Hardiplank Install Problem - I just had a nice winter month with 200 gallons of fuel spent?

Question

I just had a nice winter month with 200 gallons of LP spent. I am concerned the installers did not properly install the plank. We removed the old LP/GP composite planking. Underneath, there was no sheathing. The original homebuilder just nailed the LP plank directly to the vertical 2/4's or 2/6's. There was a small insulating panel that appeared to be installed from the interior of the home. Sort of odd. Well the condition after they removed the siding was simply vertical studs then about 3 inches of space then the insulation.

The contractor simply put the Tyvek wrap on the studs and nailed the hardi without sheathing or insulation. Is this a nonstandard procedure?? I wish I had been onsite or had the knowledge that this condition existed before I signed the contract. I would have gladly signed a change order if I was informed we could have improved the efficiency. I can feel a significant amount of Air through baseboard and vents and basically any hole in the wall. I hav

Answer 1

I'm not sure what state your in but normal code framing in the midwest & Michigan where I'm from, would be to get the most R-value between the studs as possible via fiberglass or cellulose insulation. The exterior should have some form of sheathing over the studs, plywood, osb, or even dow type 1" foam. Wood sheath will add strength to the structure & also allow the siding to be nailed between studs if necessary. You can also add foam backer to the wood sheathing to beef up R- value on the outside too.The house wrap should go over the sheathing & all seams , plus around windows should be tape sealed to create an envelope effect. The house wrap will not provide R-value but if properly installed will help keep air from getting into the house while letting interior moisture exit out. Hope this answers some of your questions. Sounds like a poor contracting job, & maybe you might have some legal means to get some of your money back, or have the job done correctly if indeed it was not done to code or proper standards. You might wan't to check and see if the installer was required to pull a permit to do the job & if so and they didn't, this could help if you decide to go the legal route....Unfortunately It will be a great expense to do it properly!

Answer 2

You are right and wrong all at the same time. While the install was the problem, it isn't a problem w/ how the hardiplank was installed, but the lack of what wasn't. Tyvek is a good barrier against wind and moisture, but lacks in normal, ordinary, everyday cold. A proper installation should have allowed for insulation (R factor depends on your location) in between the studs, an OSB plywood on the outside of the studs, wrap this in Tyvek, then put the hardiplank on.

What can be done now? Start over again, but this will be very expensive either way. Whether you try to add insulation from the inside or out, you are looking at major work. Perhaps if you have an attic you can access from there. Try to blow insulation between the studs. MOST houses you will not be able to do this, but you may get lucky. It isn't the best fix, but is better than tearing either the inside or outside of your house up.

Answer 3

pull off the top two boards around the whole house. drill a 3 inch hole in the sheathing between each stud. blow in cellulose insulation to fill each stud gap. re install the top 2 boards around the house to cover the holes. very easy. pay a insulation contractor to blow it in, or rent the machine from lowe's. use a 3inch hole saw( or what ever size you need to get the insulation nozzle into the cavity.

Answer 4

This spring, I would strip off the planks and the tyvek. Add insulation to fill the 3" space, sheet it, tyvek it and re-plank it.

Answer 5

Is this a new house??If this is new orcolse to new contact the Building Inspector.. He might have some answers for you. From what you say it does not appear to be built to existing codes, both state and federal...