I have an issue with my 98 Fiesta Zetec 1.25. When I apply the handbrake on a hill, it does not hold the car stationary. I can even push the car on the flat and get it to move when the handbrake is on. Know the rear brakes are drum brakes. Does it require new brakes or can the existing ones be adjusted tighter???
2007-02-20
21:47:44
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8 answers
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asked by
Liam G
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in
Cars & Transportation
➔ Maintenance & Repairs
In reply to the answers so far!!!
1) I have already tried the handbrake cable, don't want to tighten it any more in case it brakes.
2) Did mention in original posting that it was a '98 Fiesta.
2007-02-20
21:58:05 ·
update #1
Don't even think about shelling out for new brakes until you've checked the old ones first!! (I apologise for the lengthy answer!)
The handbrake is essentially the manual override for the rear brakes. So any problems with the rear brakes will cause problems with the handbrake too.
So test the rear brakes, do this by jacking the back side of the car up (unless you have more than one jack do one side at a time) and with the handbrake off apply the brakes and have a friend try and rotate the rear wheel.
If he/she can move the wheel then you either have a problem with (1) the brake pads, (2) low brake fluid level or (3) the auto/self regulator needs adjusting. It's a 1998 car so i doubt that there's any problem with the internals of the drums but it not impossible that one of the springs inside could have broken.
(1) Topping up the brake fluid should be fairly easy to do if you know where to put it! If not then ask at a garage and they'll point you in the right direction.
(2) Replacing or checking the brake pads is easy if you have a simple socket set (or the wheel nut key that came with the car) and an I.Q. higher than 100. To do this there are two ways; one short and one long. I will only describe the long way as you can't go wrong this way.
-Remove the wheel nuts, then remove the wheel.
-You can now see the drum brake. There should be a dust cap hiding another nut in the centre of the drum. Remove the dust cap carefully with a flat head screwdriver, as if you damage the edge then dirt/dust can get in and possibly damage the wheel bearing! (NOTE: lay out all the nuts etc on a CLEAN cloth or surface as we don't want any dirt on anything!). Now remove the nut and pull off the outer drum.
-You can now see the inside of the drum and all the parts of the brake. Check the shoes/pads to see if there is any brake material still on them (when new they will only have about 5mm of material) If you think that they could do with replacing then buy a new pair. (cost should be about £20-30 for a set of 4) If you see any rust on the shoes then replace them as the rust gets behind the brake material and causes it to come off and seize the wheel (not cool if it happens when you're driving).
-If you replace the shoes yourself (it doesn't take a genius) then just remember which spring went where! Draw a diagram on some paper to remind you.
-If you see any of the springs are broken then replace them, as without these the brakes will not function properly. This also applies to the spring at the end of the handbrake cable as this could be a cause of your original problem. While you're looking at the springs check that the handbrake cable is actually attached!! (it should clip into one of the shoes). With age the springs tend to pick up a lot of rust which will cause them to fail.
(3)With the guts of the brake exposed look at the self regulator (it looks like a metal bar with a notched part on it, that runs laterally separating the two shoes). If the outer part of the drum is a snug fit to put back on then its probably doing its job properly. If its a loose fit then using your flat head screwdriver push the notched part of the regulator up a few clicks which should push the pads outwards. Don't rotate it too much as then you won't be able to get the drum back on! Do a couple of clicks and then test-fit the outer drum, repeat if necessary.
If the above doesn't help solve your problem, bite the bullet and take it to a garage.
2007-02-22 09:08:09
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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The rear brakes on a fiesta are self adjusting,so the brake drum will need to be removed to investigate the problem?It will mean you will have to slacken off the cable again to get the drums off
2007-02-21 05:11:54
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answer #2
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answered by JOHN K 4
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if you have adjusted them and they still don't hold then tighten them more, if you have tightened them as far as they will tighten and they still don't hold you need to....(A) Replace the cable, it may all ready be broke or just too stretched out...or (B) you need to have the rear brakes replaced. I either case if you don't have a working handbrake, get it fixed, you may need it in the worst way.
2007-02-20 23:13:21
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answer #3
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answered by alk99 7
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Take the gaitor boot off the handbrake and screw the ten nut as much as the final thread on the adjuster and which could unlock the cables....yet you will have no handbrake so be careful flow away the motor vehicle in kit if parking
2016-11-24 21:40:26
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answer #4
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answered by deardorff 4
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have the braking system looked at brake fluid contaminating the rear linings from leaking w/cylinders will dramaticly reduce braking effecency. a siezed h/brake cable will also render the h/brake inoperative. self ajusting brakes invariably need setting manually for optimum performance. get the braking effecency tested at your local mot station (rolling roads test brakes) for a nominal charge
2007-02-21 19:49:58
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answer #5
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answered by Mick W 7
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Your linings either need adjusting or replacing,the self adjusting types never seem to work correctly...
If you are unsure how to sort out your brakes then take it to a garage..remember the brakes stop you and if they fail..
2007-02-21 08:09:13
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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2017-03-05 04:41:43
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answer #7
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answered by ? 3
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it all depends on how old the car is.
2007-02-20 21:53:24
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answer #8
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answered by GEOSYNC 4
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