car diagnosis?

Question

My car loses torque after driving just a few miles. The engine will then begin to shut down, and eventually stops running. Once this happens, I am unable to restart my car. The vehicle has plenty of gas and there is no apparent loss of power in the electrical system. Why is my car losing torque and why does my engine die after a few miles of driving? Lastly, why won't the car restart?

Answer 1

The list can go on and on. What kind of car do you have? What year? What size engine? My answer will be general with out more information. I can first explain combustion to you. In order to get combustion you need three ingredients spark, fuel and air. If you have too much or too little of these things your vehicle will not run right. You need to find out which of the above three thing your not getting or getting to much of. If you’re not getting spark, it could be something like a coil, coil pack, spark plug or plug wire. If you’re not getting fuel it could be a plugged fuel filter or bad injector or carburetor. You may also have a plugged air filter or major vacuum leak. If your car is 1996 or newer you maybe able to go to AutoZone and get there code pullers to check for any trouble codes. You may also have something wrong with a sensor(s).

Answer 2

What kind of car? Automatic trans? Have you had it tested to see if your fuel is making it to the motor?

Chevrolets are notorious for, (if automatic trans) the torque converter lock up solenoid. I had a 1989 Chevy Corsica that did this, I could drive for about 15-30 minutes and bam, dead on the road, if I kept an even pressure on the gas pedal at traffic lights or slow traffic with the brake held on it wouldn't die, but as soon as I would let off, done. Here's a description: it runs fine til you slow down the car and the solenoid will not disengage causing the car to die. You can simply unplug the solenoid from the trans, between the trans and the radiator is where its located, and my husband says there are no other plugs in that area, so it shouldn't be hard to find.

Sometimes there is debris in the fuel filter and when the car runs for 20-30 minutes it gets all "stirred up" and when you let the car sit the debris settles and it will restart. If so change the fuel filter.

Answer 3

My diagnosis is that your fuel pump is going out, you'll be good on gas but eventually it'll slow down after running a few miles and it'll seem to run great but a lot of the time dealing with that you'll notice if you try to go up an incline your car will die the most, and thats how you know its your fuel pump... But thats my best diagnosis...

Answer 4

Sounds like either a temperature problem in a specific location or an exhaust problem. There are so many sensors on cars these days it's hard to tell. For about $100 you can pick up a hand-held diagnostics reader that you hook up to your vehicle that can tell you where a problem is. then you just either have to find out how to fix it or bring it to a garage knowing the problem.

Answer 5

I accept as true with the Bass participant. Diagnosing means non-invasive strategies. Repairing/changing areas to diagnose a difficulty isn't solid prepare neither is it everyday. a perfect prognosis is accomplished in accordance to the indicators that modern themselves. it ought to ensue that when you open up the transmission, extra issues substitute into obvious yet that understood and envisioned. docs do no longer do open coronary heart surgical treatment to make sure a coronary heart difficulty. in the event that they sense they ought to open up the transmission to do a perfect prognosis and prefer all different guy stated, as quickly as gaskets and seals are disturbed they ought to get replaced, that must be coated decrease than the $550. broken areas could desire to have been suspected. as quickly as the transmission pan replaced into bumped off there could have been metallic shavings interior the backside. i could do what the different guy stated and seek for a used transmission from a junk backyard. in case you do no longer choose to bypass interior the process the hassle, detect a mechanic which will discover one for you and set up it.

Answer 6

it would help to know the year and make of the car. for example, ford had a problem with their ignition control modules for a while in the late 80's early 90's. when the car would get warm it would shut off, when it cooled it would start again. i suggest you re-ask this with year, make, model, engine size and type of transmission

Answer 7

DID YOU EVER CHECK AND SEE IF MAYBE IT COULD BE SOMETHING TO DO WITH YOUR FUEL PUMP? I CRUSHED THE FUEL PUMP IN MY '88 ACURA INTEGRA AND IT DID LOSE A LITTLE POWER A FEW TIMES IT DID DIE OUT OF NO WHERE AND I COULD ALMOST NEVER GET IT RE-STARTED RIGHT AWAY AFTER IT WOULD DIE. BUT IF NOTHING ELSE... CHECK YOUR FUEL FILTERS!!!!

Answer 8

again again again !

another person who doesnt state Year, Make and Model of the car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

does it have a AFM ( air flow meter ) ??????
injetors ?
electronic ignition ?
points?
computer?

clean the AFM if it has one.
put a link across the relevent pins on the diognostic plug, and count the flashes of the ' check engine warning lamp' then look up the codes.

then again ' if it has one ! '

Answer 9

fuel pump heating up,fuel filter plugging up or cat. pluged up

Answer 10

no gas?