how to find out if a wall is load barring?

Question

i want to open up my kitchen and dinning room. their is a door way that will take you into the kitchen from the dinning room but i want to take it out. i just dont want the roof to fall in. thanks for any sugestions.

Answer 1

I'm not sure who gave Aussie the thumbs down, but his answer as short as it is makes the most sense.

If this wall runs the LENGTH of the house, with the exception of the occasional doorway, it is load bearing. You won't be able to remove it completely, but you can re-design it. The best way, honestly, is to hire someone for this kind of work. The reason for that answer is because they will have INSURANCE if the house comes down due to faulty work. Nothing quite like waking up in the living room when you went to sleep upstairs.

One option you have is to widen the opening. Rather than removing the entire wall (after all, what ARE you going to put your china cabinet against in the dining room?) take out a fair portion of it. This can be easily accomplished simply by enlarging the header above the doorway. For example, if the doorway now is 3 feet wide, you can make it as wide as 8 feet by putting in a longer header. Some good 4 X 4's on each side of the header will be enough to support it but at the same time, the longer the header you need, the bigger dimension wood you have to use. Instead of a 2 X 6 header, I'd recommend a 2 X 12 header which consists of 2 - 2 X 12's with a piece of plywood between them to give it the right thickness of the 2 X 4 top plate. This header you could run 8 - 10 feet without worrying about sag or collapse.

Another option is the same principle but if you want to remove more wall go to a column type system. It won't be completely open, but you could make some cool interior columns that can blend into your decor or even add to it. Minimum 2 X 12 headers, a column (4X4) every 8 feet with the 2X12's being as long as possible/required and no breaks in them.

Lastly, you could even leave the wall, and instead of removing it, put openings in it and give it that look of being bigger. You'll still need to work on the headers if you do this, but it will be much easier. Remember, you need headers, 4X4's, and 2X4's for the king stud running along the jacks (4X4's under the header)...nothing like a construction course in 20 minutes...

Oh yeah, one last option, you could sell this house, buy one that is the way you want it, and NEVER have to worry about this. Just a thought.....

Answer 2

A load bearing wall will generally have two 2x4s on the top of the framed wall. A demising wall will only have one 2x4 at the top of the framed wall. Even if the wall is a load bearing wall you can still have the work done, but, you will need a knowledgeable carpenter to support the roof while a header is framed over the new opening. Pretty much the difference is a ceiling jack, more wood up the sides of the doorway , and more wood over the door to help support the roof where the old studs where.

Answer 3

Most walls can be removed even load bearing walls, but you have to use common sense and of course check with the local building inspector.
You will have to reinforce the part where you take the wall out, Usually done with the correct header and substantial joists or columns. Your best bet would be to get a Carpenter for professional help.

Answer 4

if the wall-runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists it is a load barring wall

Answer 5

Hire a contractor.

Answer 6

go up in the attic and see which bare the weight