh vegetables.

Timothy or Grass Hay:
Like rabbits, guinea pigs require a high level of fiber to promote normal digestion and to prevent gastro-intestinal stasis (see the section on gastro-intestinal stasis for more information) We recommend all guinea pigs have free choice access to fresh timothy, grass or oat hay daily. We prefer the loose, long strands of hay as opposed to the pressed cubes. These products also contain proteins and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, as it has been shown to be too high in calcium and carbohydrates, which may lead to serious health problems, and digestive upsets.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruits:
We like guinea pigs to get greens and lots of them. Pick the dark coloured fibrous greens, which are rich in a variety of nutrients. Remember to include your Vit C rich fruits and vegetables as well. Feed a minimum of 3 types daily to get your cavy used to variety. In this way, if changes have to be made, they are tolerated more easily.

ANY MAJOR CHANGE IN THE TYPES OF FOOD FED TO YOUR PET CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS DIGESTIVE UPSETS.

Start with one food at a time, checking that each new addition is well tolerated, until you know what your guinea pig digests well. Once you establish your pet's routine, please be consistent.

Follow these guidelines:

Daily:
Give your pet a combination of a least 3 of the following, in a minimum total amount of 1 heaping cup per pound (500 grams) of body weight:
outer cabbage leaves, carrot tops, beet tops, kale, collards, dandelion greens (make sure they are pesticide and herbicide free), curly lettuce, chicory, dark leaf lettuce (not iceberg), all parts of broccoli, brussel sprouts, escarole, endive, radicchio, wheat grass, carrot, green pepper, squash, clover, parsley, etc.

Stay away from starchy foods such as legumes (beans and peas) and corn.

Occasionally:
Fruit can be fed with a few restrictions. Stay with high fiber fruits such as apples, oranges, pears/peaches, papaya, pineapple and strawberries. These are particularly good for your pet's vit C requirements. Stay away from sugary fruits such as bananas and grapes. Give approximately 1/4 cup per pound (0.5 kg) of body weight daily.

Avoid:
Grains such as oats, wheat, crackers, breakfast cereal, bread, pasta, etc. Completely avoid, nuts (fattening), salty or sugary snacks or chocolate. These items can lead to a variety of disease problems. You may see them advertised as treats, but try to stick to fresh foods as a treat for your guinea pig.

Fresh water
Provide cool fresh water daily. Water is most easily made available by the use of a water bottle equipped with a "sipper" tube. Guinea pigs tend to contaminate and clog their water bottles by chewing on the end of the sipper tube and "backwashing" food particles into it. For this reason, it is imperative that all food and water containers be cleaned and disinfected daily. Be sure your guinea pig is used to his water container, and offer a separate dish if you are unsure he is drinking. Guinea pigs that eat large quantities of vegetables will drink less as they satisfy their water intake with these foods.


Handling
Generally, guinea pigs are docile, non-aggressive animals. They rarely bite or scratch when handled. They usually voice their protest simply by letting out a high-pitched squeal. They may, however, struggle when being picked up or restrained. Extreme care should be taken not to injure them during handling. The guinea pig should be approached with both hands. One hand is placed under the guinea pig's chest and abdomen, while the other hand supports its hindquarters. Adults, and especially pregnant females, should receive careful attention to gentle, yet firm and total support.


Housing
Housing accommodations provided for pet guinea pigs are limited only by one's imagination, ingenuity, and budget. There is no single correct way to house your guinea pig as long as the well being of your pet is considered. Adequate housing is a major factor in the maintenance of healthy pets.

Guinea pigs can be housed within enclosures made of wire, stainless steel, durable plastic, or glass. The latter three materials are preferred since they resist corrosion. Wood should not be used due to difficulty in cleaning and susceptibility to destructive gnawing. Many softer plastics are also easily destroyed by gnawing. Ideally, the enclosure should have three sides open for adequate ventilation, and as such aquaria are not recommended. The design and construction of the enclosure must be escape-proof. In addition, the cage must be free of sharp edges and other potential hazards.

The size of the enclosure should allow for normal guinea pig activity, and the bigger the better. Breeding animals should be provided with extra space. The enclosure can remain opened on the top if the sides are at least 10 inches high, as long as other family pets such as dogs or cats are not a threat. We routinely house guinea pigs in large rabbit cages, and find them to be ideal for cleaning and safety and space (approx:4 feet by 2 feet wide by 18" high).

