help me get rid of green pond water.....?

Question

guys for the last two weeks my pond has gone through a major change,from being able to see the bottom so clearly i can see my tench swimming around. To going into a peasoup state, and ive just pulled out a koi of 2lb stone dead.It didnt seem to have anything wrong with it as he was feeding only yesterday,ive got 6 more koi up 2 6lb and really worried im gonna lose the lot,ive got my uv working 24hrs plus a filter system,ive also got a load of toads in the pond not good news i know.
So do i just let nature take its course and hope 4 the best,or do i pump out the pond and refill? As i have a well in my garden the ponds spring feed and only holds 4,000 lts. please any advice

Answer 1

Green water is caused by single-celled algae, which remains suspended in the water. If conditions are right in a pond, i.e., there are plenty of nutrients and sunlight, as many as five million algae cells per milliliter of pond water can be present. These organisms are so tiny, they pass through even the finest filter.
String Algae is caused by a filamentous species of algae, which grow in long strands. These algae eventually tangle together, forming thick mats that can double their weight within 24 hours. Blanket weed or string algae tend to adhere to rocks and waterfalls, which can be unsightly.
Once you understand how algae grow, the next step is to learn how to treat it. Following are some tried and true methods, which will not only help you treat algae, but also help prevent it.
Adding Plants
In a natural setting, fish produce nutrients that are absorbed by plants, leaving very little for algae. However, many garden ponds do not possess enough plants to handle all the nutrients produced by the fish. This causes an excess build-up and produces an ideal environment for rapid algae growth. Whether you are just beginning your pond development and want to avoid algae problems or have an existing problem to control, you’ll first want to increase the number of oxygenating plants on the surface of the pond. This is perhaps the simplest, long-term solution to keeping water clean and clear.
Floating plants, such as lilies and lotus, provide shade and reduce direct sunlight in the pond to control algae growth. Add submerged plants that release oxygen to the water, such as anacharis and parrots feather. As a guide, one bunch of six to seven strands of oxygenating plant can be added to every two square feet of water surface.
All aquatic plants also absorb nutrients and starve the algae. After initial plant introduction, green water may occur, but will only last for a short time. Once the plants are well established, no further preventive measures are necessary. Established marginal plants can be planted around the periphery of the pond or in the shallow sections of the pond. These are also effective in absorbing nutrients and provide some shade.
One popular way to introduce plant life into the pond system without putting plants into the main pond is to construct a plant filter. A plant filter is a simple channel or small filtration pond through which water from the pond is fed at a relatively slow rate. Fast-growing plants (efficient nutrient removers) are grown within this channel in planting baskets or are free-floating, such as water lettuce or water hyacinth. As these plants grow, they absorb nutrients from the water and “out-compete” algae to control its growth. Generally, the plant filter needs to be stocked with plants equaling approximately one-fifth the surface area of the main pond.
Water Treatments
Water treatments added to the pond water are an excellent option where algae problems already exist. Green water can be controlled using repeated applications of a green water algae treatment. A variety of TetraPond products are available, depending on your pond’s condition. For example:
AlgaeControl™ — Highly effective at combating green water, string algae and blanket weed.
Barley & Peat Extract — A natural water clarifier in a convenient liquid form that releases humic acids and replaces messy barley bales.
