I have a 41/2month old green iguana ,what would be the appropriate size cage?

Answer 1

If you plan on keeping it, get a 50 gallon tank to start because you will end up going from 10 to 25 to 50 in no time, so why waste the money on the smaller tanks? For that matter, size up a 75 gallon tank while you're at it. If you can't fit one in your house, then you'll know when to beg a pet shop to take your iguana when he ougrows the 50 gallon tank. Yes, a tank with a screen cover is the right thing because you need to maintain the right temperature, impossible to do in a cage...And then you put things to climb on in the tank.

Answer 2

Don't put an iguana in a tank. Period.

You want a screen or wire cage, with fine mesh that the lizard cannot escape from. Not even a baby should ever be in a tank, it's just not a suitable cage for an arboreal (climbing) lizard.

For a baby under 1 foot in total length, the cage size should be 3 feet long x 1.5 feet wide x 2 feet tall. As a full grown adult, he'll need a cage roughly 6 feet in length, 3-4 feet in height, and 3-4 feet deep.

Most owners cage iguanas very poorly, ie by using aquariums or too small cages, and it's completely cruel. He should have plenty of room to turn, climb, and move comfortably at all times, as well as plenty of space to move from warm to cool areas of his cage.

Answer 3

I second what everyone is saying regarding the cage. Please don't put the iguana in a tank. It's not fair to the iguana.

Read up, there is a lot of info on iguanas and:

Terrarium and Cage Construction and Design

Has awesome inexpensive do it yourself ideas on how to build a suitable cage...and tells you about the creatures than go in it along with lighting and temperature and food requirements for that critter.

Answer 4

Think ahead. That little guy is going to grow like a weed.

Size:
Age............... head to vent…..total length
Just hatched……...2 in ………….6-8 in
3 months……...….4 in…………..12 in
6 months…………6 in…………..18 in
1 year…………….8 in…………..24 in
18 months…….…10 in…………..30 in
2 years…………..12 in…………..36 in
3 years……….….16 in…………..45 in
4 years……….….18 in…………..54 in
5 years…………..20 in…………..60 in
6 years…………..22 in…………..66 in
7 years…….up to 24 in….....up to 72 in

Housing:
Where x is the length of the iguana, housing should be x tall, x deep and 1.5 x long. Iguanas are arboreal and need to have something to climb on. A bathing area is also desirable. Iguanas instinctually poop in water and they are likely to consistently use the bathing are to do so.

Diet:
Iguanas are herbivores; they do not eat animal protein of any kind. Commercially available Iguana food is not suitable for use as it usually contains animal protein. An Iguana's primary diet should include collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole, green beans, parsnip, winter squash, alfalfa, strawberries, mangos, figs, cantaloupe and a calcium supplement. The greens should make up the majority of the diet.
The Iguana should be feed early every morning. Additional feedings may be made later if the iguana eats them. Water should be provided, preferably in a dish too small for the iguanas to immerse themselves in.

Heat:
Iguanas need a basking area, normally at the top of the climbing area that has a temperature of 95F. The lower areas of the cages should be cooler as a lizard regulates his body temperature by moving to warmer or cooler areas. The lowest temperature, nighttime, should not be less than 75F. Nighttime heat can be provided using ceramic heaters or night bulbs. Never use heat rocks with Iguanas as they can cause burning.

Light:
Iguanas live in equatorial areas. They should have 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark. They also require high quality UVB lights (such as reptisun 10) to facilitate vitamin D production to allow calcium absorption. Vitamin D drop are not a suitable replacement due to problems with dosing and lack of evidence on their effectiveness. Daily trips outside, in a suitable enclosure, are desirable when temperature permits.

Handling:
Iguanas must be handled daily to socializing them. As they can inflict injury with their tails, teeth, and claws the purchase of protective gear for the forearms is often considered (my son uses a leather jacket and gloves). They are not domesticated animals so this behavior is instinctual on the Iguana's part. The daily handling is to show them that you are a friend rather than a threat. Never punish an iguana, but at the same time do not let them win. If the Iguana learns that tail thrashing will cause you to put them down, they will always tail thrash when you try to pick them up.

Health:
Iguanas require reptile vets. Regular vets do not have the training needed to understand what is happening in an Iguana, or any other reptile. You can find a list of reptile vets in the US at http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html.

Lifespan:
In captivity Iguanas given proper care can be expected to live 20 years.



Please be sure to visit anapsid.org. It is the website of Melissa Kaplan, author of Iguanas for Dummies.

Answer 5

Building a cage is the most economical way to go. get a 4 X 8 sheet of three quarter inch plywood and cut it into 4 panels 2 X 4 . then cut one of these in half. these pieces will assemble a cage 4 feet by 2 feet by 2. the open side becomes the front and you install a sliding window onto it. the beauty of this design is being wood you can screw branches onto the inside for climbing and drill air holes for ventilation . this is a good size cage for a long time. when he outgrows it i'm sure you'll have an idea on how to build one bigger

Answer 6

if u plan on keepin it a while go ahead and get a big one for him cause he will grow and and u dont want to look at him in a small cage every day wouldya?????????how would u like to live in a bathroom all your life???????think about it!!!