Guinea Pigs are nervous by nature, and may jump or panic if startled. They feel much more secure if provided with a place to hide. This can be easily accomplished by providing a cardboard box within the enclosure, with one side open to the guinea pig, and all the other sides closed. Another solution is to provide your pet with a "hammock style" roof by threading a towel through half of his cage, so he can easily hide underneath it. You may also find he sleeps in his hiding place most of the time, and as such you may want to provide a towel or blanket in this spot. Cage flooring should be solid. Solid flooring can be easily maintained if appropriate substrate and bedding materials are used. We recommend many layers of newspaper, brown paper or other paper. This way several layers can be rolled up daily in order to remove fecal pellets, urine, hair and uneaten fresh foods. Because paper can be a bit slippery for your pet, it is recommended to provide a soft skid-free surface in part of his cage, ideally where he spends most of his time. The use of a towel, paper towels or dust free bedding is ideal.

Some people use wire mesh flooring, which they believe, provides a cleaner environment and easier maintenance, but many result in injuries to the feet and hocks. Housing on wire over long periods of time often results in footpad and hock infections from abrasive rubbing on fecal soiled wire. Broken legs are common in guinea pigs that fall through the wire mesh and panic to escape. If you insist on using wire flooring, provide a solid platform as a resting place in at least half the area of the cage. Remember to include a hiding spot in this area.

Bedding materials must be clean, nontoxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace. Acceptable beddings include layers of paper (see above), towels or blankets, shredded paper, or recycled newsprint litters such as "Carefresh" or "Yesterdays news". *

Ground corncob is not recommended as it may harbor fungal spores, and can be eaten by your pet, causing digestive problems. Cedar and pine shavings have been associated with causing respiratory difficulty and liver disease in some guinea pigs and therefore should not be used. Saw dust should also be avoided since not only is it particularly dusty, bit it tends to accumulate within the external genitalia of male guinea pigs.

If you bed the entire floor of your guinea pigs cage with a recycled litter pellet, it may be hard to evaluate the quality and quantity of his stool and urine. As well, he may ingest particles of it when he eats his fresh foods. We recommend using recycled litters either in one corner of the cage or his litter, but not throughout the entire enclosure.

The environment in the vicinity of the pet's cage is another important consideration. Because of their sensitive nature, guinea pigs are more comfortable and relaxed when housed in a quiet spot away from noise, excitement and other such stresses. Also be sure to select a location away from direct sunlight and avoid cold damp areas. Guinea pigs thrive in a dry, cool environment with adequate ventilation. Drastic environmental changes should be prevented, especially high temperatures and humidity. Since they are nocturnal (active at night), guinea pigs require quiet periods during the day (when we are active around them) in order to rest. Since guinea pigs are social creatures, more than one animal may be safely housed together. In addition, males and females can remain in the same enclosure indefinitely. However, new males may occasionally fight if in the presence of a female. Older, dominant animals may also chew on the ears or hair of subordinate cagemates.

Breeding
The single most important consideration regarding guinea pig breeding is that the female guinea pig (sow) should be bred between four and seven months of age if she is to be bred at all. If the first breeding is delayed much beyond this time, serious, and often fatal, problems with delivery may result. The reason for this is that the pelvis of the guinea pig fuses at this early age, which narrows the birth canal, preventing the babies from passing through easily. Males (boars) should be at least four months of age before breeding.

The sow's estrus cycle ("heat") lasts 14 to 19 days. The actual period in which the sow is receptive to the boar for breeding is approximately eight to fifteen hours during this cycle. Sow's often return to 'heat" within a few hours after giving birth. This time is known as "postpartum estrus" which means that she can be nursing one litter while being pregnant with another.

Pregnancy lasts between 63 to 70 days. The gestation period is shorter with larger litters, and longer with small litters. This duration of pregnancy is relatively long when compared to other rodents. Pregnant sows exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the latter stages of pregnancy. Her body weight may actually double during pregnancy. The time of delivery is difficult to assess in guinea pigs due to the relatively long gestation period and lack of nest building by the sow. Within one week prior to delivery, a slight widening of the pelvic area can be noted. This is the separation of the pelvis, which if does not occur, can cause the delivery problems mentioned previously. If the pelvis does not separate, as in sows that are bred past seven months of age, delivery of the young may be impossible without a caesarean section.

An uncomplicated delivery usually takes about one-half hour with an average of five minutes between babies. Litter sizes range between one and six, with an average of three to four. First time litters are usually very small. Unfortunately, abortions and stillbirths are not uncommon with guinea pigs.