Sludge Reducer— Naturally clears pond water. Great to sue in the spring before pond is shaded by aquatic plant cover. Contains a high concentration of natural, beneficial bacteria and enzymes that consume organic matter and nutrients in the pond.
Water Clarifier (formerly AquaRem®) — Works fast,quickly clumps contaminants so they can be easily removed by filtration, wet vacuuming or a fine mesh net.
Reapplication of water treatments is necessary for maximum effectiveness, and you should carefully follow manufacturers’ guidelines.
Fish Feeding
Using a quality fish food will also help, as it will be fully digested, leaving fewer nutrients to pass through the fish which in turn will encourage algae growth. Be sure to feed your fish only enough food that they will consume within five minutes.
Ultraviolet (UV) Clarifiers
UV clarifiers combat green water by exposing suspended single-celled algae to very high levels of ultra violet light, which destroys its reproductive ability. UV clarifier units consist of a tubular fluorescent bulb that emits UV light. Because UV light is harmful to the human eye, the bulb is enclosed in a dark, opaque housing.
Pond water enters through the clarifier’s inlet tube and travels around the UV light. The UV light kills the suspended algae, causing them to clump together into particles large enough to be removed by filtration, and then exits the clarifier. Finally, impurities are removed from the water as it passes through a mechanical and/or a biological filter, and exits back into the pond.
Installation & Safety Sense
When it comes to installation, place the UV clarifier where it won’t be flooded or fall into the pond. Suggest mounting it onto a dry flat surface, like the lid of the pond filter. Connect the UV unit to a GFI outlet or circuit to protect against shock.
For safe and frustration-free installation, follow the manufacturers’ directions. They’ll provide key information on properly installing the UV clarifier and incorporating it with existing pond filters and pumps.
The bulbs and their glass sleeves are very fragile so be careful, and patient, when assembling the unit or changing a bulb. While the connections must fit securely, forcing the bulb can result in breakage– which is certainly no fun to clean up or to replace! When handling the bulb, avoid touching it with bare hands and remove any fingerprints using a clean cloth. The bulbs are sensitive, and even natural oils from your skin can cause the bulb to overheat and shorten its life.
UV bulbs are also extremely powerful and emit harmful ultra violet light, so never look directly at the unshielded bulb. To monitor the light, always look through the lamp’s translucent connectors.
Maintaining Optimal Performance
Ensure effective performance by replacing the UV bulbs as specified by the manufacturer- whether or not the light still glows. Some suggest a life span of 8,000 operational hours, which is approximately once every 11 months of continuous operation, which means about 2 years of usage. It’s helpful to keep a record of bulb purchases. Refer to the packaging and manufacturers’ instructions on recommended flow rate for water to pass through the clarifier.
Throughout the water gardening season, UV clarifiers can run constantly except during maintenance. It’s best to disconnect the unit, remove the inlet and outlet hoses, and drain any residual water when cleaning the UV clarifier
During the cold winter months, protect UV clarifiers from the danger of frost by draining and storing them indoors. If temperatures in your climate deem it necessary, you can run the clarifier year round.
Blanket Weed Control
There are several different ways of controlling blanket weed and green algae. Some pondkeepers use a garden hose to blast blanket weed off of rocks and waterfalls. Others remove the weed by hand or net. UV clarifiers are effective against green water algae, but not blanket or string algae that adheres to rocks and waterfalls.

