I Had the same problem with my 75 gallon for a long time .no matter what i did it would not go away. i almost got rid of it, until someone told me about the turbo twist uv sterilizer. it cost me 250 dollars but is the best money i ever spent. it kills all ich! And Also keeps water clear. Kills any thing Bad. i haven't lost one fish and my tank is beautiful!!!!! Try it. Good Luck
2007-02-26 09:46:50
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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The medication may be what contributed to the death of your pictus cats. The scaleless fish like pictus and loaches are particularly susceptible to medications and many dosing instructions tell you to give only half doses to them. Most catfish are not able to tolerate salt well either, so the salt you added everyday? may have killed them too. How much total salt did you add to the tank and how big is the tank? One tablespoon per 5 gallons of water is more than enough.
Also medications and heat should not be used together as most meds will cause oxygen depletion in the water. High temp or meds, but not both.
Here is what I do and it has worked every time I have needed it:
If you have already tried medication without results, there is another way to cure ich. The other approach is to actually destroy the organism with heat, and can be combined with the salt treatment, but not with meds.
The data that was studied (including a report by the Southern Regional Aquaculture Center) suggests that most strains of Ich cannot reproduce at temperatures above 85ºF. To use this temperature treatment approach, slowly (no more than 1 or 2 degrees per hour) raise the temperature to 86ºF, while maintaining strong continuous surface agitation to oxygenate the water.
This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures. (This is why meds should not be used in conjunction with high temp – most Ich treatment products also reduce oxygen levels. Less available oxygen, combined with the respiration difficulties an infected fish is already faced with, could be fatal.)
The adjusted temperature should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or a minimum of 3 days after all signs of the parasite have disappeared (the life cycle of the parasite is 7 days).
Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. This is critical, because we know that the parasites are visible only as a white spot (trophont) on the body of the host, and not during the reproductive or free-swimming stage. We also know that trophonts on the gills are impossible to see.
BTW, never change ALL of your water, now the tank has to go through the cycling process AGAIN. You have eliminated your beneficial bacteria.
And, if you haven't removed the carbon from your filter, the meds you put in are being removed from the water almost immediately by it.
2007-02-26 09:46:17
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answer #2
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answered by 8 In the corner 6
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Ich has a very long cycle. Or can have. Raising the temperature helps. Ich has four stages: on the fish, dropping off the fish to the bottom, living in the gravel and reproducing and then hatching and swimming back up to the fish. This cycle can take a week to 30 days depending on temperature. There is no miracle cure for diseases. Treating ich, or actually, any disease requires patience and persistence. Continue using your ich medication. There's no need to use salt and medication both. Have you removed your carbon/sponge, etc., from your filter casing? The filter will remove all of the medication from your tank, which could be why it doesn't seem to be working. Also, do a 50-60% water change and siphon the gravel well as ich not only lives on the fish, but in the water and gravel as I've described. Because of the large water changes, add some AmQuel to help with the stress, chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Continue treating for ich for another week after it appears to have disappeared. Now, just to cover all the possibilities, everyone's diagnosis for a disease is always ich. White spots, ich. White cottony patches, ich. Red streaks, ich. Red patches, ich. Holes in the body, ich. Ich is little white spots. If this is not little white spots, it's not ich and treating the wrong disease with the wrong medication does no good. So, make sure it's ich. If so, then back to the patience and diligence. It takes time. Good luck!
2007-02-26 10:01:23
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answer #3
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answered by Venice Girl 6
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Ich is a parasite. Each white spot on the fish is a parasite. This parasite has a 3 stage life cycle. During the stage it lives on your fish, there is no effective treatment.
After the parasite finishes feeding and matures, it will fall from the fish and form a cyst on the tank bottom. After a few days, the water borne stage of the parasite emerge from these cysts. It is only during this water stage that the parasite can be killed by medicines. It has only 7 days to attach itself to a fish or it will die. The warmer the water is the less time it will survive.
You must keep treating the water for up to two weeks after the last white spots disappear from you fish, or they will get reinfected.
BTW. I hope you removed all the carbon from your filtering system. The carbon filters out the meds. It you didn't you wasted all the dosage.
2007-02-26 10:07:02
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answer #4
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answered by .... . .-.. .-.. --- 4
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Quick Cure is usually a very effective Ick treatment. It contains 2 of the best active ingredients out there. How much salt are you adding? It should be about 2 - 2.5 tablspoons per 5 gallons. You can also safely double the dosage of ick cure in the tank.
Run your heat up higher. Ick cannot live at temperatures over 30C or 86F so run the temp up to 88-90 F and that should help significantly.
If these treatments don't show improvement within 48-36 hours you are not dealing with ick, pure and simple. In that case drop me a line and we will find out what it is for sure.
MM
2007-02-26 09:51:38
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answer #5
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answered by magicman116 7
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You are sure this is ich? Ich can be caused by fluctuations in water temp as well as water changes, or by putting in new fish that are infested. Should not have to raise the temp. Go to pet shop and get something called Merthiolate green/blue, whichever. This works every time. Don't buy fish that have it. Every time you change the water, your bacteria level in the tank is 0. Needs to start all over again building up all the beneficial bacteria. Good luck to you. Invest in a good fish book. Rid Ich is a good product also.
2007-02-26 09:42:35
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answer #6
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answered by peach 6
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whilst ich is a difficulty for scaleless fish, it does not advise you could not use classic strategies, merely so which you could use those extra carefully. the two the warmth and salt or warmth and drugs will paintings, yet you should merely start up treatment at 0.5 the dose and paintings slowly to advance it. by means of fact the loach would be extra soft, it incredibly is on your benefit to flow the loach to a separate tank/container to handle it (as nicely as the different soft species which includes tetras or catfish) whilst treating something of the tank usually. this provides the different fish the great treatment swifter. What you progression the fish into does not ought to be an entire set-up - a bare tank or possibly a plastic storage container will paintings, as lengthy as you have an airstone or filter out for aeration and a heater or room the place you could keep the water on the suitable temperature. merely watch water transformations, considering this heavily isn't cycled, and additionally you will ought to substitute any medicine/salt got rid of by using partial water transformations (use rapid treatment, which has malachite eco-friendly & formalin, and the dosage is one million drop in line with gallon for something effective and consumer-friendly to calculate the alternative dose). Your adventure is a reliable arguement for why new fish ought to be quarantined for one million-2 weeks formerly you upload them to a longtime tank. See the hyperlinks under for extra on ich and coverings:
2016-12-18 11:30:01
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answer #7
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answered by balcom 3
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ok get (rid.ich+ by kordon) my 150gallon tank had it and that stuff killed it in 3 days
2007-02-26 09:41:57
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answer #8
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answered by Anonymous
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