The young are very well developed at birth. They weigh between 50 and 100 grams and have a full hair coat. Babies are even born with teeth and with their eyes open. Mothers are not very maternal in the raising of the offspring; she does not build a nest and even remains in a sitting position while nursing. The young can eat solid food and drink from a bowl shortly after birth, but it is recommended to allow them to nurse for three weeks before weaning.



Non-Infectious Conditions

Slobbers, Dental Malocclusion
Slobbers is a condition where the fur under the jaw and down the neck remains wet from the constant drooling of saliva. The primary cause for this condition is overgrowth of the guinea pig's premolars and/or molars. Most often this occurs in older guinea pigs (2-3 years of age), and usually involves the premolars (the most forward positioned cheek teeth). The overgrowth is due to genetic factors that result in improper alignment of the teeth. Excess selenium in the diet has also been incriminated.

Guinea pigs teeth are constantly growing, which means that if improperly aligned, they do not wear down evenly. The overgrown piece of the tooth (that which is not being worn down during normal chewing) causes injury to the guinea pig's tongue or cheek, resulting in an inability or unwillingness to chew and swallow food. This may or may not cause drooling down the chin and neck, but often results in severe weight loss, pain and mouth ulceration.

A veterinarian must be consulted as soon as this condition is suspected. The diagnosis is confirmed by visual examination of the mouth. Correction of the problem involves trimming or filing of the overgrown teeth. Dental work in the mouth of a guinea pig is difficult due to the extremely small mouth opening and must be attended to by a veterinarian with expertise in this field. Depending on the how serious the condition, recovery may involve painkillers until the mouth ulcers are healed, supplementation with fluid therapy, supplemental vitamins and force feedings. If GI stasis has occurred, hospitalizing your pet may be recommended.

This is no permanent solution or correction to this problem. Periodic trimming or filing of the teeth is usually necessary depending on your guinea pig and how often the overgrowth occurs. A correction of the diet may also be in order if an elevated selenium level is suspected. Guinea pigs with this problem should not be bred since dental malocclusion is often hereditary.

Gastro-intestinal Stasis:
Fiber in a cavy's diet is responsible for proper gastro-intestinal motility (contractions of the stomach and intestine which move food down the system). Any factor that contributes to decreasing the proportion of fiber in the stomach or intestines will cause gastro-intestinal stasis (GIS). Excessive ingestion of fur is one of these factors.

Guinea pig digestion is relatively slow and ingested material can remain in the stomach for more than 3 days. When your cavy licks himself, he swallows fur (in especially large amounts during spring and fall sheds). This fur will accumulate in the stomach, which is a normal process, but sometimes, when the fur is not mixed with sufficient fiber and fluid, it can form a pasty clump. Guinea pigs do not have the ability to vomit, and so cannot bring up their stomach contents. If enough of this pasty clump accumulates, the stomach motility will slow down. Your pet feels his stomach is full and he will stop eating; this further slows digestion, which will eventually stop.

Initially the stools may appear clumped or they may be linked together with strands of fur. Eventually they become smaller and smaller until they are not produced altogether.

Your pet MAY still appear active, alert and lively for up to the first week of this condition, even if he is not eating. Don't be deceived: he has a serious condition and you should seek medical attention immediately. If tended to early, your cavy can be treated medically and the condition resolved with a combination of force feedings, fluids and supportive medications. If the condition is allowed to progress, long hospital stays and, occasionally, surgery will be necessary to alleviate the problem. This condition can be fatal so seek help early on.

The best prevention of gastro-intestinal stasis is a diet high in fiber (see section on diet) and daily brushing (especially during shedding periods) with a wire "slicker" type brush. And don't forget exercise, it is important your cavy gets time out of his cage on a daily basis as it keeps his or her digestive tract working well.

Scurvy (Vitamin C deficiency)
As discussed in the section on diet, guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C and must receive an adequate supply from outside food sources. Lack of sufficient Vitamin C in the diet results in scurvy.

The symptoms of scurvy include poor appetite; swollen, painful joints and ribs; reluctance to move; poor bone and teeth development, and spontaneous bleeding, especially from the gums, into joints, and in muscle. If left untreated this disease can be fatal, especially to rapidly growing young guinea pigs, and to pregnant females. In addition, sub clinical deficiencies often predispose animals to other diseases.

The mandatory level of vitamin C is supplemented in commercial guinea pig pelleted rations. However, with improper storage and handling these pellets lose their potency rapidly. In fact, even when properly stored in a cool, dry environment, fresh pellets lose up to half of their potency in only six weeks or so due to degradation of the vitamin. For this reason, further supplementation is recommended (see section on diet).

