Growing Potatoes
Potatoes are grouped according to their season of harvest ie; earlies, second earlies and maincrop. In general, early varieties are lower yielding, require less space, and escape many of the diseases that effect the later harvested maincrops.
An enormous selection of varieties is available. These vary considerably in shape, size, colour, cooking and eating qualities, and resistance to common potato pests and diseases. It is worth trying a range of to see which best suits your soil, and your tastes. Whatever you choose, grow them organically - and they'll taste even better. To avoid introducing pests and diseases, plant good quality, certified seed potatoes.
Chitting potatoesChitting
Treat seed tubers carefully. Place them in a clean box or tray - old egg boxes are ideal - with the 'rose' end (the end where the tiny buds can be seen) upwards. Keep in a dark, dry place until you see tiny shoots appearing, then move to a cool (8-10°C), light place. This process, known as 'chitting', encourages the tubers to produce strong, sturdy sprouts, and gives an earlier maturing crop. Tubers can safely stay in their trays until planting conditions are right.
Soil preparation
In spring, dig well-rotted manure into the top 30cm (12in) of soil. Use around one barrowload to 10sq.m of ground. If manure is unavailable, home-made compost, a general organic fertiliser (plus leafmould for water retention), or a proprietary brand of bagged manure can be used. Never add lime before planting potatoes, as this can encourage scab.
Planting
Early varieties: March/April
Main crop: April
Dates will vary from year to year and around the country. The soil temperature should be at least 6°C (43°F). A good indication of this is when grass begins to grow, usually in March. The shoots and leaves of potatoes are frost tender, so be prepared to protect them with cloches or 'fleece' if you plant early. Otherwise, wait until April, especially if you live in the North or are planting in a frost pocket.
'New' potatoes for Christmas: July/August
Seed potatoes planted in July or August will grow rapidly, producing a crop by October. These can be stored in the ground, protected by carpets or straw.
Seed potatoes purchased in the spring can be stored in a cool place for planting in July/August. Some companies now sell seed in the summer for late planting. Choose varieties that bulk up quickly, and that have some blight resistance.
Spacing
In rows: Early varieties: 20cm x 75cm (8in x 30in). Main crop: 30cm x 75cm (12in x 30in).
On beds: Evenly spaced at 30cm (12in) for earlies; 35cm (14in) for main crops.
Alternatively, plant 2 rows along the length of the bed, with tubers 20cm - 30cm (8-12in) apart in the row.
Depth
Plant in individual holes, 15cm (6in) deep, with loosened soil at the bottom, or in a trench.
Cultivation
Earthing up
Potatoes can be 'earthed up' as they grow, bringing soil up around the shoots. This helps control weeds, prevents the tubers turning green and gives some protection against tuber blight. Do it first when plants are around 15cm (6in) tall, leaving a couple of inches of foliage showing. Earth up again just before the foliage meets across the rows. On a closer spacing, earthing up will not be possible, but the plants will shade themselves anyway.
Alternatively, the plants can be mulched with a thick layer of hay, straw, leaf-mould or grass mowings. This will have the added benefit of conserving moisture.
See also our factsheet on Growing potatoes without digging
Soil moisture and watering
Potatoes use a lot of water. For the highest yield of good-sized tubers, keep the soil moist throughout the season. Manure, compost and leafmould will all help your soil to hold more water. Varieties vary in their drought tolerance. The most effective stage at which to water, where necessary, is when the tubers are the size of marbles. This usually coincides with flowering. Water the soil rather than the foliage.
Harvesting and storage
Early varieties: June. Best harvested as required - they are not suitable for storing. Flowering is usually a good indicator that the tubers have reached an edible size, but not all varieties produce flowers.
Main crop varieties: September. Mature tubers with well-developed skins store best, so ideally should be left in the ground for 2-3 weeks after the haulms have died back. If the crop is being damaged by pests, lift them earlier. Slug damage can increase dramatically in September.
Dig the crop carefully to avoid damage, on a sunny day if possible. Leave the potatoes to dry for a couple of hours on the surface before bagging up.
Store in paper sacks (NOT plastic), in a cool (5-10°C), dark place and protect from frost. Only store dry, undamaged potatoes. Check regularly and remove any rotting tubers.