Answer 2

Green Pond Water

Answer 3

If you are getting an algal bloom and your fish are dying even though you have a filter and uv system it sounds to me like tou have excess nitrogen in your pond.This is produced mainly from waste produced by the fish or any other aquatic annimals present but can also come from uneaten food.
Also your filter and UV may not be working at 100% efficiency.

Ask yourself the following questions.
Have I been overfeeding my fish? - remember they become quite dormont over winter and will not need as much food.

Have I got too many fish/creatures in my pond? - agin this will produce more nitrogen than you filters can deal with.

Are my filtration systems working properly? - Ideally you should be pumping at least half the pond volume through your filter every hour.also a UV bulb should really be replaced once every year as it looses efficiency.When was it replaced?When did you last clean out your filter?

Am I getting enough oxygenation? A waterfall/ fountain and oxygenating plants all help this.It is a good idea to clear out all your plants in autumn including dead leaves, clean them up and thin out the root systems ( water lillies can go mad very quickly)You will in the process remove loads of dead matter at the same time.

You will always get a bit of an algal bloom in early summer.This is normal as sunlight increases, but just keep fishing this out and if all else is ok you should end up with a clear pond.

Good luck

Answer 4

Had this problem and resolved it by a combination of good planting, especially oxygenating weed(Canadian or parrot), marginals like iris/flags and reeds, and a UV water pump. The pump, with its filter box, had a fountain outlet, which provided a good oxygen source. You might need a bigger pump and filter system. The initial stage is manually clearing the green growth from the water surface with a net.
Keep the pond clean by preventing leaf fall in the water around Autumn time. Check on the well and spring source of the water. There may be impurities getting into the supply!
These things can mean some expenditure, but for your fish, it's worth the trouble.

Answer 5

The short answer is algae is thriving on what pond plants normally 'eat'. Thus your pond is out of balence. How old is it? Young pond will have the green algae issue. It needs more plants. Underwater plants, pond lillies and marginal plants. Once they take over there will be no nutrients for the algae to live on. Thus (young) ponds with no established plant system will have green water. Forget all the UV, chemicals and other 'tricks'. They are for the most part a waste of money and do not address the number 1 problem. Some algae 'fixing' chemicals also take oxygen out of the water which is dangerous to the fish. My pond is finally starting not to get green thanks to my pond plants. It also won't hurt to run some of your pond through a small vegie filter filled with marginal pond plants. Check the internet for such designs and info.

Answer 6

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There are no plants in the pond. Nature tries to fill the vacuum of missing plants with a handy substitute, single cell algae. If you add koi over 18 inches or so, plants are not an option, at least not in the pond. You could have a "veggie" filter, a separate pond crescent or other shape near the pond that circulates water through it. Sunlight acting on the pond's water produces ozone and hydrogen peroxide in trace amounts enough to eradicate the green water over time in conjunction with the aquatic plants. With heavy shading, the water has less than the natural level of these substances, causing the water to have a high bacteria count hard on the fish. You can use a UV sterilizer in line with your filter to eradicate the green water and any harmful bacteria and tiny infective stages of fish parasites. It is important to use the right size pump with UV. If you can't find the perfect size, a slightly smaller pump is much better than too big a pump. Green water is a spring time stage that usually clears on its own. By extensively cleaning the pond, you start it back at the beginning and the green water stage is repeated. Rotifers are small aquatic animals that eat green water and they live on the surfaces of filter material and on the surface of the pond liner and decor. Clean to remove clogging and debris, not to remove all of the beneficial bacteria and life forms like rotifers that perform biological filtration. Live daphnia, if you can get enough of it that your orfe don't eat it all before it can eat the green water, will quickly remove all of the single cell algae. Some live daphnia carry hitch hikers on their shells of live rotifers, often an apple green daphnia looks rusty red because of a coating of rotifers on its shell. So even if the orfe eat all of the daphnia quickly, you could inoculate your pond with rotifers too, and those are too small for the orfe to notice separately from the daphnia.

Answer 7

You have an algae bloom. Usually cause by high waste in the water and warmer water temp.
There is an algicide available that is safe for ponds and fish, get some and follow the directions.
Toads have to go - they are fouling the water and could be a cause.
Koi are high oxygen users, so is algae, your Koi most likely suffocated as with the rest of you do not get rid of the algae.
Please do so, I hate to hear of Koi dieing - they are beautiful.

Answer 8

This is most definitely pollution from the toads. You need to act fast and remove the majority of them (I suggest you put them in a bucket and take them to the nearest local reserve). You then need to change some of the water in your pond, put in green water and then check the UV because the bulb could need replacing (these need changing approx. every 9 months) or the housing could be cracked or calciumed up. Good luck, hope you manage to save your friends.

Answer 9

Read the answer by barrowman it's all you need to know. Do not look for snails. They can carry a virus called carp pox. the carp will certainly eat the snails and pick up the virus. Some of my fish have it, it looks like melted candle wax on them. Best of luck with the green water.

Answer 10

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Answer 11

For a natural solution put a bundle of straw in a net bag and put into the water and leave. In a few days you will see a differance. if you want you can do a semi water change just to speed process up