Some more tiling questions?

Question

Just trying to dot all/most of my i's before I start tiling my vanity top.
I'm going to use the 3/4" plywood, 1/4" hardy backer-board. Can I screw these two together, and glue it to the vanity top? there doesn't seem to be anything to screw the both to the vanity.
1. should I use thin-set or mastic?
2. should I apply anything to my tumbled marble before I start, and/or before I grout?
3. should I use the pre- grout?
Thanks!

Answer 1

After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile and remodeling more bathrooms than anything else. I may have responded to former Q's of yours?

Obviously you realize you will raise your vanity top by 1 Inch plus approximately another 5/8 inch with mortar/mastik and tile. That equates to plumbing adjustments as well.

I use Concrete backer board exclusively now, especially on walls, attaching it to whatever substrate exists. In your case, the Vanity should have "Cleats" or some such that the existing top substrate is connected to. Certainly the structure of the vanity has TOP edges, and you can add cleats. and even use contactor adhesives to bond the new substrate before adding the backer board. Hopefully HARDY relates to concrete substance, not like the brand name given to MDF house siding.
The initial issue should be securing that first layer of substrate, then noodle over any topper.
Mortar/Mastik: Certainly you'll note the properties of either before spending dollars,,, I hope, and NEITHER are Superman in that they don't allow totally waterproof if constant Soaking is an issue. Gauge those properties of each and decide.
For a vainty top make the grout lines as "Tight" as possible,,, 1/8 inch is acceptable, and when the choice of mortar or mastik has cured add grout. SANDED in this case. WITH polymer base.
No need to "PRE-GROUT" whatever that means?

AFTER the install obviously begin grout removal immediately, but with the dryest sponging possible. As the grout sets you will go back and wipe again with a more moist sponge, eventually having no more than dust as a residue.

SEALING: HMMM??? Consider the surface and purpose. Certainly you can apply grout sealer, and then maintain it regularly, as the surface you speak of gets as much abuse as a kitchen counter top or floor.

Your "Tumbled" marble should already have levels of NON porous.

Steven Wolf

I had to read other answers and with NO offense NON sanded grout is recommended for lines larger than 1/4,,,up to 1/2 inch, not small lines.

Answer 2

Plywood should first be secured to the cabinet, then the backer to the plywood. Since you're new to laying tile, I'd use the water base tile adhesive and a deep-notched trowel. Dry lay the entire top and then apply adhesive over the entire top. Lay the tiles back into place in the adhesive. Let dry for a day and then apply sanded grout. Seal it thoroughly! Tumbled marble looks great on back splashes but is not an easy maintenance application when installed as a counter top.

Answer 3

Alot depends on how well you want the job to be. Personally, I would screw the plywood to the cabinetry, then screw the hardy board to the plywood. You can use either mastic or thinset but what really counts is the grout. If you have less than 1/8" spacing, you can use unsanded grout but if its anything larger than that you should use sanded grout. This gives more durablility and strength to the tile. If you don't care that much about doing a quality job, just use mastic over any subbase material and grout with whatever you find floats your boat.

Answer 4

Carlos is right, but he didn't mention, before you grout you should apply a stone sealer to the marble. It will keep the grout from staining and soaking into porous stone. You should seal again after grouting Marble is very porous and stains easily.

Also the vanity should have corner blocks, they may be slightly below the edge, that is what you should screw you plywood to.

Again Steve, SANDED GROUT IS FOR LARGE JOINTS, NON SANDED FOR JOINTS LESS THAT AN 1/8" Read the box!

Answer 5

I just tiled over the laminate on the counter tops in the kitchen and bathroom(5 mos. ago) using 4 1/4 by 4 1/4 tile and using mastic w/a small toothed trowel (1/4 inch teeth) and it came out great.. you don't really need the plywood and backer board. Of course if you want to, that's up to you...whatever floats your canoe..(:>P).

Answer 6

? # 1use thin set.

? # 2 apply nothing

? # 3 no don't use pre grout. After you have installed all of the tiles, wait 24-48 hours to give the this set time to work.If you grout it too early it will take a longer time to cure.