I replaced my battery a few days ago.
This morning with a multimeter (Car was sitting overnight), I saw that the volts on my battery was roughly at 12.54 which is good. (Car not running)
Checked the BAT Terminal on my alternator, roughly the same (also good)
Started the car, the BAT Terminal reported 14.6 and my battery was also reporting roughly the same, after a few minutes, I began opening headlights, defrost, wipers, heaters .....
The car battery voltage began to drop 13 and lower , the second I provided some acceleration, the battery clearly went back to 13.99 to almost 14.2
All that time, the alternator was still registering 14.4 to 14.6 volts
To me, this seems to be working as designed. In an idle state with no gas and all bells running, I bel it is normal to be hovering at 12.5. (Again Idle, with no gas what's so ever)
My mechanic insists it is not normal.
2007-02-21 03:26:03 · 13 answers · asked by Avellino 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Well, you guys are the BEST! Thanks for the quick response. I have one more question (Sorry for the multiples), if I unhook the negative cable on my battery (While everything is shutoff...no lights, no radio, no wipers, nothing), get a multimeter and test the voltage between the negative cable and the negative battery terminal, am I coorect to bel that anything below 12 volts means that no parasite sucking power exists?
2007-02-21 03:36:55 · update #1
Sounds normal to me. I've been working on cars for over 30 years too.
2007-02-21 03:29:02 · answer #1 · answered by Aznative 1 · 1⤊ 0⤋
The specification that determines how long a battery will last is called the RC (Reserve Capacity) and not the cold cranking amps of the battery. This rating is in minutes and is how long the battery will supply 25-Amps at 80 degrees Fahrenheit before dropping to 10.5 volts. So if your draw is 25-Amps, then the RC rating is the minutes it should last without charging. At 50-Amps, it would be half that long.
2016-05-24 02:28:25 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
a 12volt battery. has 6 cells with a nominal voltage of 2 volts each cell this equals 12 volts fully charged battery voltage is accepted as being 13.6 volts. if you disconnect the battery + lead and use your meter in the ampere mode you will see if any current is being drawn by the system. dont do this with heavy loads or your meter will self destruct use a clip on ampmeter for this
2007-02-21 20:36:18 · answer #3 · answered by Mick W 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
1
2017-03-05 00:06:58 · answer #4 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
your first voltage question is correct , as for the second i believe you should be looking for an amperage draw , your computer and radio and clock will pull a bit , if you are looking for a drain pull fuses until you see it drop off. good luck , nice to answer intelligent questions
2007-02-21 03:54:38 · answer #5 · answered by sterling m 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If your mechanic says it is not normal then the next time you see him tell him there are millions of cars on the road that are not normal. I wouldn't worry about it.
2007-02-21 03:32:46 · answer #6 · answered by dVille 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Most definitely all is normal. I think your mechanic is trying to grab some easy money from your pockets!! Time to change mechanics I think! If it isn't broken then it doesn't need fixing!
2007-02-21 03:35:28 · answer #7 · answered by dragondave187 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I agree with all others. You are describing a properly working alternator system. To get a drop at idle you would have to revert to agenerator system. (I'm showing my age)
2007-02-21 03:37:10 · answer #8 · answered by Warren 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I think it's your mechanic that's not normal , 50 years car experience tell me that your electrics are just fine.
2007-02-23 14:23:10 · answer #9 · answered by John L 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
All sounds normal unless all other vehicles on the road are faulty. no further checks are necessary.(Is your Muck-Anic short of work)? Get a fresh one pronto.
2007-02-24 17:36:25 · answer #10 · answered by frankyboy2 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