Initialy, when both the hot water and central heating were both selected on, the hot water would heat up but the central heating would not come on until I moved the actuator from auto to manual. Called a plumber who changed the actuator (£110). Now when both the hot water and central heating are both selected the central heating comes on but the hot water will not heat up unless I turn the central heating off. Changed the thermostat but no difference. Checked all the wiring from the pump, actuator and thermostat which appear to be OK. The Plumber has given up and I'm on my own! The heating system is fairly new, the house was only built 4 years ago! Any thoughts?
2007-02-04 06:06:26 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
I assume that when you say actuator, you mean a motorised valve?? I suspect that the plumber has disturbed some wiring when fitting the replacement valve? This is usually a 5 core cable (4+E). I don't know what make it was but if it had failed, it's usually just a replacement motor that is required, about £15.00 + fitting. Is there a second valve for HW? You need an electrician familiar with heating controls (NOT ALL ARE!!) to check it out.
2007-02-04 06:46:03 · answer #1 · answered by jayktee96 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Yep, the problem is most commonly at the valves. First try to bleed the system of any trapped air by openning the valves. If this doesn't work, then flush the radiators and see if that helps. However, if these things fail, the pipes are probably clogged at the valves. It may be that you can re-plumb the and clear the stopped valve to get the down-line radiators operational. However, due to the age of the system, it is likely that they all have some significant degree of blockage. If it were me, and if the lower level is working, I'd re-pipe the whole upstairs to start. When you say 'conventional pipe', is it galvanized steel pipe or copper? Galvi, which was commonly used, rusts from the inside out and over a period of years, slowly strangles the pipes flow. Galvi is now considered an inferior material for plumbing, except for venting purposes. Consider, if you are dealing with Galvi and disconnect the pipe in question, it could be so badly rusted that it may crumble. You may not find enough good pipe to couple a quick fix repair. At minimum, be prepared to re-pipe the length between that good bathroom to the next radiator. Replace Galvi with copper. If it's more than you are comfortable with, then hire a licensed plumbing contractor for that bath to bedroom part of the job. Watch the plumber do the work, then maybe you can by the materials and do the rest yourself, especially if you have wrenches and can solder. The materials won't be too expensive, but the plumbers labor and profit margin on a complete re-pipe will not be cheap.
2016-05-24 04:14:44 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
There may have not actually been a problem with the valve/wiring in the first place!!!
Is the valve located in close proximity to the cylinder? When the valve is open for heating and hot water, it will take the path of least resistance, then once the cylinder stat reaches temperature, priority moves to Heating.. i have in the past called an electrician to double check my wiring only to find no fault with the wiring. the way to check this for certain is to remove the valve head, turn the system on with the valve in mid position and see if the radiators get hot.. if not, its simply the water taking the "shorter" journey through the cylinder....
The remedy for this is to have your heating and hot water on at different times or fit a gate valve in the return from the cylinder to try and rebalance the system.
2007-02-06 22:28:06 · answer #3 · answered by Buildersbum 1 · 0⤊ 1⤋
Hi David,
I had a similar on a new property a couple of years ago.
It seemed like the plumbers & electricians were in some dis-array.
There was, apparantly no overall plan, so the CH was wired to the HW, the transfer valve was plumbed in backwards, a hopeless situation, until I discovered the problems, and brought the b**gers back to put it right before moving in.
So much for "professionals" !
The whole system is straight forward. It only requires it to "speak" to each component. Boiler - valves - thermo, etc.
I guess that someone has made a b*lls-up, and needs to sort it out at their expense.
It happens, so all the best with it.
Cheers,
Bob.
2007-02-04 08:04:05 · answer #4 · answered by Bob the Boat 6 · 0⤊ 1⤋
Hi. If you have a 3 port mid position valve Y PLAN then it sounds like the orange and / or grey wires in the wiring centre have been replaced incorrectly. When the heating is turned off at the room stat power is sent to the cylinder stat to call for hot water. This problem is common where a system has been designed to deliver heating only whereas normal systems are designed to give hot water only or hot water and heating.
Good Luck.
2007-02-04 09:38:26 · answer #5 · answered by Martin 2 · 0⤊ 1⤋
I would think the problem is with the actuator.Try to open it manually by pushing a small lever on the side. If it makes it work okay, then you need a new actuator.
2007-02-04 07:26:24 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋
sounds like a wiring problem get a good insurance cover should be no problem with a new build.that £110.00 would of covered you for a year.thing to remember with new builds is they are fitted out by house bashers on a fixed low rate with a great deal of the work done by trainees or even worse untrained people
2007-02-04 09:00:30 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