does yellow algae increase the nitrate level in my tank ?

Question

I have a 55 gal marine tank that I just added a 750 Watt halide+cf light to. Naturally, yellow algae is growing like mad. I have 5 snails inside, but they got sick because of high nitrate levels (but they lived). I changed 50% water and replaced crushed coral with live sand, they're much happier now. I have live rock but not quite enough yet. Does the yellow algae hurt the tank quality ? How necessary is a UV sterilizer and will it remove 100% of the algae or just reduce it ? Will coraline algae still be able to grow witha UV sterilizer? I have a protein skimmer but not a refugium. Hope this is enough info. Thanks very much!!!

Answer 1

Actually it is quite the opposite. Algae eats nitrates. So high nitrates will cause high algae. If you can't keep nitrate levels down with a protein skimmer, your tank is probably overstocked. You might have to do some water changes to keep nitrates down until you can get a bigger tank or get rid of a few fish.

Answer 2

Yellow Algae

Answer 3

This is NOT, NOT, NOT algae. Yellow algae isn't algae at all but instead is actually diatoms and/or dinoflagellates. Generally, stronger lighting is considered to be a deterrent to yellow algae. The more a tank matures the less of a problem it will be. The yellow algae has been shown to be linked to high silica levels in the tank, but there is very little you can do to reduce the silica levels. As the tank matures the silica will slowly be replaced in the water chemistry with phosphorus in the form of phosphates. This will reduce and eventually even eliminate the yellow algae. Obviously there are too many factors going on to reliably estimate when this will happen in your tank.

Yes a UV sterilizer will kill the diatoms in a free floating stage, but will not remove colonies in the rck and on other surfaces so if that is your reason for one I say skip it.

MM

EDIT: Ken: While I'm not a marine biologist, I do hold a Doctorate in Limnology and wrote my thesis on freshwater aglae. Would you please, just for my own information forward some information on when this reclassification was reversed? I have read the page you copied your material from (http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/protista/dinoflaglh.html ) and it does not address this question, but when read in full does strongly support my contention that this is colonial zooxanthellae. Also, what specifically in the question makes you doubt what he is describing is colonies of zooxanthellae? It seems to match the discription perfectly to me and the question seem to indicate that this is a fairly new tank.

Answer 4

DanielleZ is correct and very informatve. Mustard algae is part of the green algae family. However as she stated, there is a yellow diatom. This will not grow as you have described.

Also, diatoms are not dinoflagellates as the gentleman above me stated. Ninety percent of all dinoflagellates are marine plankton. There are also many freshwater species, some of which have been found growing in snow. They may be photosynthetic or non-photosynthetic; about half the species fall into each category. The photosynthetic dinoflagellates are second only to diatoms as primary producers in coastal waters.

What you have described are not A number of photosynthetic dinoflagellates take up residence within other organisms as symbiotic partners. These zooxanthellae may be found in many marine invertebrates, including sponges, corals, jellyfish, and flatworms, as well as within protists, such as ciliates, foraminiferans, and colonial radiolarians. In each case, the host organism is able to swallow the dinoflagellate and incorporate it into its own tissues without harming it. The dinoflagellate then divides repeatedly to increase its numbers, and begins to manufacture carbohydrates which are provided to the host. The degree of interdependence varies greatly -- the sea anemone Anemonia can survive quite well without its zooxanthellae, while certain corals rely almost exclusively on the food from their symbionts, and build reefs much faster with the dinoflagellates present in their tissues.

Non-photosynthetic species of dinoflagellates feed on diatoms or other protists (including other dinoflagellates); the genus Noctiluca is large enough to eat fish eggs, and is able to swallow protists larger than itself. Some species will parasitize other organisms, such as zooplankton and other protists, filamentous algae, or fish.

Answer 5

Your nitrates should be around 40 ppm. How long has your tank been up and running? You should not do a 50% water change in any tank especially a salt water unless there is good cause. Yellow algae will not harm the water quality of your tank. There are many fish which eat this algae in salt water. A UV Sterilizer will keep the algae in check but will not totally eliminate it. Coralline algae should still grow in your tank. Coralline algae need optimal PH, alkalinity and calcium to grow. as far as a refugium, I don't have one on any of my tanks. Most people with reef tanks don't, unless they are really serious about breeding Seahorses, Peppermint Shrimps, Copepods & Amphipods.

if you wish to build your own, here is a good site:
saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa041400.htm

Remember your protein skimmer does NOT remove nitrates, it removed dissolved organic compounds.

