TURTLE SET UP what i need?

Question

i am going to get 2 baby turtles
(dollar size)
soon
what size tank
what should i get extra?
what kind of filter
kind of gravel
light
kind of conditioners?(for water and turtles)
and food
im pretty sure there red ear's
so any help is greatly appreciated
(and anything else im missing)


-Ivan

oh
and for the record
i have turtles
they are 14 years old i got them when i was 2...
so i just need basic care of BABY turtles thanks
trust me i know about when they get older haha

Answer 1

A ten gallon tank will be good to start. Make sure you have an area that they can get completely out of the water. Only fill about 4 inches. Turtles can be filthy (I know I have several), so frequent water changes are your best bet . therefore no filter system is really needed. As for gravel, I use marbles if anything at all, again, it is a cleaning issue. They are great pets, but can also carry salmonella, especially ones with a shell under 4 inches. In many states you cannot even keep them smaller then that. Get a "Dr. Turtle" block or some other kinda conditioned to help fight the salmonella and other bacteria. Good luck!

Answer 2

Congrats on getting a turtle! I hope you are ready for a lifelong comittment, as they can live for a long long time and can get to be a foot long! For starters, here is a page I made about RES care: www.geocities.com/radiofemme/turtles

To answer your questions:
-For now you could get a 20 gallon tank but soon you'll need to upgrade and will eventually need a much larger (like 55-75 gallon depending on whether they are males or females since females get larger).
-As for extra stuff, you're gonna need a high-powered filter (like a canister filter....I use a Fluval canister filter) because turtles get very dirty...much dirtier then fish. You'll also need a basking area, I use the ZooMed turtle docks. You'll also need a basking (heat) lamp and bulb over the land area and a UV bulb over the area as well. They have to have the UV bulb to absorb Vitamin D3. You will also need a heater, and keep the temp around 75.
-Filter: canister, it's the best and you'll need a huge one eventually so go all out.
-Gravel: NEVER use gravle. Only use those big smooth stones or something big cause turtles can eat the small gravel and get impacted and die. And even if the turtles are small right now and can't eat the gravel, it's easier to start with the bigger rocks anyway. And they're prettier.
-Lights: basking bulb and UVA/UVB bulb, both pointing at basking area.
Conditioners: just use dechlorinator.
Food: try not to feed them turtle pellets/sticks too often. When young they need alot of protein (like baby fish, crickets, worms, etc) and some veggies, but when they get older they eat more veggies. Try not to overfeed.

Good luck with your babies! And if you'd like to see mine, check out my site!

Answer 3

I.) Juvenile Basking Semi-Aquatic Enclosure – most people start out with a baby red-eared slider (RES) roughly the size of a 50 cent piece. The same basic care applies to painted turtles, map turtles, cooters and yellow-belly sliders. All are flattened, disc-shaped, swim well and spend a lot of time in the water or basking under a heat lamp. The enclosure is good for up to 2 years for up to 2 turtles. The water will initially be about 6 inches deep; once good swimming ability is established go to 8 inches. Some underwater ‘furniture’ (driftwood, etc…) should allow resting near the surface when desired. Be careful that your tank décor does not allow turtles to climb out; they climb much better than you’re likely to anticipate.



A.) Recommended Setup:

Equipment:

1.) Enclosure: 20 gallon long aquarium.

(Horizontal size is more important than vertical, hence the ‘long’)

2.) Stand: Aquarium stand.

3.) Cover: Aquarium Hood (or screen & strip light) with fluorescent light

4.) UV-B Light Source: ReptiSun 5.0 UV-B fluorescent light bulb

Note: UV-B light doesn’t penetrate glass. You must not have any glass between the ReptiSun bulb and your turtle’s basking site. If you have to knock a glass plate out of a hood (they’re intended as splash guards), wear protective eyewear & take proper safety precautions.

5.) Water Heater: Tronic Submersible Heater – 100 watt

6.) Filter: FilStar XP2 Canister Filter

7.) Filter Bio-media: FilStar Bio-Chem Stars

8.) Basking Spot: Piece of curved Cork Bark (sold at PetsMart)

9.) Basking Light: A lamp with a 60 watt light bulb (basking light must be suspendable over the basking ramp).

10.) Gravel Vacuum (Get one that primes easily!)

11.) Thermometer.

12.) Food: A can of ReptoMin Baby Aquatic Turtle Food

13.) Cuttlebone (from the Bird section)

14.) Clump of Romaine lettuce at grocery store

Special Note: You don’t need aquarium gravel; bare-bottom is okay & easier to keep clean, although gravel does look nicer & most people use it or river rock.

Cost Estimate:

Items: Estimated Cost:

1.) 20 Gallon Long Tank Combo.: $60.00

(Tank, Hood with Fluorescent Light)

2.) 20 Gallon Tank Pine Cabinet Stand $90.00

3.) Fluker’s Black Clamp-Lamp $18.00

(250 watt rated; ceramic socket); use 60 watt normal bulb

4.) ReptiSun 5.0 UV-Bulb (Online Price!) $25.00

5.) 100 watt Tronic Submersible Heater $20.00

6.) FilStar XP2 Canister Filter $85.00

7.) FilStar Bio-Chem Stars (1 Container) $10.00

8.) Cork Bark $10.00

9.) Thermometer $5.00

10.) Gravel Vacuum $12.00

11.) 1 Can ReptoMin Aquatic Turtle Food $5.00

12.) 1 Cuttlebone $2.00

13.) 1 Clump Romaine lettuce $1.50



Total: ~ $350.


hope this helped!!

Answer 4

Basically you need a 20 gallon for two small ones, when they are older more like a 55 gallon. You should feed them turtle pellets or dried shrimp. You need some rocks for them to climb on when they want to be on dry land. They also need a light for the tank that should stay on half the day. The gravel can be pebbles.

Answer 5

2 baby turtles should be in about a 20 gallon tank, about 1/2 filled. Most other cares are similar to that for adults.

Here is an article on baby care: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Articles/newhatchling.htm

Answer 6

absolutely, it really is a really undesirable theory to enable him pass. it really is not any longer a community species. Assuming it really is "one among a kind" on your section, regardless of if it ought to't breed, it ought to have parasites or quite some ailments or infections which will be unfavorable to community species. it really is likely that your turtle became not at all wild and became bred on a "farm" of kinds. If some thing, you should take the turtle to a zoo or to a puppy save. in truth, you should have taken the turtle to an unique pets vet. they'd have advised you why he wasn't ingesting. likely wasn't ingesting because of parasites. I savour that you probably did not eat the little guy, yet letting him pass is undesirable for the eco equipment. We to blame reptile keepers are already being blamed for the non-community reptiles that were released into the wild. Please do your study next time and locate ordinary strategies to be a to blame animal proprietor.

Answer 7

ok if they are red ear sliders they need to have atleat have a 50gal tank but a 30gal will last u about 6months beacuse my turtle
iv had it for a year and its grown like 4inches its big. get a basking pad for it to rest and sleep on if you get a 30gal get a 50gal filter
if you get a 50gal get a 100gal filter. some gupies are good for them. get some big gravel bigger than its mouth because they
have will eat it.get a uvb light for its basking pad.get turtle logs
are my turtle fav food but you will have to search for one
i went thru like 3 typs of food befor i found the one she likes
iv put about 200 dollors in my turtle tank and turtle
they are fun to have.ok you can have like a almost full tank
or like 6inches of water i do not like the almost full tank
because it take longer to clean and its not very fun to fill up
and get the tepatrue right.80-to 90 degrees so hope that helps.