Adding compost is very important for opening up a clay soil, but compost alone is inadequate. It is equally important that the soil surface never be left bare. Left open to the elements, it will seal and air exchange with the deeper soil will be reduced. Air exchange supports root growth and microbial activity necessary to improve soil performance.
As much as possible, maintain ideal moisture characteristics for soil microbial growth. This will be a tad drier than what is ideal for plant growth but don't ever let the soil dry out.
Grow plants known for an extensive fibrous root system. I particularly like annual rye grass, but it is considered a noxious weed in some regions, so choose wisely. Annual rye-grass roots break up the soil and support the microbial activity that does the real work in soil improvement. It is also very effective at reseeding itself, a good thing/bad thing characteristic.
Choose a plant that can support mycorrhizal fungi. Inoculate the seed (or plants if applicable) with same prior to planting.
To kick start the living soil component, drench the soil with an actively aerated compost tea. You'll need a compost pile, an aquarium aerator setup, a 5 gallon bucket and a watering can. Assuming you have four seasons, do this once a week in the spring and fall months, once a month during the summer.
2007-02-20 10:18:09
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answer #1
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answered by paleorthid 2
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Before adding ANY lime or other chemical amendment to your soil, have a soil test done. Most of the time clay soils are high in alkalinity. Adding lime will make it more so. A pH test will tell you if you need to add lime to the soil. To help break up clay, you would add gypsum to the soil. Unfortunately, breaking clay requires digging. The best thing to use is compost tilled into the clay. The organic matter binds to the clay making it more crumbly and adds pore space. Perhaps you could hire a neighbor kid to rototill the garden with good compost and gypsum. Or a better solution, since you are older and don't want to be bending down as much; is to build raised beds. You can add good soil to the beds and won't have to bend over as far to weed or harvest your bounty. You can make the beds as deep as you need. I would not make them any wider than 3 feet across though. This allows you to reach everything in the middle of the bed.
2016-05-24 05:45:48
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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dont mix sand with heavy clay because it will form CEMENT!
you can put a layer of sand under your plants to help them avoid rot, but keep the sand in its own layer--dont mix it into the surrounding soil.
Its very helpful to keep the surface of clay soil mulched or covered in some way, because the surface bakes to a hard crust after being wet and then exposed to hot sun.
I have heavy clay soil where i live (we call it GUMBO). the best way to deal with it is to add a layer of compost and mulch each year then work it under in the fall. It takes time for this to help.
I always remove the clay soil when i put in a new plant and replace it with good quality soil consisting of a mixture of the following: top soil, manure, peat moss, compost, leaf mold (decomposed leaves), perlite and vermiculite( in small quantities).And dont forget to add back in some of the existing soil(it should make up about 1/4 of the new soil). I make this soil blend myself and always have a few barrels of it on hand for spring planting. its much easier to concentrate just on the individual holes where youre doing the planting, rather than trying to ammend all the garden soil at once which could be a very overwhelming task.
remember that although clay soil is difficult to work and has a terrible texture, it is usually very high in nutrients, that is why you should add some of it back into whatever soil mix you add to the garden.
2007-02-18 16:30:52
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answer #3
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answered by mickey 5
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First you can try digging a large hole. Then fill it with good loam mixed with peat moss. Plant flowers that are hardy under poor soil conditions. Most places can recommend flowers and bushes for your area that will grow in poor soil.
Your next step is to compost. Either buy or make a composter. In the fall take your compost and work it into the ground around the plant. Small wood chips can be spread on top of the ground for the winter and then worked in with more compost or peat moss in the spring. Then cover the ground with more wood chips. It will take several years and a lot of work before you will notice much difference.
I have the same problem here. I started 20 years ago with only a small area and each year I enlarged it a little. Now I have close to a dozen different lilies, 4 different iris, a grape vine, crocus, daffodils, hostas, sedium, a couple of rose bushes.
Try looking at the plants that grow wild right around you. Many of them can be tamed and planted in your yard without a lot of work to start with. I also had the problem of poor drainage and springs popping up every wheres. Trees have helped that problem. I have ceder, Japanese pine, blue spruce and recently added an oak but its is not doing so well.
If you want a quick solve and money is no problem, get a couple of loads of good top soil delivered and spread on top.
2007-02-18 16:10:01
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answer #4
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answered by birdie_001 2
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See the links below:
PERSONAL NOTE: Be sure to contact the Agriculture Extension Agency in your area, they usually provide soil test materials. Some organizations such as a farmers co-operative often offer free testing in agreement for your using their products to amend your soil i.e. fertilizer, lime, etc...
We had some very sticky clay soil that we amended using manure, compost, peat moss, and fertilizers...it took several years to actually see the difference. However, working the area with a tiller and adding humus (compost, manure, and peat moss) was effective along with whatever nutrient requirements were needed to grow a specific vegetable ... we grew corn in the area. Sand is also recommended in instances where the 'muck' factor is heavy (such as you described). There are several good books available at any library on the topics of home gardening or landscaping. Check 'em out!
ps If the suggestions above are unsuccessful, dig a pond and stock it with catfish, feed them grain, and rent poles to fishermen or fisherchildren and have them pay by the pound for their catches.
Agriculture to aquaculture...
2007-02-18 15:59:21
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Heavy clay soil needs a LOT of organic matter to loosen it up. Peat moss, MANY large bags of potting-type soil, manure, wood shavings, autumn leaves....anything that is plentiful in your area & will break down. NOT grass clippings (they mold & clump & smell terrible), and NOT gravel (it sets up like concrete in the clay). If you compost, add that to your garden soil every Fall. Through the summer, take the hard lumps of clay off your garden & add them to the compost pile. It will take a few years for your clay soil to become easily workable, but keep turning it & adding organic matter whenever possible. Question: What type of subsoil do you have under the clay? Hardpan is almost impossible to loosen, but sandy loam farther down can be brought up to the surface & mixed with the clay. Try www.simplegiftsfarm.com for other gardening tips.
2007-02-18 16:00:43
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answer #6
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answered by mumsarge 2
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Mulch! Mulch! and more Mulch. My village was built on clay and I have lived here for 30 years. I am still having to work compost/manure into the soil and then only the top 10 inches or so. Good luck my friend and a lot of patience.
2007-02-18 20:34:29
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answer #7
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answered by admiralsmurf 1
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Sand + clay = cement. You do not want to add sand!! You need to add plenty of good old fashioned compost. Spread a 2 inch layer of compost over soil, get your shovel and turn, turn, turn. Next week, get your shovel and turn, turn, turn. Add another 1 or 2 inches of compost and turn, turn, turn. You can use grass clippings, but maybe only one inch, then turn, turn, turn. You may need to do this for a few years to finally get good soil. Don't get discouraged though, these things take time.
2007-02-18 16:45:28
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answer #8
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answered by noonecanne 7
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From what I understand from reading organic gardening for many years, that sand really will not help your drainage problem. There is really no quick fix. You must add ALOT of organic material over time....IE compost....eventually, and I do mean eventually, it will help turn the soil into something resembling dirt where you can grow whatever it is you desire. :]
2007-02-18 15:40:35
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answer #9
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answered by whispurrr_on_a_scream 3
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I agree with a lot of what was said already.
I don't think anyone mentioned garden gypsum. It is available at garden centers and will help break up heavy clay soil.
Good luck!
2007-02-18 22:57:35
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answer #10
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answered by Lori 4
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