how to put in stair stringers?

Answer 1

Here are two good resources I found when constructing a stair. One shows details, while the other is a calculator. Word of warning: Dont do what I did and place stringers directly against studs. Run diagonal 2x between studs and stringers so you can butt the drywall beneath stringers to make it much easier than cutting drywall to each step!

Answer 2

The preceding answers give good directions, but may be difficult to follow unless you already know what you are doing. I won't repeat what has been written, but would like to add several suggestions:

Use three stringers for rigidity.

Before you nail either outside stringer to the wall studs, lay the stringer against the studs and mark the studs with a pencil along the bottom of the stringer. Then cut a 2x4 to fit above the marks you just made. Nail the 2x4 to the studs, then put the stringer back in place and nail the stringer to the 2x4 as well as at the top and bottom. Don't forget diagonal fire blocking between the studs. The 2x4 holds the stringer far enough out from the studs to give room for hanging the drywall below the treads and risers. Some people use 1x4 instead of 2x4, but this is not really the best because 1x4 is not rated for carrying any kind of load.

At the bottom of the stairs, don't put the stringers in direct contact with the concrete slab. The code requires pressure treated wood or redwood for termite resistance. You can, however, use roofing felt or flashing under the stringers to provide a barrier.

One last note--when installing the treads and risers, first lay a bead of construction adhesive on the stringers. This will help keep the stairs from squeaking.

Answer 3

Well at least you know what a stringer is. The rest of terms are foot; head or landing;rise and and tred. The tred is what you actually step on. The rise is the hiegth frtom tred to tred. The foot is the very bottom and the head is the very top.

Measure the hiegth of where the steps are going. If there is an transister, do not measure off the top of it measure the actual floor or deck. On a calculater dived that number from the number of steps that you want. If you do not know how many steps, divide the number by how high you want the steps. Not to exceed 9 inches by fed. code and no less than 7 inches. The tred should be no less than 10 inches. Did I lose you?

Example: The hieghth of my landing is 105 inches (always measure in inches for the math). I want 12 treds, now I divide 105 by 12. That gives 8.75 or 8 3/4 inches that falls in fed range.

So now I use my framing square and layout a 2x 12 with one side at 8 3/4 inch and the other at 10.
Cut out the layout not to cross my cut on the treds more than an inch ( so a hand saw or jigsaw will be needed to finish the cuts.) On the hanging side of the head cut off an 1 1/2 so you can nail a 2x10 to the back. Off the bottom of the foot cut an 1 1/2 for a two by four to be nailed to the ground and then nailed to the foot. This will secure and square your stringers. through the 2x10 that you added to the head adhere it one rise hieghth under where the stringers are going.

On the rise nail a 1x equal to the hieghth (in this example 8 3/4). This is called a kick board. Then nail on the treds or steps wide enough to over lap the kick board. In Mo. and Ks. (maybe other areas) If you use a double stringer you will need a 2x tred. If you use a triple stringer you can use 2x or 1x material.
It takes practice to get steps correct so dont get frustrated. I have been building custom homes for 16 years and still mess up once and awhile. I hope that I have answered your question. If not I am sorry. Let me know and I will try again. Good luck

Answer 4

Without ANY DETAIL at all it's not gonna be easy, to explain other than by giving you details you might have included.

Is this intended staircase a replacement? Is it from a basement to a first floor? etc etc. Is it an exterior issue?

Assume for a moment that there are codes in place, defining width, railings, etc.

Are they 3 step? 4 step? more step? Are they enclosed on two sides by walls?

Basically in a single set, say 4 step, you'd add a brace piece the appropriate width to the top most level of the stringers, at least, allowing something to bolt through to an existing wall, ledger, ledge, then as many others as you feel are needed to keep the spacing apart, equal. The risers and treads help accomplish that eventually as well. Certainly you can do the same at the floor level and secure with tap cons into a concrete floor or otherwise.

Steven Wolf
staircase as low as 4 step and as high as 60 ft.