Yellow algae or mustard algae is better known for growing on pool surfaces vs aquariums. It is actually a type of green algae, but has a different appearance and somewhat more difficult removal procedure. Yellow algae almost always form on pool surfaces, usually in shaded areas. It is, yellow-brown in color, has a slimy texture, and can most often be brushed away with a few vigorous strokes. Yellow algae is NOT a diatom. It is a green algae.
Background on algae:
Algae are mostly-photosynthetic organisms that sometimes resemble plants but are not plants, having no true roots, stems or leaves. Algae grow in freshwater and saltwater. Saltwater algae are sometimes referred to as "seaweed." Like plants, algae require light and nutrients to grow. We supply plenty of both in our aquariums, with several hours of aquarium lighting a day and nutrients like nitrates and phosphates from fish waste.

Algae come in many forms. There are microscopic, one-celled algae, filamentous algae that resemble hair, algae that grow in sheets, and macroalgae that look like plants. There are even algae that live inside the outer integument ("skin") or calcium shell of some corals, anemones, and other sessile invertebrates called zooxanthellae. There are slimy-looking algae that are often not algae at all, but a colony of primitive photosynthetic organisms known as cyanobacteria. There are also very hard-to-remove little dots of green that sometimes grow on aquarium panels which also are not algae, but diatom or radiolarian colonies (microscopic, one-celled, animals with hard shells) with algae incorporated in their matrix. With all that said, let us answer some common questions right up front:

Algae growth is inevitable in an aquarium.
Algae consume nutrients in the aquarium that if allowed to accumulate, are harmful to fish. Algae can be a good thing.
The presence of green algae in an aquarium indicates a healthy environment for fish.
There is absolutely no way to completely prevent algae from growing in an aquarium, without killing the other life in the tank.
Chemicals should never be used to control the growth of true algae in an aquarium, and should only be used in rare circumstances to control cyanobacteria.
Correcting a severe algae problem requires time and patience.
Natural methods of controlling algae are the best and most effective.

Algae removal from the tank panels can be done on an as-needed basis, but no more than once a week. Removing algae involves either correcting negative water conditions to control or slow excessive algae growth, or an age-old process known as "elbow grease" (scrubbing it off!). Algae removal in an aquarium should be done only when necessary. We have seen many aquariums where daily removal of algae resulted in fish that were so stressed, most had diseases and were dying. You should never remove all of the algae from your tank. Allowing some algae to grow in the aquarium can be beneficial to the aquatic environment. When algae is removed from aquarium side panels, care should be taken to select an algae scrubber that will not hurt the finish of an aquarium. Be careful not to get gravel caught in an algae scrubbing pad where it can scratch the aquarium. Never use household cleaning pads to remove algae. They contain fungicides that kill fish.

Your first mistake is boiling the water. Boiling water consentrates the nitrates in it causing algae to grow even faster. However, I've never heard of it growing within an hour Wow!

First, test the water you are filling up your tank with. Many public water supplies (our homes) have a concentration of nitrates at around 7ppm or higher. (Bottled water is no better).

This could be the start of your problem.
Be sure your tank is not within direct or indirect lighting such as a window or in a room where the lights are on constantly. Is you tank near a heat source. Sometimes we do not take into consideration a fishtank is near a heat register which can and does add additional temperature changes to your tank.

Did you clean the filter as well? Be sure the entire filter is cleaned and free of algae.

Use a razor or scraper and gently scrape all sides of your tank. Clean your gravel and return it to the tank as well. DO NOT wash the gravel in the tank. The residues of the algae will remain.

Since you have NO FISH I am assuming, use cold water to start your tank. Algae likes heat and light. Using cold water will prohibit growth. Allow your tank to run bringing it to room temperature. Then you can plug in your heater allowing your tank to run.

If you have a stick on thermometer, get yourself a floating one. The stick on thermometers pick up ambient air temperatures from OUTSIDE the tank and can be up to 10 degrees off. DON"T trust them. Try keeping your tank at 72 for a couple of days.

You can also purchase phosphorus pads for around $2.00 at your local pet store. These can be cut to fit with your filter and remove large amounts of phosphorus. These can be reused over and over just remember to rinse them out well when you clean your tank.

Test your water. Since you have not gone thru the cycle process allow your tank to run. This should really help with the algae. If you find your water quality is all your tank isn't near a heat or light source, ok but still getting algae turn the temperature down or off and let it run. You will want to scrape the sides of the tank and do a water change no more than 20% every other day. This should only be done if the algae returns in a heavy form.

If you need any more help, you can im or email me.

Answer 6

Yes it does. Yellow algae is terrible for causing nitrates. It also kills anything that touches it as it is highly toxic.