Fitting a new a bath!?

Question

I'm fitting a new bath and was just wondering if it would be best to build a frame around it for additional support and also to stop the seal from cracking.

Answer 1

I always check the floor out first. If you need to fill the bath with water to seal the edge, place and screw down a good thick sheet of ply first.

Then when the bath is level, use the two brackets to fix it to the wall, screw the feet down to the floor and silicone seal right round the bath to the wall.

The only frame I make is for the the panel.

So don't bother with spray foam and bath filling. If you need to, the bath ain't in right.

Answer 2

Bath tubs are designed to sit on the legs that they are supplied with, you may need to give extra support where the feet sit if you are on a wooden floor. There should be no reason to make extra support for the rest of the bath. a frame work around the outside is generally for fixing the panels. As the others said half fill the bath with water before you seal it and it does hurt to make some brackets to hold the tub tight against the wall.
If you havent bought your tub yet opt for a tin bath they are much better than plastic and will last longer.
You should check about correct electrical earthing for what ever
tub you put in, a part P registered electrian can advise you on this.
Good luck.

Answer 3

If it is a tub with a skirt on one side, they are not designed for an enclosure. The only support these tubs require is a 2x4 under the non skirted edge for support. If you have the drop in deck mount type, you should build an enclosure that will leave at very minimum 1-4 inches clearance underneath it from the finished deck height. When setting the tub, put it in the hole dry first, center it, and trace the edge to show exactly where you want it to sit when finished. Next hook up your drain. Its best to use schedule 40 pipe and fittings. Then remove the tub from the hole and mix up 3 - 40lb. bags of sand mix concrete. Mix about 1 1/2 bags per bucket in 2 buckets. Mix the crete stiff but movable, kinda cake frosting consistancy. Quickly dump the mixed mub buckets under the main floor of the tub like you are building a sand castle. (you want them to hold their bucket shape somewhat.) Set the tub in the hole and let it settle down to meet the edge of your deck. Put your drain trim back in loosely and align the tub with the traced line you made earlier. Then crank the trim down tight. Caulk around the edge of the tub with an adhesive caulk like Dap brand tub and tile, and a damp sponge. DO NOT STEP IN OR FILL THE TUB! You want the tub to sit as is in the wet concrete until it fully hardenes. This will give you a solid base that will support the tub from the bottom and not by the rim of the tub. Using expanding foam and wood will push the tub out of the hole, rot, hold mold, etc. Use the concrete. The caulk will pretty much always crack. But if done right it should be easy to scrape it off and do it again in the future. The caulk holds it in place, and gives it a water tight seal. Silicond based caulks will not hold the tub in place near as well, but they are less prone to cracking. good luck!

Answer 4

Securely fix the legs and feet to ur floor with screws- make sure they're nice and tight to prevent any movement. Also try spraying a can of expanding foam under ur bath... once this has gone off it stops the bath from sagging or cracking under the weight of urself and a whole load of water. And DEFINATELY fill ur bath before using a sealant around the outside... like the other dude said- leave at least overnight.

Answer 5

I built a frame to drop my new bath into and then used 4x2 timbers to support the bottom along the full length of the wood underneath the bath.

The bath has been in constant use for several years and is solid, the previous bath was on the legs supplied and wobbled.when you stood in it.

If you are at all handy I would build a frame but do not neglect the support underneath.

Answer 6

The decision to build a frame is entirely up to you, depends if you want the 'boxed in' look.

Sealant should not crack - half fill the bath with water before sealing the edges.
Allow to dry, at least overnight, before emptying it.

Answer 7

in case you imagine the lavatory is lengthy sufficient to take a common bathtub then pass to some the position like B & Q , wickes clarify the topic they'd grant you with a refund if it wont extra healthful. with the tub legs off and no waste pipes appropriate try status the tub upright to get it upstairs see you later as you've commonly used width doors 27" wide bathing room, 30" wide different doors i'm positive you would extra it round your residing house as a lot because the lavatory section. I were given our bathtub in a Skoda resources vehicle to convey it residing house ok.

Answer 8

no just put it down on what the manufacturer recommends or your guarantee may be void. also putting a frame puts too much weight on the top frame of the bath which should be taken by the feet.

Answer 9

If you have fitted the two brackets to fix the bath to the wall. then you don't need extra support. but if you haven't fixed these brackets, then you will definitely need support on the front to stop the bath from tipping. I recommend 2x1 batten pse.

Answer 10

can i throw a spanner in the works here?
Re; filling the bath with water before sealing the edges...
if the bath is moving on it's mountings enough for you to NEED to fill it with water before sealing it then it's moving too much for you to be able to use it long term!
try reinforcing the floor that it stands on first!!!