Ever been to an aquarium, like Sea World? That's what they are.
To make the tank, you'd probably do it in two pours, unless you're set up to pour a mold, which you probably aren't. You just pour the base (floor) first and embed 'water stop' halfway into the concrete. That's a rubber strip either 4" or 6" wide. Half gets embedded in the floor, and the other half sticks up for when you pour the walls. I'd also add butyl water stop before pouring the walls. Looks like a big piece of licorice and sets on top of the floor before the second pour. It expands as the concrete cures. You can use either, but both is double protection.
After pouring the floor, just form up the walls and frame a box in where the window will go. Drill some 3/4" hole in the bottom of the frame to allow air to escape when you pour around it. Otherwise, you'll end up with voids under the window. Make your frame 3/4" smaller all the way around and add a narrower 3/4" board to the outside of it. (If your walls are 3 1/2" thick, use 2x4s for the frame and add a 2 1/2" wide, 3/4" thick board towards the inside of the tank. This will give you a notch/ledge/stop,whatever you want to call it to hold the glass from being pushed out by the water) You will need to use a vibrator when you pour the concrete. Don't leave it in one place for too long (all the rocks will settle to the bottom).
When you strip the forms, you'll need to epoxy the inside of the tank to make it water proof. Make the walls smooth by mixing up mortar, pretty wet, and rub the walls using a rubber float. (before epoxy, of course) You can probably find a seal for the window at an aquarium store/pet store. It will probably be a butyl product like the stuff you use between the walls and floor. The weight of the water will go a long way towards seating the window against the seal.
EDIT: I just finished 2- 20' x 10' x 12' deep water tanks in a factory. We used regular concrete (which does allow seapage). We filled the tanks for 2 weeks to check for leaks. No leakage BEFORE epoxying them. Gunnite will certainly work, but it's not neccessary. Swimming pools are made with gunnite because it can be sprayed into irregular shapes and formed in place. If your tank is square, you don't need gunnite. Order waterproof concrete. They put an additive into it at the plant. It's not 100% watertight, but epoxy on top of it is.
2007-02-18 13:28:21
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answer #1
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answered by normobrian 6
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2016-12-24 09:11:56
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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Watertight Concrete
2016-12-10 15:02:37
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answer #3
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answered by ? 4
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I plant to build Concrete aquarium size Lenghth 8' width 30" and height 30" i want to know Glass thicknes
2014-07-24 02:17:58
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Ordinary concrete poured into a form will always leak and bleed thru and eventually form cracks.
You need a product called Gunnite which is applied in nearly dry form and is used in swimming pool applications. IBuild your own forms out of wood plywood, the material is then sprayed on from inside to shape the tub. It is rather inexpensive if you build your own forms.
2007-02-18 13:42:17
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answer #5
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answered by James M 6
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Aquarium silicon will be just fine for the purpose. Try to work it down into the cord area (from the wet side, if possible), and do it when the entire system is as dry as possible. Allow it to cure before adding water.
2016-03-15 21:45:54
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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If you are planning to start on your woodworking project, this isn't something you should use, it's something that you would be insane not to. Go here https://tr.im/cmbij
Truth is, I've been a carpenter for almost 36 years, and I haven't found anything like this for less than 10's of thousands of dollars.
2016-02-09 12:18:48
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answer #7
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answered by Carolina 3
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ther are additives you add to concrete that makes it water tight ( had to do it on a waste water plant ) it make it form water tight crystals when hardening, also a ruber gasket when joinint the floor to the walls! good luck
2007-02-18 15:06:43
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answer #8
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answered by Bonno 6
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2017-03-08 23:42:16
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answer #9
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answered by ? 3
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