There are two things to check. The first is that you have a pre-filter rated to filter down to 5 microns (do not use string filters that say 5 to 15 microns because they only filter down to 15 microns). I am guessing that you don't have a pre-filter or you are using too high a micron rating. This is important because there are two types of iron, ferric and ferrous. Ferric iron is the iron that you can see in the water. Water softeners do not take this type of iron out, and this type of iron destroys water softener resin (the beads that do the work inside the softener). Water softeners remove dissolved (ferrous) iron, but the ferric iron must be removed from the water before it enters the softener. The 5 micron rating is important because ferric iron is between 5 and ten microns in size, so a 5 micron filter is the size needed to remove it.
Another thing to check is the pH of the water. If it is below 6.8, you will need to address that problem because the acidic water will not allow the filter or softener to totally remove their respective types of iron. Acidity will eat the iron right back off of filter or softener media and allow the iron to pass through into the home.
2007-02-26 10:47:09
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answer #1
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answered by griffinpilot1965 3
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All water softeners will remove iron, the rating for iron removal depends on whether the regeneration will remove the iron from the zeolite or not. Water softeners contain a zeolite mineral that will remove soluble iron on an ion-exchange basis (the same way calcium and magnesium are removed in water softening). But the slime produced by iron bacteria can clog the zeolite and reduce its effectiveness.
You can use an Iron Filter. But they are only useful for removal of ferrous iron and manganese; ferric iron will plug them up. They appear similar to water softeners but contain a bed of natural or synthetic manganese green sand. Manganese dioxide oxidizes iron and manganese and the oxidized particles are then filtered out in the lower part of the bed. Depending on how big a filter you want, they will range from about $400 to $800.
Another way to go is to use a polyphosphate feeder. They contain a phosphate compound which coats the soluble iron and prevents its oxidation when the water is exposed to air. The compound is not effective against iron that has already oxidized. When some waters are heated, the raised temperature will reduce the effectiveness of the polyphosphate so that oxidized iron will accumulate in the water heater. (Polyphosphate is only effective in cold water. Heating the water will release the iron.)
Chlorination followed by filtration through a sand filter can remove any quantity of iron in any form. The chlorine oxidizes and precipitates the iron and the filter strains out the particles. Carbon filtration may be required to remove excess chlorine residue. This method also destroys iron bacteria. When the bacteria cannot be permanently eliminated by shock chlorination, continuous chlorination is required.
Finally you can use a neutralizer system. This system treats more acidic water. Alkalinity and pH are increased through processing. Passing the water through granular calcite (marble, calcium carbonate or lime) is the most common method of home treatment. A mix of calcite and magnesium oxide also is used. if the water is very acidic or if a high flow rate is needed, a system to chemically feed soda ash, sodium carbonate or caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) may be necessary. These systems increase the sodium content of water, whereas using calcite or lime increases calcium.
2007-02-26 09:39:01
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answer #2
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answered by jeff the drunk 6
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water softner hard water helps reduce ca mg water
2016-02-01 01:54:00
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answer #3
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answered by Charley 5
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Salt based water softeners can only remove the smallest amounts of the most highly ionized iron in water. To remove greater amounts you might need a specific "iron filtration system" typically a "backwash iron filter"... searching those terms should give you an idea of prices and models.
Beyond that I don't really know of any home-remedy type solution that you could apply in this situation. If it's bad enough to discolor your shower, it's bad enough to build up in your pipes so, as a home-owner, it might be worth the cost to pick one up.
2007-02-26 09:42:14
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answer #4
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answered by arjo_reich 3
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First off are you on a well or city water? If you are still getting Iron in your water then there is a chance that the water supply pipes are severly rusted from the source to your home. To sucessfully remove iron from your water you need the added expense of a collector that traps the heavier iron in the bottom and allows the water to flow out the top.
2007-02-26 09:30:27
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answer #5
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answered by Steven D 7
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A large magnet ''stuck'' to the side of your expansoin tank will stop the rust. Once every three or four months, remove the magnet and flush the tank (by running water) then replace the magnet. I am assuming of course that you have a well. Look in your basement and see if you have an expansion tank. It looks like this:
http://www.amtrol.com/wellxtrol.htm
If you do go here:
http://www.engconcepts.net/List_Of_Ceramic_Magnets.asp
Buy the ''Ceramic R4700C'' and stick it to the bottom of one side and you're done!
2007-02-26 09:44:47
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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