homework due tom!!! could somone tell me how a faucet works, details at the bottom?

Question

in how it works, it should hav somthin to do with a rubber washer, then, why does the faucet drip, and then how to fix it
need it in 7 hours!!!, thank you xoxo

Answer 1

How to Repair a Leaky Faucet
Faucets are a key part of your home for an obvious reason: They dispense water. Therefore, keeping your faucets in working condition is of great importance. A number of things can go wrong with your faucets, from leaks to noise. Sometimes you'll need to replace a faucet altogether to solve the problem. In this article, we'll show you how to make a number of basic repairs to your home's faucet system, including to spray hoses. We'll start by addressing leaky faucets.

Repairing a Leaky Faucet

A dripping faucet is the most common plumbing problem as well as one of the easiest to repair. Yet many people ignore it and leave the dripping faucet unrepaired. That costs money. A steady drip can waste $20 or more in water in a short time. Multiply that figure by the number of faucet drips in your home, and you can calculate how much of your money is literally going down the drain. The waste from a dripping hot water faucet is even more because you're also paying to heat the water before it goes down the drain.

What's the solution? A drip is caused by seepage from the water supply. Remember the water supply enters your home under pressure, so there must be a watertight seal holding back the incoming water when the faucet handle is in the OFF position. That seal is usually created by a washer pressed tightly against the faucet seat. Obviously, when the washer or the seat is not functioning properly, a little water can seep through and drip out of the faucet spout. To stop the drip, all you usually have to do is replace the washer or repair the seat.

The first thing to do when fixing a faucet drip is to turn off the water supply. You should be able to turn off the supply at a nearby shutoff, but, if your house is not equipped with shutoffs for individual fixtures, you'll have to go to the main shutoff and turn off the entire water supply to your home. What follows are ways to address the various causes of faucets drips.

Compression-type faucets: No matter what a compression-type faucet looks like, whether it has separate handles for hot and cold water or just one that operates both hot and cold, it operates according to certain basic principles.

Here's how to disassemble a compression-type faucet and stop a drip:

What You'll Need
Use these tools on a compression-type faucet:

Screwdriver
Penetrating oil
Slip-joint pliers or adjustable wrench
Replacement washers


Step 1: Shut off water supply, and remove faucet handle held to main body of faucet by unscrewing tiny screw on top or at back of handle. Some screws are hidden by metal or plastic button or disc that snaps out or is threaded. Once you get button out, you'll see top-mounted handle screw. If necessary, use penetrating oil, such as WD-40, to help loosen it.

Step 2: Remove handle, and look at faucet assembly. Remove packing nut with large pair of slip-joint pliers or adjustable wrench, being careful not to scar metal. Twist out stem or spindle by turning it in the same direction you would to turn on faucet.

Step 3: Remove screw that holds washer. Use penetrating oil, if necessary, to loosen screw. Examine screw and stem, replacing if damaged.



A typical compression-type stem faucet is closed by a washer when
the handle is turned. Most leaks are caused by faulty washers.



Step 4: Replace old washer with an exact replacement. Washers that almost fit will almost stop the drip. Also note whether old washer is beveled or flat, and replace it with one that is identical. Washers designed only for cold water expand greatly when they get hot, thereby closing the opening and slowing the flow of hot water. Some washers will work for either, but you should make sure the ones you buy are exact replacements.

Step 5: Fasten new washer to the stem, and reinstall assembly in faucet. Turn stem clockwise. With stem in place, put packing nut back on. Be careful not to scar metal with wrench.

Step 6: Reinstall handle and replace button or disc. Turn water supply back on, and check for leaks.

Answer 2

These work OK.

Answer 3

Your on a computer. Google it.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/pl_faucets/article/0,2037,DIY_14186_2270854,00.html
Compression faucets, often found in older homes, have separate handles for hot and cold water.


Cartridge-type faucets are one of the easiest types to repair because there's usually only one part to replace -- the cartridge.



The ball-type faucet is popular for use in kitchens, as it requires only one hand to regulate both the flow and temperature of the water.



The disc-type faucet is top quality and tends to require fewer repairs than other types.



Figure A



Figure B



Figure C



Figure D



Figure E



No matter what kind of faucet you're repairing, the first step is always to turn off the water at the shutoff valves under the sink. Turn both shut-off valves clockwise to the off position, then turn the faucet handles to the on position to drain any remaining water.



Figure F



Figure G



Figure H



Figure I



Figure J



Figure K



Figure L



Figure M



Figure N



Figure O



Figure P



Figure Q



Figure R



Figure S



Figure T



Figure U



Though plumbing problems may seem complicated, many -- such as the most common one, the leaky faucet -- are fairly simple to fix if approached methodically. Master plumber Ed Del Grande takes some of the mystery out of faucet repair by explaining how to identify types of faucets, purchase the proper replacement parts and repair the most common kinds of drips and leaks.

