i know this will sound like a cop out to all of you do it your selfers, but i take my chain saws to a local shop and they sharpen it for 5$ its worth it to me since the tools to do it cost about 3 times that!!plus my time is worth more than 5$
2007-02-25 13:50:36
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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Purchase a round file that matches the gauge of your chain- for example- if you have a .325 pitch chain-you'd probably need a 5/32 round file.(Don't know? The bottom links on your chain has a number, and usually your bar has the pitch of your chain and the number of links required for a new chain)) If you're not also purchasing a file guide(to keep the same cutting angle of each link you're sharpening), then you'll need to sharpen many chains before you get the hang of it. Do not file the cutting link in a back and forth motion. Only sharpen each cutter in the same direction. Never take the cutter back so far that it has less than an 1/4" of cutter head left. (This weakens the cutter and it can break off while using your saw.) If you have sharpened the chain correctly- the saw will cut wood as though you have a new chain. If it was done wrong- the saw will appear to cut crooked in the wood. (The cause of this is that the angles are not consistant-hence the need for a file guide.)
2007-02-25 13:04:41
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answer #2
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answered by lart2 1
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Have somebody show you. It is hard to explain just in words.
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/brewer57.html
This article is as good as any. If you file the rakers only file a little at a time. Rakers that are too low make the saw work to hard, stretch chains and make the saw grabby and dangerous to handle. Over filing or just sharpening to the point where the teeth are worn out is dangerous too. there is a minimum amount of metal needed behind the cutting edge. it is normally marked on them by the scribe line. Many of the newer chains have different tooth shapes and need different files to sharpen them. Many chainsaws are equipped with automatic sharpeners and chains. these are different and are better if you don't try hand sharpening them.
2007-02-25 10:49:02
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answer #3
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answered by U-98 6
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The most common way is to use a rat tail file. You need to buy the size that is correct for your chainsaw. Most home use chainsaws are 5/32, heavier duty chainsaws are larger. If you have a dremel/rotary tool they make bits to sharpen chainsaws with. This is so much faster and easier. If you don't have a rotary tool I would suggest buying one, they have many more uses than sharpening chainsaw blades and are well worth the money.
2007-02-26 04:16:29
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answer #4
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answered by Angry-T 5
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OK, start by puting the saw with bar and chain in a bench vise. be sure your chain brake is not set and use a round rat tail file with either a angle guide or follow direction of the teeth ... Important: just clean the toooth and use the same amount of pressure with each stroke.... yiou dont want to wear out you chain , these things are expensive! Once you have done one side leave the saw in the vise and reach around and do the rest of them. now this willl keep your chainsaw cutting as it should . If you chain is older (well used), then youmight want to lower te "rakers". these little guys are located bettween the teeth and their height determines the "bite" you saw will take. lower rakeres too much and your screwed with a saw that will only bogg down and wont cut nadaa, if you never touch them your saw will not digg into the log just make you exaughsted. hope this helps..
2007-02-26 05:32:11
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answer #5
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answered by sum12laughwith 1
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Lots of good info. Larry's caution made me spit my drink all over my monitor. At least it is clean now!
Oregon Chain makes inexpensive chain sharpening guides with the correct file for the chain pitch already inserted in the guide. Easy to use.
There are also (my favorite) electric (12V DC) sharpeners with guides that make the job super fast. I tend to need to sharpen my chain a lot. I seem to like cutting the ground, rocks, etc. Not good.
As you sharpen your chain, pay attention to the volume of chips coming out of the cut. As the teeth get smaller from many sharpenings, the rakers need to be ground down a little, too, to keep cleaning the cut.
2007-02-25 13:21:15
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answer #6
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answered by Hank 3
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If it's real dull and abused, take it to a shop and them do it. Then get the right size file and do it your self there after . The teeth of the chainsaw are filed for sharpness, anb the rakers may also have to be filed down. The angle of the teeth is critical for a sharpening .
2007-02-25 23:10:36
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answer #7
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answered by enord 5
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Check This Old House web site. They had a segment on sharpening chainsaws. You need a few special tools, Small flat file, round file and a guide. I would think you could get them at a good hardware store.
2007-02-25 10:21:00
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answer #8
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answered by Anonymous
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You will need to buy a chainsaw file.
They are completely round.
Look closely at the blade and estimate the size of the curve. Probably the diametre of a three inch nail. about 3mm or 5/32".
Make sure you get one with a handle, or buy one.
You don't want the tang of the file going through you palm.
File at the same angle as the face.
I will normally get it done at the start of a season, touch it up several times myself and then get it done professionally again.
Have a spare so you can continue whilst it is at the Saw Doctors
2007-02-25 10:48:08
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answer #9
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answered by Murray H 6
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Use chain sharpening rattail file. File in one direction toward the sharpened edge.
2007-02-25 11:30:18
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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