where can i find plans to build a jig for cutting crown moulding on a compound miter saw?

Answer 1

The jig is already on your saw. It's called the degree scale. DeWalt saws have arrows at 33.9 degrees, etc. (don't do residential anymore, so I can't remember the numbers). You hold the crown vertically against the fence, put the miter on 45 degrees and the bevel on whichever arrow/tit works for that size molding. That's if your going to cope it, of course, which is the right way to do it.

The other way is to 'bed' the molding on the miter saw base and fence, upside down, and set both angles to 45. The base is the ceiling and the fence is the wall. Cut it so that the point of the miter cut is on the back of the molding, like an inside corner, then use the profile as a guide to cope it back the other way. You can clamp a board to the base so that every piece sits the same way when you cut it.

The reason that coping is better is because wood contracts longitudinally. If you just 45 both pieces, both of them will contract away from each other in winter. Coping allows one board to pass behind the other, so when it contracts, it doesn't leave any gap. That reduces the contraction gap by half. (only one board shrinks away from the other)

Edit: When bedding the molding, it may not sit equally on the base and the fence. It just depends on the style of molding. Some sit more on the wall than the ceiling. Just cut a one foot piece off and hold it on the saw and see how the flats on the back sit. They should both be sitting flat on their surfaces. (it's the 1/2" or so flat part that touches the wall or ceiling).

Use that same one foot piece to mark a straight line on the wall, too. Set it in one corner like it's going to go and mark the bottom of it. Do the same at the other end and snap a chalk line (use blue chalk, not red). The surfaces are never straight or flat, but you want to make your molding as straight as possible (you don't want it to follow humps and dips in the ceiling.) Nail it to the wall first (a few feet at a time), and then nail it to the ceiling. Don't force it into any 'low' spots (valleys), or you will see a wave when its done. The whole point of crown molding is to hide these valleys, so dont accentuate them by pushing it up into them. Just caulk it and you'll never see it.

Answer 2

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Answer 3

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
where can i find plans to build a jig for cutting crown moulding on a compound miter saw?

Answer 4

Crown Moulding Jig

Answer 5

I use compound miter cut tables to make perfect miter cuts. You measure the corner, either inside corner, angle corner or outside corner with an angle measure, For example a square corner might be 89.52 degrees, then go to the tables for square inside corner or outside corner which ever it is . The tables give the exact saw settings. The tables are on sold on a per sheet basis I think around $2 post paid. What you can do then is lay the moulding flat on the saw downside and set the miter to a chart angle and set the saw to a set tilt angle and cut a perfect miter. I buy mine here but there are others just as good.
http://www.compoundmiter.com/chart.html

If you do miter cuts using these tables they will always come out perfect on first try. Those coping saw corners look bad and are troublesome to make expecially with Oak or a hard wood that you varnish stain and no filler is allowed.

Lowes sells an angle measure with a book of tables for around $35. I dont like the thing its so heavy and hard to set and understand especially on inside corners. Ive tried it and dont like it.

Answer 6

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I have a Dewalt 12" Sliding double bevel compound miter saw and install crown molding quite regularly. I find that using an 80 tooth thin kerf blade does the best job on both real wood as well as on mdf mouldings. If you are doing your entire house you will notice the difference when it comes time to stand back and admire your handy work. If you are doing mdf and have lots of tearing out of the cuts you will not be a happy camper. Get a decent blade that can be re-sharpened and you will do fine. I have had good results with Diablo blades.

Answer 7

Cutting and installing crown molding can be very tricky until you get the hang of it. I don't know of a jig to use. I have always just laid the crown molding on the saw the same way it will be installed and cut the 45's for either the inside or outside corners. By this I mean that I treat the back fence as the ceiling and the base plate as the wall. You will however need to allow for the ceiling to wall angel because it will generally be larger than 90 degrees. This is due to the corner finishing process. Of course you can ignore it and treat it as if it were 90 degrees and use Interior/Exterior Vinyl Spackling to fill and shape.where needed.

Answer 8

Crown Molding Jig

Answer 9

there are free guides to cutting crown on a compound saw
but there are 2 schools of thought
some say miter the corners ( you cut upside down and backwards )
some say straight cut one side, the miter and cope the return for tight fool proof mitres ( also known as compression mitres )

google how to cut crown molding and you see what i mean

Answer 10

If you are planning to start on your woodworking project, this isn't something you should use, it's something that you would be insane not to. Go here https://tr.im/GBSWQ
Truth is, I've been a carpenter for almost 36 years, and I haven't found anything like this for less than 10's of thousands of dollars.