how do i cut a hole in a cast iron soil pipe to fit a toilet waste?

Answer 1

What you can do is to draw the size of the hole you nee, then drill a seried of small holes all around the circumference. Then carefully tap the hole out wit a small hammer and try to stop any lumps of metal falling into the pipe. Fit the waste into the pipe and seal around with putty or similar. There is another way to do this, but it would mean dismantiling the soil pipe to do it.

Answer 2

The CORRECT way to do this is by cutting a section out of the pipe with a set of cast crackers, the tool made for this, and using two ferncos and a sanitee (if on vertical stack) or wye ( if on a horozontal waste line) You should be able to locate the tool at a tool rental store locally. You cut the pipe above and below where you want to insert the new piece. Put your tee or wye together with pieces of pipe glued in each end, large enough to leave only about 1/4" between the old material to the new. Slip the ferncos onto the old pipe and place in your new piece. Pull the ferncos over the cut so it is in the middle of the fernco. turn the fitting to the right direction with fall and crank the band clamps down tight. If you just cut a hole in a pipe and stick another in It will not direct the waste correctly and may cause problems to other fixtures that are using the same line. Fittings are made to direct flow according to a gravity drain principal. This is why you shouldnt use a sanitee on a horizontal plane, etc. You also need to make sure that the new toilet is vented or it will not work properly. If you are cutting into a vertical stack, you will most likely be ok, unless the stack is a vent for something else. If it is you are better running a new line to prevent both bathrooms form working improperly. If you are cutting in to a horizontal waste line you will need to run a vent out and tie it into an exsisting vent in your attic,(called a revent) run it out through the roof, or install a studor vent in a box in the wall, under a lavatory connected ot the same line, or your attic. The point of vent( where the vent meets the soil line) should be no more than 8' away from the bend of the riser to the toilet. Your vent also needs to be washed by water/waste at the base of it. Otherwise run the vent at no more than a 45 deg. angle upwards off the soil line. If you run it to the side and then turn it up it has the chance of becoming blocked if you have a stoppage, or if the volume of the waste pushes debris up into the vent pipe. this is called a dry vent. You should really do this the right way. Not only because it will save you the repairs if it doesnt run right, but if you plan on selling your house and this is found by a prospective buyer or their inspector, you will bear the cost of having it re done the way it should have been in the first place. And also if the city/ county catches you doing this, they will make you rip it out and do it according to code, and maybe fine you in the process. If its done the way its described, it will be to code. It can be quite costly to rip it all out and do it again. Think wisely here. a few bucks now could save you hundreds or thousands later!

Answer 3

Cutting Cast Iron Soil Pipe

Answer 4

Cast Iron Waste Pipe

Answer 5

Here is how to do it according to the CODE in all cities I have worked in.

Get a keyhole saw the right diameter for the hole and use a hand drill on it. Get it large enough, about 1/4 inch larger than the pipe you are running.

Then at Lowes or Plumbers Supply, they sell a collar with a rubber gasket. Looks like a big double "u" bolt muffler clamp or sort. It has like 2 of these "U" clamps on it and to attach it to the cast iron pipe and a rubber gasket to seal it onto there. You can buy a 1 1/2 in NPT or a 1 1/2 plastic female, or any size desireable to suit your needs of which you connect your new run, That is either with PVC solvent or threaded pipe. Your choice on that.

That is according to code and is a proper connection.

Answer 6

Cast iron and plastic have expansion coefficients which are quite different and this will cause the separation you have mentioned. The jointing medium should cater for this but it is possible that you have used the wrong type (or wrongly applied it) and it is not elastic enough to take the strain. Clean off the existing 'jointing' and start again using a more suitable product... a proprietary grommet or possibly a W.T. mastic. If the gap between the plastic pipe and the c/iron connection is more than an eighth of an inch apply jointing material with several successive applications, allowing each to thoroughly cure before applying the next coating.

Answer 7

replace the hole pipe with a plastic one if you mean the vertical soil pipe up the side of your house , or if the pipe is in the ground then dig a hole around it and build a manhole (obviously putting your new toilet waste pipe in it) then remove a section of the cast pipe with a grinder .

Answer 8

For this you may need a plumber, he will remove a section of the soil pipe and replace it with a sanitary tee. You can attempt this if it is in a horizontal run using a chain cutter to bust the pipe out, but if it's in the stack, things can go south quick!

Answer 9

Easy! I have done this many times, An angle grinder will work but is time consuming and quite difficult to get good results ,A tungsten carbide tipped hole saw will do the job with ease, but be careful not to let it overheat as it will go blunt and won't cut, (any signs of smoke and there is a pretty good chance its getting to hot). A diamond hole saw will also do the job, the type used for tiles/ceramics etc, I also use these for drilling tap holes in baths with excellent results, again don't get it too hot. Good luck.

Answer 10

I suspect that it would be cheaper, if you take your time into the equation, and certainly easier and more practical to change the soil pipe. It will need replacing at some stage anyway, so maybe now is as good a time as any.