can a bad knock sensor on a subaru 2.5 rs lead to a bad rod bearing?

Question

i have a 98 subaru impreza 2.5 rs the knock sensor was bad can this lead to a bad connecting rod bearing

Answer 1

back knock sensor, will lead to undetected knock (also called detonation). If the knock isn't detected, it won't be corrected. If the knock isn't corrected it will keep happening. Knock/detonation is very hard on your engine and could lead to any number of parts breaking, or at least wearing out faster (including your rod bearing)...

If you know you have a bad knock sensor you should use high octane gas to minimize knock until you get it fixed.

Answer 2

You gotta split the engine case to fix that bearing. Very expensive repair. A bad knock sensor will cause the ecu to retard timing automatically to reduce the potential for engine damage if there is no communication between the sensor and ecu. If it doesn't 'report' knock to the ecu when knock is present, then the knock condition will just get worse and louder as time goes by.

Anything is possible, but I would look to your maintenance habits, oil pump pressure readings and especially red line driving habits (subaru's boxemotor style engine doesn't like high revs regardless of what the popular opinion states) because the subaru is a very well built car and most any rod bearing damage is resulted from lack of oil pressure be it from towing the car in gear, low oil pump volume or taking the car to red-line in a drag race, especially on such a lightweight aluminum block with tiny oil passages and an easy to stall oil pump.

Answer 3

easily, it feels like an exhaust leak to me. Lifters have a highly consistent loudness because the engine revs, rod knocks get louder because the engine revs yet are it seems that audible at idle (in the video i can not listen the knock at idle besides the undeniable fact that it might properly be diverse in individual). What i'm listening to is going through the metallic sound that exhaust manifold leaks ought to larger of a roar, at the same time as rod knocks continually sound like someone is hammering on the engine, hammering harder and swifter because the engine revs. the most ideal and maximum low priced way of telling the version between the sounds is with a mechanic's stethoscope, oftentimes lower than $20 at many vehicle chain shops and a accessible aspect to have round besides (first source as an get mutually). If the sound is clearest on the crankshaft area - there is oftentimes quite a lip that you'll get admission to close to the pulley - it is a rod knock, if clearer on the right of the engine it is a lifter, if no longer sparkling both position it is possibly exhaust. no matter if it is an exhaust leak you are able to eliminate the rod from the stethoscope to target to pin down the region (it is going to likely be a manifold gasket or a crack in the manifold) yet a more beneficial precise way is with a keep vac. Empty the canister, placed the hose on the hollow, and enable it run some seconds to blow the grit out. Duct tape the hose to the exhaust pipe and turn the vac on. you are able to oftentimes listen the hiss and would quite experience it as you probe around the chilly exhaust manifold including your hand. the right suspect in the oil gauge issue is the sender. it is way less complicated and low priced to easily replace the sender than to do authentic troubleshooting. If the readings nonetheless dance round it's time to placed a authentic gauge on it (connects to the position the sender screws in) to make certain no matter if it is a authentic oil stress issue. i do not propose street driving till you've an effective oil stress interpreting yet even various oil stress is sufficient for comfortable driving.

Answer 4

The more I think about it ,yes it could.
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