RR, LR, RF, LF. The farthest to the closest.
Check these out,,makes bleeding barkes easy, 1 man job
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/brake_tools.html#powerbleeders
2007-01-28 09:30:16
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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Add fluid to the master cylinder and let it sit for an hour or so. Go to the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and open the bleeder screw. Have your assistant press slowly down on the pedal until it reaches the floor. Tighten the bleeder screw and have your assistant slowly release the pedal until its back up at the top of its travel. Repeat on same wheel until you get fluid from the bleeder. Now repeat process on next furthest wheel and so on until all wheels are getting fluid. DO NOT LET THE MASTER'S FLUID GET LOW! keep checking it and adding as necessary. Once you have drawn fluid from each wheel, start over. This time though your assistant pumps the brake pedal until its good and stiff. While the pedals being held open the bleeder screws on each wheel in the same order you did before. Work one wheel at a time until you get no more air, just a solid stream of fluid. Don't forget to keep checking your fluid level and good luck!
2007-01-28 17:42:11
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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Get yourself a one man bleed kit first. Then follow the order given here BUT pump the reservoir ALMOST empty then top it up.
Pump fluid out until it is the colour going in - keep checking the master cylinder reservoir to ensure it does not run dry - it tends to discolour with age and contamination. Do this to each wheel in turn.
Then the fluid should not boil in the brake cylinders due to water contamination.
RoyS
2007-01-29 12:53:23
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answer #3
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answered by Roy S 5
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Although some are right here,,I suggest to start first to take the MC cap off,so it won't get a suction ,and do the farthest one which is the RR,then LR,Then RF,then LF,,and when who ever pumps the peddle just tell him to always listen to you,,when to close the bleeder screw, before he allows the peddle back up,,thats when to tighten screw,,other wise,,if not done right you will still have air bubbles in the line...
2007-01-28 17:41:49
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answer #4
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answered by yachtguy2 2
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start with the front, theres a bleding screw on the calapa, attach a bleeding kit to it.
pump the brake long slow pumps until there is not bubbles in it and keep topping up the resevoir by watching it.
when there are no bubbles in the pipe make sure the break is fully to the floor. tight up the bleeding screw then repeat to the other breaks.
its pretty easy to do but has to be two of you, onbe to pump the breaks whils one watches for bubbles and tops up.
if you dont know what a bleeding kit is, i strongly suggest you get someone who does know what they are doing.
2007-01-28 17:34:43
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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always start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer, making sure that you keep an eye on the reservoir level too, topping up with dot 3/4 brake fluid
Slow full length strokes and best to do it without servo assistance( I think so, and its worked for me for 25yrs+)
2007-01-28 18:52:27
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answer #6
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answered by gsf1200 5
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Now let me get this right. You don't know how to bleed the brakes on your car, but you are going to ask the people on Yahoo Answers how to do it?
I hope you don't live on a hill.....
2007-01-28 17:31:30
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answer #7
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answered by Not Ecky Boy 6
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You start with the brake farthest away from the master cylinder and work towards it.
2007-01-28 17:31:07
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answer #8
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answered by Matthew L 4
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When you get finished, you will need somebody to test drive it. I'll send my ex-wife over. (I really hope you're a bad brake bleeder.) Glad to help.
2007-01-28 17:34:15
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answer #9
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answered by johN p. aka-Hey you. 7
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Start at the furthest wheel from your master cynlinder. Which is your Right Rear then Left Rear, Right Front, then finally Left Front.
2007-01-28 17:30:39
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answer #10
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answered by nicewknd 5
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