How do you figure out the grain of a fabric for sewing? Why do you need to know?

Question

I am an amateur sewer, and I often find sewing projects asking me to find out the grain of the fabric. I haven't a clue how to do this, and haven't been able to find any literature that gives an easy-to-understand answer. They mention selvage and that it's parallel to that, but what does that mean??! Could anyone explain this to me in very, very simple terms. It would also be helpful to know WHY this matters when sewing something.

Thanks for your help!

Answer 1

Here is a direct quote from my quilting book.
"When fabric is produced threads are woven in two directions, creating a length and a width. This is called the straight of grain. If you cut diagonally ac cross the grain (in triangle pieces) you are working on the bias. Bias edges must be sewn and pressed carefully, since they stretch easily. The long finished edges of the fabric are called the selvages. Always trim off the selvage edges since they can cause distortion of the block and are difficult to hand quilt through."

Depending on what you are sewing the block comment probably won't apply. However, the selvages are plain white or the same color of the base color of the fabric, and usually have printing on them. If you are sewing clothing this wouldn't be attractive in use. The length of the grain goes along the selvage, while the cross grain goes from selvage to selvage. The bias of the grain would go from opposite corners (IE top left to bottom right) of the fabric.
Why it matters is the strength of the grain. Your length grain is going to be stronger and stretch less then your cross grain. The bias is the weakest grain since it cuts across both grains.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy your sewing!

Answer 2

When the store cuts the fabric for you, the selvage edges are usually folded together. They cut across the selvage ends to cut your fabric from the bolt.

As was said above, knowing the lay of the grain can be important for fabrics with a nap (velvets) or one way patterns. And it can be important because sometimes you'll lay pattern pieces a certain way across the grain to gain all the strength you can from the weaving.

When making clothes it's also important because how you lay the pattern pieces on the grain affects how they flow and stretch when you sew them together.

Pattern pieces have long arrows on them that should go parallel to the selvage edges. The way I learned to pin patterns is to start pinning one of the sides of the long arrows, measuring how far it is from the selvage edge, then measuring the same distance up and pinning the other end of the arrow there. Then pin the edges of the piece down. It's a pain sometimes but it helps ensure that the fabric all hangs nicely when you're finished sewing it together.

Answer 3

The selvage is just the side end of your fabric. If you are using a pattern, it will be the open side of your fabric when it is folded in half. The grain, another word for the nap, is the direction the material flows. You may have noticed on velvet or corduroy that it looks one color when you rub it one way and looks darker or lighter when you rub it back the other way. You want to cut your pattern so that it all goes one way, usually the smooth way running down towards the bottom. Some fabrics also have a design, such as floral, or stripes, that need to be cut in one direction. If you lay the pattern piece for a pocket or collar wrong, you will have a pattern running different from the rest of your outfit. If you don't have to worry about the design and cannot feel a difference in your fabric when you rub your hand up and down it, you probably don't have to worry about it. Most patterns have a "lay-out' that will show you how to cut out your pattern, based on the width of your fabric. If you follow the lay-out and cut your pieces in the direction it shows, you'll be alright.

Answer 4

Put in simple terms.. Make a small snip at the salvage edge ( the finished edge ), Tear the fabric from one side to the other. Can't do it? Make the snip and tear further down the salvage edge. Keep doing this until you can tear from one salvage to the other. THEN, your fabric will be 'on grain'.The print on the fabric has nothing to to with the 'grain' If your fabric is not 'on grain' it will stretch (for a lack of a better term) in the wrong direction....This should be step ONE in any garment construction!

Answer 5

i might want to commence with woven cotton. try a pillow. do you pick to how one can stitch? how one can study a trend. get basic kinds on the cloth save. A PJ bottom is a sturdy newbie challenge. you pick flannel for them. get some books out of your library too. yet to commence, get some woven cotton and play such as your gadget. study the way it truly works and what it may do. be smooth threading it and winding the bobbin. hit upon a thanks to stitch a instantly stitch, protecting it a 5/8", this is what maximum garment seams are sewn at. hit upon a thanks to apply the zig zag stitch. i might want to discover some cotton on sale to play round with.