Traits:
Uromastyx can be long-lived pets if maintained properly.
Their lifespan can reach more than 50 years.
One of the most sought after reptiles among hobbyists.
Adult length up to 16".
Temperature/Humidity:
Daytime temperature 75ºF - 90ºF.
Basking area temperature 115ºF - 125ºF.
Highttime temperature 68ºF - 75ºF.
The humidity for these desert lizards should be kept very low.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet lights for 12 hours per day.
A timer will assist in maintaining an accurate schedule.
Feeding/Watering:
A diet should include vegetables, fruit, and grains.
Suggested foods:
Mustard
Collard
Radish
Turnip greens or clover, legumes, mulberry
Legumes, mulberry and grape leaves, roses, hibiscus
Thawed frozen mixed vegetables (peas, lima beans, carrots, green beans).
Use four vegetables to every fruit per meal.
Crickets can be offered as a dietary supplement about once a week.
Feeding every day is suggested.
Always remove food four hours after it is offered.
Bird seed (finch or parakeet mix) can be sprinkled over every other meal.
Habitat/Housing:
A 35 to 50 gallon terrarium..
A screen lid is essential for proper air exchange.
Uromastyx are best kept singularly.
An undertank heater should be placed on the same end of the tank as the basking lamp.
A shelter for hiding is necessary.
Substrate:
2" to 3" inches of Repti-Sand is recommended.
Responsible pet ownership begins on the trip home!
For the best health and well being of your pet, it is important to remember to take it directly home. If you have more shopping or errands to complete, consider picking up your pet last. This will ensure the animal encounters the least amount of stress possible. Have the new terrarium completely set up before bringing your new friend "home&home". Additionally, make sure your new family member is allowed enough time to adjust to its new home. Wait three or four days before attempting to handle your pet and always supervise children when they interact with pets.
Temperature/Humidity:
Ideal daytime temperature for uromastyx should range between 75 and 90 degrees. Additionally, a basking lamp should be used to maintain a local temperature of 115 to 125 degrees. Night time temperature should remain between 68 and 75 degrees. The humidity for these desert lizards should be kept very low.
Lighting:
All uromastyx require ultraviolet lighting to maintain good health. Ultraviolet lighting is recommended for 12 hours per day. The use of a timer will help maintain an accurate lighting schedule.
Feeding/Watering:
Mali uromastyx are mainly vegetarian (eat only plant matter). Therefore their diet should include vegetables, fruit, and grains. Suggested foods: dark, leafy greens (mustard, collard, radish, and turnip greens or tops, kale, dandelion leaves-stems-flowers, bok-choy, non-treated backyard grasses and weeds, clover), legumes, mulberry and grape leaves, roses, hibiscus, nasturtiums, carnation flowers, cured alfalfa and timothy hay, soaked alfalfa pellets, thawed frozen mixed vegetables (peas, corn, lima beans, carrots, green beans), peas in the pod, cauliflower, soy bean sprouts, jicama, radishes, summer and winter squashes, grapes, apples, oranges, pear, prickly pear fruit, peaches, plums, nectarines, dates, all types of melons, strawberries, raspberries, bananas, mangoes, and tomatoes. When feeding fruits & vegetables, use four vegetables to every fruit per meal. It may be best to only offer fruits in every third or fourth feeding. Red fruits are great for shy eaters as reptiles are naturally attracted to the color red. Crickets can be offered as a dietary supplement about once a week. Feeding uromastyx every day is suggested as well as dusting food with vitamin/calcium powder every other feeding. Always remove food four hours after it is offered to prevent spoilage. Additionally, uromastyx benefit greatly when bird seed (finch or parakeet mix) is sprinkled over every other meal. This aids in digestion.
Habitat/Housing:
Individual uromastyx can be maintained in a 35 to 50 gallon terrarium. A screen lid is essential for proper air exchange. Uromastyx are best kept singularly. However, for multiple pets, increase habitat size accordingly to ensure each uromastyx has plenty of space to move about and not interfere with tankmates. An undertank heater should be placed on the same end of the tank as the basking lamp. A shelter for hiding is necessary, especially if multiple pets are in the same enclosure.
Substrate (Bedding):
2" to 3" inches of Repti-Sand is recommended for uromastyx terrariums to encourage their natural burrowing instinct.
General info:
Uromastyx can be long-lived pets if maintained properly. It is estimated that their lifespan can reach more than 50 years. These unique desert lizards are quickly becoming one of the most sought after reptiles among hobbyists.
