Most lights are placed about 18 inches below the expected water level, when the pool is completed. In either a concrete or vinyl pool, the bulbs themselves aren't replaced in the water.
In the case of a concrete pool, the copper light niche is set into the wall of the pool at the time the pool is shot. There is a conduit run from this, up to what's called a deck box. This is where electrical connections and grounding is done between the actual light, when installed and power from a GFI breaker on the pool pony panel.
Concrete pool lights have about eight feet of cord that comes with them. The cord is threaded through the niche, up through the conduit to the deck box. A compression nut on the conduit keeps pool water from splashing and waves, from entering the deck box. The excess cord that's now in the pool gets wrapped around the light fixture and the light is then fastened into the niche. Bulb replacement for almost all concrete lights, requires the entire light be removed and taken into a shop that specializes in this. It's important that you get a pro to deal with this as we're talking about 120 volts in a pool. You get a seal wrong and at the very least, you'll have a 200 dollar bulb blow. At most, someone could die.
Vinyl pools are more home owner friendly. The most common type of pool light for them is made by Aqua Lamp. It's a 12 volt DC tractor head light bulb, basically. They are installed somewhat the same as a concrete pool light niche, 18 inches down. Instead of a deck box, flexible conduit pipe is glued onto the niche's stub out and run up to just below the deck and out to just beyond the deck's edge.From there, you can simply bury the cable as it is rated for burial without conduit. Those lights have cables that come in lengths from 50 ft to 150 ft. The cable is pushed in through the niche, up through the conduit until you see it poke out. Grab and go for a walk. You want to leave about three and a half feet of cable in the pool, with light attached. When you have that, stop pulling. Make sure the light can be pulled up and onto the deck. This is so that you can do your own bulb replacement later on a dry deck. The seals are easier to replace as they consist of only a simple O ring and only four screws to remove the bulb faceplate. It's 12 V DC, so no one is going to get hurt, so if you pinch the O ring on re install and the light floods, at worst your 30 dollar bulb will pop. The extra length of cord is also needed to weigh down and drop your light for winterizing, so that ice doesn't crack it. The same incidentally is true for a concrete pool bulb.
The extra cord is wound around the pool light when you install the bulb into the niche.
2007-02-28 14:41:35
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answer #1
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answered by scubabob 7
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To continue where Bob left off. If the transformer is putting out power the next step is to locate the pool light junction box near the light. It should be close by. Pool lights come with a 25' cord standard, but 50' is available. The junction box may be a 6" round black plastic style or a 2"x 4" gray metal or plastic box. Check for 12-14 volts there. If it is 2"x 4" then there is a good chance the splices are badly corroded. For some unknown reason installers often leave the wire nuts facing down and as result water collects in them and the connections corrode. If all is good there you will need to remove the pool light housing and check the bulb. In all likely hood you have a submersible type fixture. Reach down and locate the Phillips head screw holding the trim ring in place. Be sure to use the correct size screw driver, #2 I believe, and lots of pressure on it as you don't want to round the head off. Once it is out the housing should lift up and out. The cord will belong enough to reach the pool deck. Then remove the screws holding the glass in place. If you have a continuity tester check the filament of the bulb. Verify the wattage of the lamp (300 or 500 watts) as the transformer is sized accordingly. When you have a new bulb installed You can turn it on MOMENTARILY to verify it works BUT ONLY for a moment. IT Will burn up if left on for even a few seconds as it gets hot fast. When it is submersed it stays cool. Then carefully coil the cord back around the housing as you reinstall it. On 2 occasions I have had to get in the pool in order to remove the screw or remove the housing. Good luck with it.
2016-05-23 22:15:06
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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To replace a pool light , refer to the manufacturer's instructions. If you do not have them, call the installer, supplier or manufacturer of the pool.
A new light fixture is to be installed at an elevation that allows it to be serviced without getting into the water. This means that the light can be worked on by a person kneeling or lying on the ground or concrete next to the pool.
2007-02-24 06:36:34
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answer #3
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answered by Dave 5
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I have a pool my self. Out pool light is just above half way in the deep end. Hope this helps!
2007-03-01 13:18:31
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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OK SO LIKE.. THE POOL LIGHT IS SOMETHING YOU SEE IN THE POOL! AND YOU REPLACE THE LIGHT BY CHANGING LIKE.. THE LIGHT BULBIE THING OR SOMETHING.. i DUNNO
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! ISN'T THAT FUNNEH?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2007-03-01 11:59:18
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answer #5
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answered by Febie T 1
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