How much is it to have a diagnostic run on a 1998 Chevy cavalier?

Question

So tonight was fun. I went to get in my car after leaving work to find my parking lights were left on. So when I had to drop back into work real quick not 5 minutes later, and had to restart my car it gave me trouble. Eventually it started, and i attributed it to my being an idiot and leaving the lights on. So i decided to take the car on a bit of a drive to ensure the battery got a little charge. About 10 or 15 minutes later the temperature guage was through the roof and in the red zone. I saw a little steam coming from under the hood so i stopped at a friends and let it cool down. I put coolant in when it got cold but the low coolant light is still on. I've had to put coolant in my car about once every month or two since I rear ended a tacoma about a year and a half ago... How much is it going to be to have a diagnostic run on this? Any ideas as to what the problem might be?

Answer 1

You could go to one of the auto parts stores (checker, shucks, autozone) and get a cooling system pressure tester. (you can usually rent them for under $20) It acts like a radiator cap and you manually put pressure on the system by pumping it up. Then look for your leaks. Its allot safer than having your hands moving around a running engine.

My guess is that you had a pocket of air in the system, or a pocket of pure water that caused you to overheat. You could also have a thermostat stuck closed, so its not letting the cooled coolant back into the engine block.

What really sucks is that if a car pins out the temp guage it usually leads to a blown head gasket from the intense overheating. If you leave the radiator cap off and start the car, a blown head gasket will sometime cause your coolant to gyser like old faithful. If it is gushing like crazy its probably a Head gasket. Also if you pressure test the system with the kit, and it wont pressurize the system and there is no visible leak, its probably a head gasket.

Hopefully it was just a hairline crack from your accident in the radiator that finally got bigger. If thats tha case, your looking at around +/-400 for a new radiator. Its allot better than a head gasket which are more like 1200+

Answer 2

What you do is get the Haynes Repair Manual for your Year and model of vehicle at Auto Zone, or another automotive repair shop. The manual will show you what and how to do the repairs.

Do you know Auto Zone and some other auto parts store can run a free diagnostic for you. The dealer will run one but it covers more like fuel emissions and stuff. Auto Zone might help you pinpoint that starting problem.

Do you know that some parts store sell a florescent dye that you can put in oil or water. Run the engine, then use the UV flashlight to spot any leaks. This is one possibility now.

Seems you might have a small radiator leak somewhere. It should be ease to spot, just look for either white or turqouise residue on the radiator or around the hoses. You have a small pinhole leak somewhere. Get a GOOD flashlight and check out your hoses for any telltale signs of water leakage. Also, check your water pump for water signs on top. You need a book to help you locate it, and then towards the top is a hole, called the weep hole. If you see ANY signs of water coming out of here then the water pump is going bad.

Depending on what you want to do, if you get a check you might as well get one done at the dealer. Expensive but they will cover everything. Or check out one of the smaller places like brake check or where ever. If you ever go to brake check, schedule an appointment on the computer. In San Antonio, you can get as much as 30% off at selected locations on certain days. They have a calendar and it tells what days and hours have the discounts.

Now here is the cheapest fix, especially if it is a small leak. Drain your anti freeze out and save it if possible. Me, I usually just tell people it is only 7 bucks for a new gallon. Anyway, drain it , refill with plain water, run the engine so the water circulates. The thermostat opens and then the antifreeze from the block will come out also. Re drain again. Now then you will buy some Radiator flush. I would buy the heavy duty kind as this takes outs the lime deposits that build up inside over time. Follow instructions. When I do this, I usually do errands for a couple of hours to get it all out. Because I figure it takes time for the stuff to get the gunk off and does not hurt anything. But do not do this if you live in cold weather and leave it overnight. Water will freeze. Anyway, you then drain the flush, refill, run, the drain and fill up again. Now this time you will buy some K&W block cell. It comes in a black and copper can, shaped like a small beer can. It runs like $9. This will fix any radiator pin holes, any head gasket problems, and any cracked heads too. I know cuz it has happened to me. I used to use the cheap stuff, but when I blow a gasket this stuff sealed it up. Surprised the you know what out of me. Anyway, this stuff does work. But then you do this AFTER you have checked the hoses and water pump. Then if you can not spot anything, then my way will run a minimum of $20 if you skip the radiator flush. Price for K&W seal and new antifreeze. You will find out that on certain things that they more they cost the better it is. Just like batteries.

The price of a diagnostic at a dealer $100. The price of K&W fixing your leak, priceless. lol

Answer 3

If you're leaking coolant, you don't need to have diagnostics run. There's obviously a leak somewhere since you've been filling it so often and it's been overheating.

My suggestion would be to fill it with more coolant, start the engine and let it idle. While it's idling, look for a leak in the engine compartment. Check hoses, coolant reservior, radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, basically anything associated with the cooling system.

Once you find the leak, get it replaced and you should be good to go.

Answer 4

depending on where you live, like cali it's way way to much here in cali it's like 89 on up...basically thats the labor cost, without parts. I know alittle about cars even tho I can't get my lic for 4 more years. I don't know what the driving age is in other states but in cali you have to be 18 now it way suks
sorry for that lol
You do know that all cars now are like driving computers right? Maybe since you let the batt drane, did you get a jump cuz the power surge would make the comp think crzy stuff and it would reacted like that... I think that if you would like take the negitive cable off , then let it sit 4 15 mins then replace the cable, that will reset the comp and everything should be running fine.. My daddy told me that if you take off the positive cable first with the newer cars of today...it wipes out the ECM I don't remember what that is called, he says that cars back in the 70's and early 80's you could do that cuz they still had carbs now everything is computerized and fuel injected.... I don't know sorry I thought I'd say something......bye

Answer 5

with a ninety 8 cavalier I actual have not in any respect heard of a v6. I actual have in trouble-free words considered the only overhead cam engine in the undeniable cavalier and the quad 4 in the rs and z 24 cavaliers. the quad 4's are fairly quick and function more than a number of room for progression. notwithstanding the only cam engines gained't get a lot more beneficial efficient. i do not recognize of any thanks to do a replace because the quad 4 has a differant ignition equipment with 2 coils the position the only cam engine has in trouble-free words one coil. yet once you've a quad 4 then I advise you connect to a junk quick beretta. they'd a short charged quad 4 intense output and maximum factors will interchange.. wish this helps.

Answer 6

no specific idea, really, but a diagnostic shouldn't cost over 60 bucks.