Faucets come in four basic types: compression, cartridge, ball and disc-type. It's good to be familiar with each, as it's not unusual for a home to have more than one variety.

Compression faucets have separate handles for controlling hot and cold water. Inside each handle is a brass stem assembly with a rubber washer held on the end by a screw (figure A). As the handle turns, the rubber washer is compressed over an opening, or seat, within the faucet body, shutting off the flow of water -- much as you use your thumb to stop the flow of water from a garden hose. Compression faucets all work on the same principle, though stem assemblies vary from one manufacturer to another (figure B). When replacing a stem assembly, take the old one to the home-improvement center with you to make sure you buy a suitable replacement.

Cartridge faucets are so named because inside their handle is a movable brass or plastic cartridge. The cartridge moves up and down so that its holes line up with the water supply, permitting water to flow through. Cartridge faucets may be single- or double-handled. They're easy to fix because all that's generally required is dropping in a new cartridge. As with compression stems, various manufacturers' cartridges vary (figure C). Take the old one with you when shopping for a replacement.

Ball-type faucets have a single handle that regulates the flow of water and adjusts the water temperature. Inside the handle is a hollow plastic or stainless-steel ball (figure D). As you move the handle, hot and cold water mix as they flow through the ball. Minor adjustments to the handle allow you to regulate the temperature. Ball-type faucets tend to be more leak-prone than other types because they contain more parts.

Disc faucets usually have one handle. A cylinder housed inside the faucet body contains two ceramic or plastic discs (figure E). As the handle is turned, the discs glide over each other, allowing their holes to line up and adjust the flow of water. Sometimes a leak in a disc faucet can be stopped by cleaning or replacing worn O-rings. When this type of faucet malfunctions, however, it's usually best to replace the whole cylinder.

Cartridge, ball and disc-type faucets are often called washerless because they don't use rubber washers -- the part of the assembly that receives the most wear. The term is somewhat misleading, however, as those types of faucets still contain some form of rubber seal or O-ring that can go bad. In general, though, washerless types require fewer repairs.

Tip:

When repairing a faucet, close the sink's stopper, and cover it with a rag to prevent small parts from falling into the drain.
Materials:

Faucet-repair kit (for compression or ball-types)
Replacement cartridge (for cartridge or disc type, if needed)
Phillips-head screwdriver
Flat-head screwdriver
Slip-joint pliers
Allen wrench
Utility knife
Heat-proof plumber's grease
Rags
Seat wrench (for compression-type faucet)
Needle-nose pliers (for cartridge-type faucet)



Repairing a Compression Faucet

If a compression-type faucet continues to drip after both handles are turned to the off position, remove both handles to inspect for damage to the stem assemblies.

Turn the water shut-off valves under the sink to the off position, then turn the faucet handles to the on position to drain any remaining water.

If there is a decorative cap on top of the handle, carefully pop it off with a utility knife (figure F) to expose the screw holding the handle in place. Remove the screw with a Phillips-head screwdriver, and pull off the handle to expose the stem assembly. (You may need to pry the handle off gently with a screwdriver. If so, pad the screwdriver with a rag to avoid damaging the faucet.) With the handle out of the way, use slip-joint pliers to remove the retaining nut that holds the stem in place (figure G).

Inspect the stem assembly for damage. Check the rubber washer on the end. If it looks OK, unscrew the packing nut to see whether there is damage to the O-rings inside (figure H). If the washer is damaged, remove the screw, and replace the old washer with a new one. If an O-ring is bad, cut it off with a utility knife, coat a new one with heat-proof grease, and slide the new O-ring into place on the stem, using a flat-head screwdriver as a guide (figure I). An alternative to replacing washers and rings is to replace the entire stem assembly. If you decide to take this course, it's best to replace the stems on both the hot- and cold-water sides. Note that because the hot- and cold-water handles often turn in opposite directions, the hot and cold stem assemblies may be different. Make sure to buy the right parts. Some are color-coded to indicate hot or cold.

If both the washer and O-rings look good, use your finger to check for rough spots around the valve seat inside the faucet (figure J). If the seat is damaged, the faucet may not make a watertight seal even with new washers. Use a specially made seat-wrench to remove damaged seats, and replace them (figure K).

Once repairs are complete, reassemble the faucet: drop in the repaired (or new) stem assembly, and tighten the retaining nut with slip-joint pliers. Replace the handles, and secure them with their screws. Replace the decorative cap.

Turn the water supply back on, and check both hot- and cold-water sides to make sure they both work properly and without drips.
Repairing a Cartridge-Type Faucet

This is the simplest type faucet to repair because it involves replacing only one part: the cartridge. The best technique is to remove the damaged cartridge and take it to the home-improvement center to find a replacement.

Tip:

Check to see whether a solid-brass replacement cartridge is available. Brass cartridges far outlast plastic.
After turning off the water under the sink, remove the old cartridge. First remove the decorative cap to expose the screw holding the handle in place (figure L). Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screw, then remove the handle and decorative sleeve.