Contact a veterinarian at the first sign of this condition for early diagnosis and treatment. These animals must be treated early with supplemental vitamin C (given in food, water or by injection) in order to reverse the symptoms.

Barbering (Hair Chewing)
Hair loss is a common problem in guinea pigs. "Barbering" is just one of the many causes of it. This bad habit occurs when guinea pigs chew on the hair coats of other guinea pigs that are lower than them in the social "pecking order." The dominant cavy, and main culprit, is identified by his or her normal full hair coat while others have areas of alopecia (hair loss). There is no treatment for this condition except separating out the problem guinea pig if it becomes a serious problem.

Hair loss or hair thinning can occur for a number of other reasons as well. It is a common phenomenon among sows that are repeatedly bred or in weak, newly weaned juvenile guinea pigs. Certain fungal diseases and external parasite infestations also present hair loss problems. These specific problems are addressed in later sections.

Heat stress or Heat stroke
Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or heavily furred. Environmental temperatures above 85 degrees (29° C), high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade and ventilation, overcrowding, and other stresses are additional predisposing problems.

Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, reluctance to move, convulsions and, ultimately, death. This is a treatable condition if recognized early. Heat stressed guinea pigs should be moved to a cool area, and can be misted with cool water, bathed in cool water, or have rubbing alcohol applied to their footpads. Once this first aid measure is accomplished, veterinary assistance should be sought. Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade and proper ventilation. In addition, cool misting of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice can be directed towards the pet's cage. If indoors, air conditioning during the heat of the summer provides the best relief. Keeping your guinea pig cool is of the utmost importance.

Disease Conditions

Pneumonia
Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of the pet guinea pig. Respiratory infections are caused by a number of viral and bacterial agents including Streptococcal pneumoniae, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and a gram-positive diplococcus. Many of the disease causing organisms inhabit the respiratory tracts of clinically normal guinea pigs. Conditions of stress, inadequate diet, and improper husbandry will often predispose a pet to an opportunistic infection with one or more of these agents. Symptoms of pneumonia may include dyspnea (difficulty breathing), discharge from the nose and eyes, lethargy, and lack of appetite. In some cases, sudden death will occur without any of these signs.

Occasionally, middle or inner ear infections accompany respiratory disease in guinea pigs. Additional symptoms in these cases include incoordination, torticollis (twisting of the neck), circling to one side, and rolling. Veterinary consultation should be sought when a guinea pig exhibits any of the above symptoms. A bacterial culture with antibiotic sensitivity of the throat and/or nasal discharge will assist the veterinarian in the selection of an appropriate antibiotic. Aggressive antibiotic therapy in addition to supportive care of the patient may be necessary to get the condition under control. Unfortunately, even though elimination of the symptoms is often possible with appropriate therapy, eradication of the causative bacteria is not.

Bacterial Enteritis (Intestinal Infections)
A number of bacteria are capable of causing infections of the gastrointestinal tract in guinea pigs. Some of these bacteria are introduced through contaminated greens or vegetables or in contaminated water. One of the most common bacteria that cause intestinal disease in guinea pigs is Salmonella spp. Other bacterial species that may cause diarrhea and enteritis are Yersinia pseudotuberculosis, E. coli, Arizona spp., and Clostridium spp. In addition to diarrhea, other common symptoms associated with intestinal disease are lethargy and weight loss. In other cases, however, sudden death may occur before expression of these signs.

A veterinarian may elect to use aggressive antibiotic therapy and supportive care to treat this condition. A bacterial culture of the patient's stool with antibiotic sensitivity will greatly assist the veterinarian in choosing an appropriate antibiotic to use. Keeping your guinea pig on a diet high in fiber, as mentioned in the section on diet, will help to reduce the incidence of this condition.

Bacterial Pododermatitis (Foot Pad Infection)
Severe infections of the footpads are very common among guinea pigs housed in cages with wire flooring. Fecal soiling of the wire potentiates the problem. The guinea pig's front feet are most vulnerable to this condition.

Symptoms of this condition include swelling of the affected feet, lameness, and reluctance to move. Improved sanitation and cage floor alterations are the initial steps in correcting the problem. In addition, the feet themselves should be treated by a veterinarian. Topical dressing with an antibiotic and periodic bandaging is often required. Depending on the severity of the damage, injectable antibiotics may also be necessary. Therapy may have to be carried out for a lengthy period of time to get full recovery. Unfortunately, a consequence of this condition is arthritis.