2007-03-02 09:04:26
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answer #1
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answered by Smurf 7
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Potatoes, staple food for most of the population around the world”. Growing potatoes is an easy and simple process. This article will help you achieve growing potatoes easily.
Growing potatoes take a lot of space but memories of a new potato, peas and a fresh salad is enough to at least plant a few.
Unlike other vegetables, potatoes are not planted from seed instead they are planted from potato itself. These are called seed potatoes, containing eyes or buds. for more read article http://agrifoodgateway.net/how-to-grow-potatoes/
2014-09-18 07:18:58
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answer #2
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answered by ? 2
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Purchase seed potatoes, cut them into chunks leaving 2 to 3 eyes per chuck, let them sit for 1 to 2 days, plant them 4 inches in the ground. When the plants are 8 to 10 inches high, use a hoe to pull more dirt up around them until just the top leaves are visible. Allow them to grow, mature, and turn brown before you dig them. To harvest, grab the plant at the base and pull up and toward you. The plant should bring many of the potatoes with it as it comes out of the ground. Dig for the rest.
2007-03-02 09:10:12
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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Taking A Part Of The Tuber Sprouts And Planting Them. These Are Called "Seed Potatoes".
2007-03-02 09:04:46
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answer #4
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answered by garden_nut89 4
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buy certified seed potatoes, cut each into quarters with at least 3 or more eyes on each piece let set in a cool dry place for two or three days in a plowed area of your garden dig a trench about a foot deep piling the died from the trench on aether side plant the starts 6 to 8 " apart in the bottom of the trench when plants are about 8" high take and hoe soil from the sides of your trench and cover the plants up to the cop crown of four strong branches at the top let grow another 8" and repeat with more dirt,do this one more time. be sure to apply plenty of water they7 need at least 1" of water a week when the plants have flowered give them about 3 weeks and you can dig easily around the out side edges of each hill and harvest new potatoes. for keepers for later let the plants die but mark where the are and about the middle of Sept. you can dig with a spading fork and harvest the remainder a good rule of thumb is 1lb. of potatoes will yield about7t 10lbs. of crop.
2007-03-02 09:36:48
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answer #5
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answered by oildog#1 3
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a meathod i used years ago and am going to use this year...recycling old compost bags. roll the open end down to about 2' (600ml). punch a few holes around the bottom about 1" up the side. 3/4 fill with a mix of compost/growbag (cheap)/sand/handfull of water retention crystals. push 2 small seed potatoes( or 1 cut in half if large main crop), chitted or not, about 2" down. cover with more mix to just below the rim. as the plant grows unroll the bag rim and top up the mix, allways leaving at least 3" of stems showing untill the bag is full. for 'new' tatties harvest once the flowers have set as you need them. main crop spuds wait for the tops to die off. dont forget to label the bags. this meathod is realy good if you dont have a large garden or just want to teach a child about food without digging up your lawn! even following the good advise of the others, you're bound to have a few seed pots. left over..give it a try and compare yields!!
2007-03-02 21:14:21
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answer #6
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answered by brian_sue69 3
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2016-04-17 01:34:47
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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I like Bubbas answer. We planted that way except we mixed some straw in with the dirt. When the time came for pulling them, they came out a lot easier.
2007-03-03 04:42:01
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answer #8
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answered by mamapig_57 5
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I got some lovely potatoes from just the peelings, that were discarded to my compost heap!!! Really, try it. Throw some peelings into some earth. You will be surprised.
2007-03-02 09:09:58
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answer #9
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answered by bettyswallocks 2
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i assume you mean whats called Early's don't bother chitting waiting for spouting recent gardeners world mag trials result was makes no difference try varieties swift, rocket or if you wont the much hyped jersey royal bot name is international kidney you will pay about £3-£3.50 for 3kg plant trench or single hole trench better as you can line it with grass cuttings plant Easter ready 2months later if chips then use accent others boiled or roasted
2007-03-04 05:55:15
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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why??? they r so cheap in shops...and as many veg...all that hard labour for a few potatoes,and wot if a bug or somthing gets em....i know its satisfying to grow r own,my dad used too,though now i am contrindicting myself cuz i wanna grow some runner beans this year
2007-03-02 09:23:06
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answer #11
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answered by lippylisa 2
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