Size: Adult length up to 16"
2007-02-09 03:01:14
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answer #1
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answered by Isadora Marie's Mommy 4
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I'm sorry but the guy that answered first posted a bunch of info that is like 20 years old. I'm sure Randall Gray has more up to date info but that surely is not it. The best place I can think of to learn more is following the link I'll post as my source to Deer Fern Farms. They are one of the largest if not THE largest Uromastyx breeding facility and they have been very successful in captive breading and have been the only known place to breed certain species in captivity. Checking out forums such as kingsnake and repticzone are good places as well. Just be cautious as a lot of websites have very old and outdated info and now that they have been studied better there is more up to date info.
2007-02-09 01:07:57
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answer #2
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answered by Jaffar 3
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First, there are several species of Uromastyx. The care is pretty similar, but the ease of keeping, coloration, and adult size can be different between the species. All like it HOT! Here are some websites where you can learn more about their care:
http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/uromastyx.php
http://www.anapsid.org/uromastyx.html
http://www.kingsnake.com/uromastyx/index.html
2007-02-08 14:09:54
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answer #3
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answered by copperhead 7
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Ya they're meant to be more effective vegetarians than something, yet vets might want to understand whats undesirable and robust for the variety of lizard. yet when you're uncertain about feeding it a pinky you may want to even try feeding it uncomplicated 5 bean soup mixture. this might want to be adequate foodstuff for the lizard.
2016-10-17 06:06:47
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answer #4
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answered by ? 4
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CARE SHEET FOR THE GENUS UROMASTYX
Randall L. Gray
INTRODUCTION
These interesting lizards have become more popular during the last few years. Unfortunately there is little known about the genus. The following guidelines will help maintain these animals in captivity. Hopefully as more people work with the genus success stories will become more numerous. The only way to ensure better husbandry for these unusual lizard is for all herpetoculturists to share their information.
TAXONOMY AND DISTRIBUTION
There are approximately 13 species in the genus Uromastyx. These lizards are adapted to arid regions and are found from northwestern India throughout southwestern Asia and the Arabian Peninsula to the Sahara of Africa (Moody 1987). Members of this genus are referred to as dab lizards or spiny tailed lizards. There are six species (U. aegyptius, U. ornatus, U. ocellatus, U. acanthinurus, U. hardwicki, and U. benti) which are occasionally available in the United States. The other seven species are seldom if ever imported. Uromastyx aegyptius is the largest member of the genus with individuals reaching 30 inches or more in total length and weighing several pounds. The other species are usually under 14 inches in total length. Coloration is variable between and within species. Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx hardwicki are usually dark to light brown. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be yellow, green, bright orange or a combination of these colors. Uromastyx ornatus are sexually dimorphic with adult males being green or blue green with blotches of yellows and oranges. Females have more subtle yellows, browns, and some orange.
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
Behavior differs between species and even individuals within the same species. Some, Uromastyx acanthinurus and Uromastyx aegyptius, can be very shy, often retreating to a hide spot when someone approaches the cage. Others, Uromastyx ornatus, will often be tame. Individuals differ in their behaviors and you can find exceptions to the above generalizations. Large numbers of Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx ornatus have been imported into the country during the last few years. The US Fish and Wildlife Service estimated that 7,000 members of the genus were brought in 1994. For unknown reasons the death rate for Uromastyx ornatus is rumored to be as high as 80% during the first two months of captivity. Uromastyx aegyptius is hardier and with proper treatment adapts to captivity. Uromastyx acanthinurus have not been imported from Morocco for several years, however, a few animals occasionally come from Europe and a only two private breeders are known to occasionally produce captive born animals. There is probably less than 100 animals in the United States. This species adjusts well to captivity even if reproductive success is not common.
SEXING
The presence of large femoral pores with waxy protuberance and hemipene bulges can often distinguish males, however this is not obvious on all species. Males tend to have broader heads but this is often subtle or misleading. Uromastyx ornatus are the easiest to sex due to enlarged femoral pores on the males and adult males are more colorful than females. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be extremely difficult to sex. Probing does not work with Uromastyx acanthinurus and may not be a useful tool for the genus.
SOCIAL BEHAVIOR
Most lizards are territorial, which means that the male and sometimes the female will defend an area from members of the same species or even other species. Often in captivity two male lizards will fight openly. Even if aggression is not overt, the submissive male can be adversely affected. Research with green iguanas indicates that submissive males in sight or smell of a dominant male have slower growth rates. Uromastyx males should be housed separately. Some herpetoculturists even house females individually and only introduce them to males during the breeding season (Matt Moyle, personal communication). CAGING Each species of lizard is adapted to specific environmental conditions. Knowledge about a species macro and micro habitat is critical in designing a cage setup, however limited information is available regarding habitat type for each species of Uromastyx. Generally the species are found in deserts, therefore they are best kept in desert set-ups. Cages can consist of glass aquariums, metal stock tanks, or wooden boxes. Sand, dirt and newspaper are often used for substrate. Rocks or other objects should be placed in the cage to allow climbing and basking sites. Any heavy objects, such as rocks, must be securely anchored or the lizard will burrow underneath causing the rock to fall and crush it. Hide boxes provide the animals with a sense of security and are especially important for gravid females. Uromastyx can and should be kept outside during the summer or all year in the southwestern United States where temperatures seldom drop below the mid 60's F. A variety of outdoor caging types can be constructed, including a simple sheet metal ring sunk 12 inches in the ground and standing 24 inches above ground (the height is adjusted depending upon the size of the animals). Outdoor cages should be secured with a wire top to prevent predators (e.g. cats, birds, raccoons) from entering.