External Parasites

Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live within the hair coats of infected animals. Both adults and eggs are found attached to hair shafts of affected pets. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that infest the top layers of the skin in affected animals. Guinea pig lice and mites are not known to parasitize man.

Mites:
Mite infestations are usually more severe than lice. A specific mite, Trixacarus cavie, causes serious infestations in pet guinea pigs. This sarcoptic mite lives in the outer layers of skin causing an intense itching and scratching with considerable hair loss. In some cases, they are present without the itch and scratching, but only hair loss and crusting of the skin. In other cases, the infestation and irritation is so severe that the pet causes significant self-inflicted wounds and exhibits wild running and circling behaviour.

A veterinarian can diagnose this mite infestation by performing skin scrapings of affected areas and viewing them under the microscope. Successful treatment consists of two to three injections of a specific antiparasitic drug at approximately two week intervals. In the meantime, if wood shavings are used as bedding or litter, it should be replaced with paper toweling to make your pet more comfortable, and his entire environment must be cleaned to prevent re-infestation. Transmission of Trixacarus cavie mites can occur only through direct contact between infested and non infested guinea pigs. Therefore, guinea pigs are not likely to harbor this parasite unless they are recent additions or had previous exposure to mite-infested guinea pigs.

Lice:
Lice infestations often go unnoticed. However, heavy infestations are usually accompanied with excessive itching, scratching and some hair loss. Scabbing on or around the ears may also be evident. Guinea pigs have two types of biting lice that may parasitize them. Both irritate and abrade the skin's surface and feed off the bodily fluids that exude through the superficial wounds they create.

A veterinarian can confirm the diagnosis of lice infestation by examination of the hair coat as well as microscopic examination of hairs from affected animals. Treatment is usually in the form of an insecticidal shampoo, which is prescribed by the veterinarian.

As with mites, lice transmission occurs through direct contact with infested guinea pigs. Therefore, pet guinea pigs are not likely to have this parasite unless they had previous exposure to lice-infested guinea pigs.

For your pet's sake, be sure that any guinea pig(s) your pet comes in contact with is healthy and free of these and other parasites.

Guinea Pig Sensitivity To Certain Antibiotics

Guinea pigs are very sensitive to certain classes of antibiotics. For this reason, never attempt treatment of your pet guinea pig at home without prior consultation with a veterinarian. Many antibiotics, which are safe for other animals, have been shown to be lethal to guinea pigs, whether given orally or by injection. In addition, even some topical antibiotics can produce serious detrimental results.

A partial list of potentially harmful antibiotics includes: ampicillin, penicillin, bacitracin, gentamicin, erythromycin, lincomycin, clindamycin, vancomycin and sometimes tetracyclines. Even if an antibiotic is not on this list, it does not ensure that it is safe to use. When improperly administered, any antibiotic can produce detrimental and often lethal results. The primary mechanism behind this often-lethal effect is a dramatic alteration of the normal microbial balance in the gastrointestinal tract. In addition to affecting the disease-causing bacteria in the body, they also interfere with the normal beneficial bacteria in the guinea pig's digestive system. Guinea pigs have very delicate digestive systems, so any alteration can produce a cascade of events leading to serious illness or death. As well as causing disruption of the bacterial balance, these alterations also result in the production of harmful chemicals in the guinea pig's body. Other antibiotics cause direct toxic effects to the guinea pig without initially disrupting the digestive system, often proving to be rapidly fatal.

Whenever a veterinarian prescribes any antibiotic, always supplement your guinea pig with a pro-biotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe a product that replaces beneficial bacteria, such as "Benebac". If not, you can supplement your guinea pigs diet with about one-half teaspoon (2.5 cc) of plain yogurt given twice daily. This therapy should continue for several days past the end of the antibiotic therapy. Pro-biotics helps augment and replace the beneficial intestinal bacteria that are compromised by the antibiotic treatment.

The bottom line is never attempt treatment at home without first consulting with your veterinarian.




Fast Facts

Scientific name....Cavia porcellus

Average Life Span....4-5 years

Environmental Temperature Range.....65-75°F (18°-23°C)

Desired Relative Humidity Range....40% - 70 %


Breeding Age (1st mating).....3-4 months (male)
.... 3-7 months (female) (not after 7 months)

Gestation Period....average between 63 & 70 days

Litter Size....1-6 (range), 3-4 (average)

Weaning Age....2-3 weeks