dry wall question?

Question

i want to fix up my basement. the walls are made of cement blocks how do i hand dry wall on it. do i have to built wooden walls or can i just screw in strips of wood for this? thanks!

Answer 1

Lowes handles a drywall without a paper backing, its a Sontara plastic backing material. Mold problem is gone.

Im told this stuff is so strong you can apply it directly to concrete blocks by a simple Hard nail shot at each of 4 corners at the bottom and top. Wonderful stuff, use it for sure in your project.

Answer 2

You can either use pressure treated 2x2s (2x4s ripped in half) or use metal 'hat channel'. For a house, wood is better (you might want to hang a picture or something). Lay the wood strips so that the factory-made sides are facing the block and into the room. This ensures you have a consistent depth, rather than putting the cut edges against the block (every piece will be slightly different). There is no need to build a 'false' wall in front of the block. Your block probably isn't plumb (they never are unless you had a really good mason), but they shouldn't be that far out that it would matter.

As for attatching the wood to the walls, 'tapcon' screws are best, but cut nails and fluted nails will work, too. Screw into the block, not the mortar joint. If the block is hollow (not poured with concrete), nail into the mortar joint. Nails will blow out the back of a hollow block and not hold.

Just lay out your furring strips like you would a wall (16" on center). Lay a run horizontally along the floor and ceiling, and cut 'studs' to fit in between them. Consider putting insulation between the studs. Rigid styrofoam is easy to cut and made for that application.

When you get that done, come back and ask how to put up the sheetrock.

EDIT: Man, these people are stupid, Even the '30+ years as a contractor' guy sounds like he doesn't know his azz from a hole in the ground. First of all, use 16" centers, not 24". You can use 24, but anything that you hang on the wall was made assuming 16" centers. Ready-made shelves, racks, etc. Cabinet mfr's don't care about your layout b/c they can be attached to each other, but every other mfr of 'units' assumes that your fastening points are 16" on center.

I forgot to mention the vapor barrier, but some new-fangled, plastic-coated sheetrock is just another way to rip off DIYers. Put up the wood, insulate with rigid, staple a layer of poly sheeting over it, hang dry wall. Same result. 1/2" drywall costs about $10/sheet. How much does that 'specialty' dry wall cost?

Glue? They mean construction adhesive. What the hell would you need that for? You are going to screw the wood to the wall with 'tapcons' (five places, not three). You don't need any adhesive. Your vapor barrier will cause condensation along the block (if you have any issues with it). That will cause adhesive not to stick or let go, anyway. I've peeled lots of adhesive off of block by picking at the top and pulling it right off to the bottom.

I may not have been doing construction for 30+ years, but if you have a question, email me and I'll walk you through it. It ain't rocket science if all these drunks and drug addicts that I've worked with can do it.

Answer 3

Tropical is most on track here. Use the metal (what we call hat channels) and install the strips vertically. Wood applied to the basement walls can absorb moisture and cause mold & mildew issues. The vertical channels should be installed to allow any moisture that gets in behind the drywall to escape to the attic or ceiling space. I've seen some bad scenarios with mold when this wasn't done properly. Screw the drywall to the channels, which should be placed on 16" or 24" centers depending on your drywall thickness (16" = 1/2" & 24" = 5/8").

Answer 4

Yes, you can attach furring strips to the walls. Make sure their no less than 16" apart. Also be sure to use drywall nails/screws that are short enough to stop before you hit the concrete. Further try to attach the furring strips to the mortor rather than the block itself. Personally I would use plastic mollys or lead shields. You will need a drill / bits that will work on concrete. Such as a hammer drill or rotary hammer. Note: Make sure "all" seams fall 50% on the strips. Good luck with your project.

Answer 5

I would look at screwing down 2x4 on the flat(or 2x6 or 2x2)with special screws for cinder block. But drill the holes in carefully otherwise you will break the block. Every 24 inch spacing should be good enough for 1/2 inch board.Don't need many screws per board top/middle/bottom. Why 2x's?(really on 1 1/2 inch) Because the screws or nails got to be at least an inch long if not longer.
Besides 2x's are most common on job sites or lumber yards.

I've also seen them advertize glue that is suppose to bond great(but I don't believe it).

Answer 6

Check your building code
Here we have to put up Standard 2 X 4 Wood Studs, at 16 In Centers
Then insulate between
Then 6 mil Vapor barrier Then Drywall

Answer 7

You don't heed 2 x 4's. use a smaller lumber (2 x 2's) or furring strips. glued and screwed to the block.

Make sure that your block is waterproofed or you will have problems later.

Screw gypsum board to the furring strips and tape and mud and paint. Your done

Enjoy

Answer 8

I'd recommend using galvanized metal 'C' channel. It's consistently straight, easy to work with and light weight. Since you're just furring out walls in a basement it doesn't need to be load-bearing. You can even get quite creative with the stuff building out soffits and closets very easily. If you can use metal snips then you can put up 'C' channel.

Answer 9

You are going to have to frame the basement in 2x4 or 2x3's prior to handing drywall. This will facilitate electrical wiring and plumbing installation also.

Answer 10

Use concrete nails and nail a stud to the floor .Nail your header to the floor joists .Then nail your stringers on 16 inch centers from the floor to the cieling . Then nail your drywall up .