1997 chevy k1500 5.7 vortec engine, runs ok when cold and when warmed up and shut off will not run well, or start well, was throwing camshaft sensor code, replaced cam sensor and still doing the same thing. Going back to the mechanics in about a week. anybody got any ideas? thanks
2007-02-22 09:59:22 · 5 answers · asked by red77chevy350 4 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Makes ➔ Chevrolet
Its NOT on its last leg, its in very good shape and right around 100 K miles. so dont give me that crap!
2007-02-22 10:07:44 · update #1
The cam retard is probably out of spec. This basically equates back to the distributor timing on an older engine. As the timing chain and gears, and the distributor gear wear, the cam retard becomes more, causing a reduction in performance. The only way to reset the cam retard is buy using a scan tool to read the cam retard and adjust the distributor. But, most newer engines have a distributor hold down that is not adjustable. This means either elongating the hold down, or replacing the distributor gear or the timing chain and gears. The spec for cam retard is no more than 2 degrees. Getting the cam retard under 2 degrees will turn off the MIL.
2007-02-22 10:12:13 · answer #1 · answered by bbking48507 5 · 3⤊ 0⤋
they replaced the cam sensor thats the one iside the distributor if they replaced that one and the code comes back i would lean towards replaceing the distributor the wheel the sensor gets its signal from might have been damaged some how. have your mechanic check it out.
Another problem ive seen with these trucks is the fuel pressure regulator leaks its located in the intake plenum so its not worth canging under suspicion have your mechanic do a fuel pressure test. If it runs rough enough it will change the timing which can throw the cam sensor code. give some more info hows it run at idle no load acceration?
2007-02-22 19:23:21 · answer #2 · answered by krazymecha 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
100,000 miles on a Chevy is just now getting some of the newness off of it! Don't listen to idiots that tell you otherwise!
Starting with since it is doing it after its at operating temp only I would check these in this order...
A faulty ignition coil-I've seen this happen on everything from lawn mowers to high performance cars and my own vehicles too. The coil gets hot-a break in the windings separates-then starting,stalling,dieing issues occur.
Warm fuel pressure regulator bleeding off pressure when shut off.
A faulty o2 sensor-either contaminated or loose connection.
A faulty coolant temp sensor-maybe.
Good luck and let us know what happens.
2007-02-26 12:37:09 · answer #3 · answered by gittit 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Check the dist shaft. Your mach should be able to see the problem with a scan tool. Could be a worn timming chain too. Good luke
2007-02-22 18:06:52 · answer #4 · answered by Darrell R. 3 · 0⤊ 2⤋
Get rid of it while it still runs. I am guessing that you have a lot of miles on it, so it is almost dead. If it's throwing those codes, you have a problem with the transmission and computer. Costs WAY more to fix these than what the truck is worth. Hate to break it to you, but your truck is probably on its last legs.
2007-02-22 18:06:26 · answer #5 · answered by Busta 5 · 0⤊ 4⤋