the pour? planning on erecting a metal building but i would rather pour the slab first and figure out the placement of the load bearing verticals later for numerous reasons i wont go into here. (for specification im referring of course to long term strength in 3-5000 psi concrete fully cured, unified slab, with the footer below anchor pads 12" deep. vs long term strength of the good quality 2-part porcelain epoxy with the bolt driven as deep as allowed.)
2007-01-23 11:12:53 · 7 answers · asked by metroactus 4 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
Using bolts secured by expoxy, you can achieve a strength of 31,000 lbs under tension, or 16,000 lbs of shear force, with a 1.25" diameter bolt installed 18.75" deep in concrete, using Simpson Company's AT (acrylic) expoxy.
Lower tension and shear force loads can be achieved with smaller diameter bolts, installed in shorter holes.
These are comparable to loads sustained by their SSTB embedded foundation bolts.
Check out the latest Wood Connector Catalog issued by the Simpson Strong-Tie Company. The above values were found in their 2006 catalog, pp 29-32 and 33-34.
2007-01-23 18:25:49 · answer #1 · answered by Tom-SJ 6 · 2⤊ 0⤋
That type of a bolt drilled and epoxied is considered a Friction Hold Bold. Not a good idea. And no where I know of according to any good engineering design or State and Local Code. You need a 90 degree bend embedded in the concrete. For example. a 2 story building with vertical columns 20 feet on center on average will take a 20 inch by 20 inch pad, the anchor bolds for that would be 2 required 3/4 inch dia . x 12 inch in the concrete embedded and a 3 inch 90 degree lock bend. Thats an example of course. Furthermore, exterior columns on a building in a climate such as northern Wisconsin need to be 40 inch below grade line to prevent frost heave.
Dont short the footing!!!!!
2007-01-23 12:57:33 · answer #2 · answered by James M 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you have to get a permit, then ask the powers that be. If code allowed, I would do both. I would just set the four exterior corner anchors in the concrete. Once you get these located you could attach the frame and start building. Since I have no idea how big of a building you are raising, I am assuming that you're not worried it will blow away! If this is not your own building then do it as the manufacturer suggests--otherwise it may end up being your building!
2007-01-27 10:29:05 · answer #3 · answered by Daniel K 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The best is anchor bolts set in before the pour, however if you are no sure of the exact placement you can resort to resin anchor bolts. They come in sets of 6 or dozen depending on size. Included in the pack are studs of required size and chemical in glass tube. You drill the hole bigger than tube diameter, insert in the tube, fix the stud to the drill chuck, break the glass, push in the stud and start to drill until the drill could not turn anymore. This shows that the chemical has set. Look for the brand "SIKA".
2007-01-23 13:02:46 · answer #4 · answered by Zack J 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It depends on the size and weight of the building. It is more common to install footers with anchor bolts in place, then pour the floor slab around the footers.
If you are putting up a storage shed, like 10 x 14 x 8, anchor bolts, installed after a slab is poured, will work.
2007-01-23 11:21:00 · answer #5 · answered by regerugged 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It would be a good idea to check your local building code. If the building code will allow then go with what best suits your application. It is always better to go with anchors set before the pour but if you are not sure of the location that is the purpose of the drill in anchors. as long as the code will allow...
2007-01-23 15:51:37 · answer #6 · answered by rayallen47567 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
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2016-03-14 22:52:50 · answer #7 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
the slab has to be all most dead center the ancer dose not mater with the new tec
2007-01-23 11:23:26 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