I changed out the ignition coil because my car died and wouldn't start on Monday. It cranks and runs now, but the idle is real hard while not running. Hard to the point where it shakes the engine and the car. This was not the way it ran before I changed the Ign. Coil. Also, instead of running smooth, its sputtering while running.
2007-02-28 02:28:48 · 5 answers · asked by Mig G 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
start with simple things to look at first. if you removed the wires make sure there in proper order first. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order. also check the cap and rotor to see if they have burnt spots on them. check plugs for fowling as well. fuel delivery problems like filter (s). check ignition timing most chevy motors like around 34-36 degrees of timing. other things to look at is if its an hei system if the coil is the proper one for it. there are two different coils gm used. you can tell them apart by the color of the wires that they used leading from the coil itself. i believe that they were black and white on one and black and yellow on the other. not positive on the colors. I just know that i have gone through that problem before.
2007-02-28 02:37:06 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
The coil is an integral part of your distributor and I always had problems with GM distributors of that design (especially since they're so hard to work on way back by the firewall). It sure would be nice if you had a complete new distributor you could pop in place whenever you weren't sure if your everyday distributor was working or not. Those carbon rotor buttons and springs seem such a headache. You might consider switching over to an aftermarket distributor setup that has a separate coil. Maybe a performance distributor from Mallory, Accell etc. Of course your plugs and wires have to be in good shape to start with and hooked to the right cylinders in the firing order. I also assume the rough idle is for a hot engine. That means the carburetor choke should be wide open. When you cold start, the choke pull off should crack open the choke plate to allow at least some air in the carburetor. Make sure you don't have any big vaccuum leaks including the vacuum advance diaphram and power brake booster.
2007-02-28 10:55:27 · answer #2 · answered by bobweb 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
When you changed the coil did you add ignition grease on both sides of the silicone gasket between the coil and distributor cap? It may be best to get a new MSD red gasket with a new spring loaded graphite button. It will still need to be greased with ignition material. You may need to remove the ignition module beneath the springs and weights and clean it up as well as the surface it's screwed into. Add new ignition grease here also and screw it back down snugly. Ignition grease can be found at any auto parts store. Check your cap and rotor also. These rotors are notorious for burn through. Look on the bottom of the rotor for any discoloration near the center. If you see anything unusual buy a MSD cap and rotor. These caps have copper inserts. The rotors are made of the most electrical resistant material you can buy.
2007-02-28 11:00:17 · answer #3 · answered by Country Boy 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It sounds like you got the firing order off. Double check that. That would be my very first guess.
My second guess would be a wire was damaged/not fastened to the plug entirely while you were putting them back on, and you have a miss now.
Sweet ride, by the way. Take me out? :D
2007-02-28 10:42:46 · answer #4 · answered by sovereign_carrie 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'm thinking the timing belt.
2007-02-28 10:35:51 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