While I won't get into the reasons why, I ended up drywalling my walls in a small sitting room in my basement before doing the ceiling. The walls have since been painted. What are my options for installing drywall in the ceiling and what types of roadblocks may I encounter when doing so?
2007-01-28 11:47:16 · 13 answers · asked by Scott 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
If you remembered to drop the wallboard down 5/8", all you have to do is slide it over it. If you did not, I would recommend cutting it so you can. I like to let the edges float so the corner seams don't crack later.
You could also consider a suspended or dropped ceiling which is installed after the walls are up. Just run J channel around the walls and suspend the grid. Then drop in panels.
2007-01-28 11:50:33 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋
1
2017-01-22 15:56:02 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
With no offense, OOPS.
In any case it isn't a capital offense crime.
After installing thousands of sq. ft. of drywall I offer that the process will be much the same as if the walls were still just studs.
Certainly a helper or two would be nice, but the job can be tackled by a single, with some effort. If you have two like sized step ladders they can help. You can make braces from 2 x 4's to hold up a sheet, once you manage to get it up. The braces can also be used to "boost": the sheet to the ceiling then wedge/hold it in place.
Once screwed to the rafters/ joists all you need do is tape, mud, sand, and eventually paint. If you happen to NEED it white you can mask off your walls at the meeting points. I've also applied thousands of gallons of paint and have a suggestion.
Assume your walls are a color. It is a trick of the eye perhaps, but glaringly noticeable to anyone if the painter didn't have a steady hand, and happened to get color up onto the ceiling. The better process for a DIY especially, is to cut the ceiling down onto the walls, and then paint the wall color to within 1/16th inch of the ceiling in a masked, straight line. Odd how it works, but it does.
Steven Wolf
2007-01-28 12:23:27 · answer #3 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Did you leave a half inch space at the top of the walls so that the ceiling board can sit on it? If so good . If not it depends alot on the spacing of the ceiling joists. 24" span or greater you may want to put in 2x2or 2x4 spacers nailed inbetween the rafters. This is so because you can fasten the drywall to the rafters, but what do you do about the space in between which is most noticable at the wall/ceiling corner. By adding that spacer you have a spot to screw to. ((That is why the ceiling is put up first and the walls jammed up to the ceiling-to hold up the drywall. You want so that you don't see any flex when you push on it on the edges. If it don't move you did good. Do screw the ceiling. Alot. That is what mud is for.
2007-01-28 12:14:03 · answer #4 · answered by ButwhatdoIno? 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
How To Drywall Ceiling
2016-09-29 12:01:48 · answer #5 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Wall studs in a new home are 16" on center. Studs in an older home were arbitrary. Since the studs in 1900 were a full 2" by 4" and made with Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine which was more abundant and harder than the new whitewoods, in less expensive homes the spacing was as much as 24" apart. But in the more expensive homes the spacing could be as close as 12". It all depended on how much you were willing to spend. To find the studs in a wet plaster wall you need to buy the more expensive stud finder that penetrates deeper. Metal lathe can really complicate things too. I've had to go as far as driving a finish nail in every 1" till I ran across it.
2016-03-15 01:31:50 · answer #6 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The people suggesting nailers are right, but I keep thinking there may be a problem with the ceiling beams being higher than the nailer if you don't attach right. If you didn't leave yourself any space at the top on the walls, that is going to be tricky. If your nailer sits lower than the beams, then you will have to put nailers on all of the beams to offset. You can always cross connect them between the ceiling beams, 4 on the 8' side and 3 for the 4' side. ***Crown molding is a great way to cover gaps***. YES, USE SCREWS!! LOTS OF THEM!
2007-01-28 13:36:12 · answer #7 · answered by mamacatto2 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Is there any chance you can put in a tile ceiling that drops down a tad?.. If you have pipes and such running through that ceiling, I don't think it is a good idea to cover them up.. You might need to tear it out to fix something down the road..
A tiles ceiling, you only have to remove the tiles to get to any area that needs to be fixed.. They call it a drop ceiling if you would like to check prices out at home depo or lowes.. That way, no putty, no painting and no hassle and no taping..
Good luck..
2007-01-28 11:58:27 · answer #8 · answered by tiny b 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Best to just install suspended ceiling in basements. You should never cover over electrical junction boxes or plumbing joints with sheetrock. You never know when you may need acsess to them.
2007-01-28 11:57:27 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
First off, add some "dead-wood" or nailing surface around the perimeter of your room to screw the edges of your ceiling sheets off to. Depending upon the thickness of your celing DW, straight edge your walls or chalk a line (3/4" or respective to your thickness) and trim your installed sheets at that height. Then slide your sheets in, screw them off, and tape and mud the seams.
2007-01-28 12:00:11 · answer #10 · answered by Dee V Dub 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