what to do to speed my bike?

Answer 1

Pedal faster!!!

Answer 2

Well buddy that depends on what kinda bike u have. An under power bike is not worth speding else u r gonna screw ur machine. Ask the mechanic to open up the throttle and even the engine may need a bit of tuning for that.

Answer 3

Another question without an ounce of detail. Sounds like you can't ride and someone already said twist the throttle. Another suggestion is sell the piece of garbage and buy a R1, ZX-1000, GSXR-1000 or ZX-14 if you got big balls and are trying to get to 200mph. Buying a bunch of aftermarket parts is mostly a waste of money as buying a better motorcyle is almost always a cheaper option and aftermarket parts don't add much to your bikes resale value.

Answer 4

The most common upgrades to most bikes are full exhaust system, air cleaner, and power commander.

The next stop is inside the engine. Starting with cams and boring pistons.

Answer 5

hi mate here are some thing u need to take care of for a great bike performance....

Exhaust & Carburetion

Not too many years ago, one of the quickest ways to increase the performance of your motorcycle was to pull off the heavy and restrictive stock exhaust system and replace it with a lighter, higher-flowing aftermarket one. Well, there's no free lunch, and the after-market units were significantly louder than stock--negating, through the ill will of the general public, some of their impressive perfor-mance gains.

Exhaust Systems

Aftermarket exhaust modifications fall into two categories: full systems and slip-ons. The full systems replace the entire stock system. High-end exhausts with titanium headers still offer fair weight savings compared to the stock ones. Some headers have various tapers and crossovers to enhance low- and midrange torque while still improving top-end power. In fact, some systems offer minimal gains in peak power, choosing to instead shape the power curve for more midrange and a broader horsepower peak.

Jet Kits

All riders, not just racers, benefit from having a properly carbureted bike. While an aftermarket pipe may make your bike more powerful, making sure the carbs are properly jetted will result in more power and improved power delivery--whether you have a hot pipe bolted on or not. For example, getting optimum power and smoothness out of an inline-four may require different needle or jet settings for the center carburetors and the outer ones. Often, once the needles and jets are set correctly for all the carbs, a bike wakes up, producing more horsepower in the midrange, revving quicker and sounding significantly smoother.

Fuel Injection Remapping

When sportbikes began to arrive in showrooms with factory fuel injection, changing a bike's mixture was significantly more difficult than with carburetors.

Brakes

From all the attention focused on motorcycle engines, you'd think that gasoline fuels the most powerful system on a bike. You'd be wrong, though. Another liquid--hydraulic fluid--carries that honor. Brakes can scrub off speed faster than an engine can increase it. Consequently, maintaining your bike's brake system is para-mount to extracting maximum performance from it.

Brake Pads

Yes, you could run your brake pads to the absolute limits of their service, but performance often decreases before you run up against the prescribed wear limits. So ignore the wear marks--plan on replacing your pads when a minimum of 2 mm of the pad material remains.

Braided Stainless Steel Lines

Although you can't see OE brake lines expand when you squeeze the lever like you could in the Bad Old Days, fitting a set of braided stainless steel brake lines to your sportbike can have a dramatic effect on your bike's stopping power. The initial onset of braking will be much quicker since stainless lines don't expand at all. Because the lines are sheathed in metal (usually with a protective plastic outer coating), you don't have to worry about stainless lines cracking from age and exposure to the sun. Also, the Teflon interior line is less prone to becoming brittle than rubber lines. Oh yeah, and they look cool, too.

Aftermarket Discs

While brake pad technology has advanced to the point where compounds providing quick stops don't necessarily mean you wear your discs out that much faster, you may find a time when you want to replace your discs. The good news is that aftermarket discs are usually lighter and grippier than OE pieces.

Wheels & Tires

What can be said about tires? They're black and round and keep the wheels from touching the ground, right? Actually, they are your only link to the asphalt when you're riding your sportbike. Motorcycle and tire manufacturers spend more time studying how tires interact with the road than any of us can imagine.


Choosing The Right Tire

If bikes have refined their focus, tires have become laser beams directed at very specific activities. Race tires and street tires both benefit from these advances. Race tires are designed to give maxi-mum grip for an extremely limited time. To make things even more specific, they are formulated to work at temperatures only achieved at track speeds. Below those temperatures, they can be downright scary.

Aftermarket Wheels

In its most basic sense, installing a set of aftermarket wheels is no more difficult than remounting the stock rims after a tire change or brake disc swap--except for the extra money and massive street cred. Seriously, though, mounting up a set of forged magnesium wheels gets you more than a big credit card bill. Adding lighter wheels can, arguably, deliver the most bang for the buck of any motorcycle modification.

Suspension

Today, the average street rider has suspension technology and adjustments that were only available to the factory racers a mere five years ago. This is a mixed blessing.

Setting Sag

Proper sag is important because a suspension unit needs a certain amount of room within its travel to work properly. If you have too little sag, your bike will be prone to topping out the suspension as it extends to its limit. Similarly, too little sag could allow you to exper-ience the unpleasant jolt of bottoming out. Your bike's sag is broken into two categories: "static sag," the distance your bike compresses its suspension from fully extended when you climb on board; and "free sag," the distance your bike settles from full extension under its own weight.

Setting Damping

Begin by setting your bike's damping adjusters to the factory specified positions (listed in your owner's manual). They probably won't stay there, but the settings should get you in the general area. Damping adjusters measure their settings in one of two ways: clicks or turns. If your bike uses clicks, turn the adjuster all the way in (clockwise) and unscrew the adjuster the correct number of clicks. For turns, do the same thing but count the turns instead of clicks.

Answer 6

judging by your name, you are an indian so it's a small capacity bike. Are you prepping for speedrun 2007? you can try reducing weight by removing excess panels, headlight, fueltank etc. if it's a pulsar or a karizma, replace your filter with a KN RC-1060 available at http://www.planetdsg.com.

Answer 7

Twist the throttle

Answer 8

put on a nitrous,twist the throttle and go to top gear

Answer 9

rise accelator