Is it veneered or solid? You have to be careful if it is veneered as leaving a gel stripper on too long could penetrate the veneer and cause grief with the veneer glue causing bubbling and lifting. In all probability it Will be a Pu type lacquer which either has the stain mixed with it or it is clear coat over a stained wood.
I would be inclined to use a caustic stripper and carefully do it in small sections minimising the surface reaction time. This is quite quick, minutes on a thin finish. Use a scotch pad to work the surface and neutralise well afterwards. When the lacquer is removed sand back using 120 grit and finer. Do not go too hard with progressive sandings especially at the edges.
In the UK we have Nitromors and their site is worth a read.
Good luck with your project
DWD
2007-01-29 05:42:43
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answer #1
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answered by Dewaltdisney 2
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I personally would avoid the gel style stripping agents. They take too long to work, and I have only had minimal success with them.
I was able to re finish a very old desk with terribly thick varnish with a product called Dad's Easy Strip. You can find this product at Walmart, and most hardware stores. (metal can with blue and yellow label) I can tell you that this product is very caustic, so take proper precautions (eye protection, gloves) when using this, however it is definitely the best stuff I have ever used when refinishing furniture.
If you use the gel expect to spend a couple of days stripping the varnish, however with the Dad's easy strip, a couple of hours should do the job.
2007-01-30 02:37:48
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answer #2
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answered by amsmithatc 3
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Try a product by Savogran, it's called "Strypeze" works well and is a paste so it will cling to your vertical pieces like the legs. This might take a couple times to remove the varnish &urathane, your lucky your choosing a cherry finish because by going with a darker finish I don't think you'll have to sand every bit of stain out of it. Once stripped use a good palm sander and start off with a 100 grit paper and finish with 150 grit then stain it your cherry. I've found that minwax stain is the worst product to use, they now skimp on their pigment so I've found ZAR stains and products to be the best. Once you've gotten your stain to some what match your hutch then start with the poly urethane at least 3 light coats and sand with 220 grit paper in between coats followed by using a tack cloth also to remove dust from each sanding, for the best table top I recommend 5 coats of urethane, Good luck Les the painter P.S those citrus based strippers will take forever and go to a real paint store for good results
2016-03-15 01:48:47
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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a week or so. Procedures are time consuming from applying the stripping gel and waiting for it to attack the paint (half hour to couple hours and maybe repeat twice to get all the paint/varnish off), then wash off the stripper. Let table dry. Sanding it smooth, sanding out scratches and remaining paint/varnish you didn't completely wash off, maybe you will be staining, which is a procedure that needs at least1 day to apply and overnight to dry and application of clear coats allowing a day between coats....so a number of coats takes a few days. That's why it is a hobby/craft and why they charge to much for refinished pieces.
2007-01-29 12:52:28
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answer #4
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answered by ButwhatdoIno? 6
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That is a naughty question. You want to strip and put on gel chippendale style? That is rated X.
2007-01-29 04:44:41
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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You could probably figure on a day at least. If you have several coats of finish, it may take longer than that. The size of the table will also figure into the time.
2007-01-29 05:30:59
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answer #6
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answered by bugear001 6
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