With the handle out of the way, use needle-nose pliers to remove the retaining clip (figure M) holding the cartridge in position. Carefully slide out the old cartridge.

Inspect the old cartridge. If it has more damage than a broken O-ring, you'll need to replace it.

Drop in the new cartridge and push it firmly into place.

Carefully replace the retaining clip and sleeve.

Reattach the handle and secure it with the screw.

Check the flow of water to make sure that the hot- and cold-water adjustments work properly. If hot water flows out when the handle is turned to cold, remove the handle and rotate the cartridge 180 degrees. Reattach the handle and check your results.

If everything works properly, replace the decorative cap, and you're done.
Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet

The ball-type faucet is prone to leaks in two places: the spout and at the faucet body. The repair kit for the ball-type contains the parts necessary to stop a leak from either source. (The ball mechanisms are usually sold separately, but these are seldom the source of the leak.)

The handle of the ball-type faucet rests on a dome-shaped body and is attached by a set-screw. Use an Allen wrench to loosen the set-screw enough to lift off the handle (figure N).

If the faucet is leaking from the base of the spout, use a spanner wrench (included in the ball-faucet repair kit) to tighten the locking collar by turning in a clockwise direction (figure O). If the leak stops, no further repair is required. Just reattach the handle.

If the leak continues or is coming from the end of the spout, you'll need to disassemble the faucet. First, close the water-shutoff valves under the sink.

Use slip-joint pliers to twist off the domed cap (figure P). You may want to wrap the jaws of the pliers to avoid marring the chrome finish.

Lift out the plastic cam and cam washer to expose the rotating ball. Take out the ball and inspect it for signs of wear.

Inside the faucet are two rubber valve seats that form a watertight seal against the rotating ball. Remove the valve seats by snaring them with a screwdriver. Use caution: there's a small spring behind each valve seat.

If the valve seats appear worn, replace them by lining up new springs and seats on the end of a screwdriver (figure Q) and carefully dropping them into place. Use your finger to press them in firmly. New valve seats should stop any leaks coming from the end of the spout.

If the leak originates from the base of the faucet, pull off the spout, and inspect the O-rings (figure R). If they appear worn, pry them loose with the hooked end of the spanner wrench. Coat new O-rings with heat-proof plumbers grease, and pop them into place with the spanner wrench.

Reassemble the faucet by putting the parts back in this order: spout, ball, plastic cam and cam washer, and domed cap. Tighten the collar ring with the spanner wrench, and replace the handle.

Turn the water on at the shutoff and check for leaks.
Repairing a Disc Faucet

The disc type is generally single-handled and is characterized a wide cylinder inside the faucet body. Disc faucets tend to be relatively maintenance-free. When they do leak, the caused is usually a worn or dirty seal or a crack in a ceramic disc. If the leak is caused by a faulty neoprene seal, cleaning or replacing it may solve the problem. If the disc is bad, the best remedy is to replace the cylinder.

After turning off the water at the shutoff, locate the set-screw, and loosen it with an Allen wrench to remove the handle.

Under the handle is a decorative escutcheon cap that may screw or pop off. With the cap out of the way, remove the cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder (figure S).

Remove the neoprene seals (figure T) and check them for debris, damage or wear. If the disc below the seal is dirty, try cleaning it with an abrasive kitchen pad, then rinse and replace it. If the seals are damaged, replace them. This may be all that's required to fix the problem. Reassemble the faucet and check for leaks. Important: Before turning on the shutoff valve to check for leaks, first turn the faucet to the on position, then very slowly turn on the water at the shutoff valve so any trapped air escapes gradually. Otherwise a pocket of air might be forced under great pressure into the cylinder and could crack the discs.

If the faucet still leaks after cleaning or replacing the seals, one of the discs is probably damaged. You'll need to repeat steps 1 and 2 in preparation for replacing the cylinder.
Tip:

It's often difficult to see damage to ceramic discs inside the cylinder of a disc-type faucet. Placing a drop of food coloring inside the cylinder openings may reveal hairline cracks in the disc that aren't otherwise visible.

After turning the water off and removing the escutcheon cap and mounting screws, carefully lift the old cylinder out of the faucet body and drop in the replacement (figure U).

Reassemble the faucet: tighten down the mounting screws, replace the escutcheon cap, and reinstall the handle.

Turn the faucet to the on position, and slowly turn on the water supply at the shutoff valve to check for leaks.





RESOURCES:
theplumber.com


Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
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Author: Max Alth
Sterling Publishing, 1987 Out of Print


Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
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Author: Peter Hemp
1994
The Taunton Press Inc
Newtown, CT 06470
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The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Model: 0783552912
Author: Time-Life Books (Editor)
1998
Time Life Books
Alexandria, VA 22314
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