TEMPERATURE
These lizards are adapted to hot desert conditions. The cage should have a daytime hot basking spot where the temperature exceeds 120 F, however the lizard must be able to retreat to areas in the low 90's. Incandescent spotlights can provide hot basking spots. The wattage selected depends upon the size of the cage. Thermometers should be placed at both ends of the cage and monitored to ensure a proper temperature gradient. Under tank heaters can be used to supplement heat, however these are diurnal species and regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun. Spotlights more accurately approximately the way diurnal lizards obtain their heat naturally. Night time temperatures should be less that the daytime highs. Temperatures should be allowed to drop into the mid 60's F.
LIGHTING
Ultraviolet light is believed to be important for most lizards. Unfiltered sunlight (i.e. not through glass) is the best sources of ultraviolet light and lizards should always be exposed to sun whenever possible. There are several full spectrum fluorescent light bulbs on the market. Most claim that they duplicate the sun's light spectrum, however it is unlikely that any can achieve the intensity of ultraviolet light emitted by the sun. There is no scientific research supporting the assumption that these bulbs are beneficial, however there use is recommended since there is some antidotal evidence that they provide psychological benefits to the lizards. The new ZOOMED full spectrum bulb appears to have the highest UVA and UVB of any of the full spectrum bulbs on the market, therefore it is recommended.
WATER
Most desert species are adapted to live without free water. Uromastyx ornatus comes from the Sinai Peninsula where it rains less than 2 inches per year. Many species obtain moisture from the food they consume. There is evidence that some species, such as the Australian Moloch and North American horned lizards, collect morning dew on their scales which is then channeled toward the mouth. Many herpetoculturists soak their Uromastyx aegyptius in water and claim that the animal swells as it absorbs water. Whether the animal is actually filling up with water or only filling it's body cavity with air is unknown. Considering that this is a desert species, soaking in water seems inconsistent with adaptations to arid conditions and could lead to respiratory infections if the animal does not thoroughly dry after soaking. Water can be provided infrequently in a bowl. The bowl should not be left for long periods in the cage or it can raise the humidity to possibly unacceptable levels. Baby Uromastyx ornatus will drink water sprayed on the side of the cage.
FOOD
Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they consume both animal and plant materials. Since there is no data about the specific nutritional requirements of this genus a large variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week. The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the salad. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the salad. Some of the commercial iguana chows can also be mixed in with the salad to ensure better nutrition. There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow growth rates. For example, I obtained two captive born Uromastyx aegyptius that were three inches long. Within eight months one animal was five inches long and the other 11 inches and much bulkier. The only difference in husbandry was that the larger animal would eat insects and smaller one would not. I have also observed slow growth in captive born Uromastyx acanthinurus.
REPRODUCTION
Several zoos (Christie 1993, Thatcher 1990, Wheeler 1988) and private breeders have successfully bred Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus. However reproduction is not a regular occurrence. All breeders provide a winter cool down to stimulate reproduction. Apparently Uromastyx take several years to reach sexual maturity. As a comparison, North American chuckawallas, an ecological equivalent, take five to seven years to reach sexual maturity. Some of the smaller Uromastyx may reach sexual maturity in two or three years.
LITERATURE CITED
Christie, Bill. 1993. The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard at the Indianapolis Zoo. Captive
Breeding 1(3):20-25.
Moody, Scott. 1987. A preliminary cladistic study of the lizard genus Uromastyx
(Agamidae, sensulato), with a checklist and diagnostic key to the species. In
Proceedings of the Fourth Ordinary General Meeting of the Societas Europaea
Herpetologica; (eds.) J. J. van Gelder, H. Strijbosch and P. J. M. Bergers.
Thatcher, Terry. 1990. The reproduction in captivity of the North African spiny-tailed
lizard, Uromastyx acanthinurus. British Herpetological Society Bulletin. 40:9-13
Wheeler, Scott. 1988. Husbandry of the spiny-tailed agama (Uromastyx acanthinurus)
at the Oklahoma City Zoo. In Proceedings of the 11th International Herpetological
Symposium on Captive Propagation and Husbandry. (ed.) Michael J. Uricheck.
2007-02-08 11:34:36
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answer #5
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answered by Mikael 2
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