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It seems to fail/stall only when it is hot but will re-start when allowed to rest. The pump relay module has been changed too. I wonder if there is a tropicalised version of these parts. My last fuel pump didn't even last one year. I wonder if I am also getting imitation BOSCH parts. The Mercedes outlet says it is genuine BOSCH. Is there a built-in heater in the pump for freezing weather say in Europe? or are the models different for other parts of the world?

2007-01-21 18:35:54 · 2 answers · asked by LITO V. B. 1 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

2 answers

I don't know if bosch makes a hot weather version of the fuel pump, but I do own a '91 190E 2.3L which I have spent the last year fixing various issues with it. The 190E are notorious for various stalling issues at all temps. I am sure that your problem lies away from the fuel pump and with one of the many switches/sensors/relay etc. The 190E comes with a continuous fuel injection system ran off an analog based ECU. Basically that means some switches can cause catastrophic changes in the way the engine runs. Trust me, the throttle position switch went out on my car and caused it to idle at 3200rpm. Anyways, here are a few places to look:

Solder joints inside the fuel pump relay can be pretty bad too, even straight out of the factory, try opening the FPR and checking the solder joints. If when the car stalls, turn the key immediately to "ON", and you don't hear the fuel pump going, I'd put my money on the FPR.

If your ABS light comes on, or the ABS functions abnormally, your stalling problem may be with the OVP (over-voltage protection relay). Make sure the ABS light bulb is good and check the fuse on top of the OVP. The OVP is located next to the fuel pump relay and the AC relay, behind the battery. If I remember right your AC won’t work either.

If you have cruise control, and it doesn't work, your problem may lie with the hall effect sensor, AKA, speedometer transmitter. Usually this will cause stalling when at idle at all temps, but its not a bad idea to look into.

Old ignition wires can also cause similar problems. The spark plug wires are ran over the valve cover where they can collect heat. If these wire get too hot they sometimes will cause the car to stumble or misfire.

The Idle Control Valve can cause all kinds of idling and stalling problems. Try cleaning it out with carb cleaner.

The MAS sensor will cause low idle and stalling too.

My last guess would be cold start components. Any of them could be stuck open flooding the engine with gas though I am sure this would cause poor emissions, and failed smog test along with the check engine light. This includes the Cold Start Valve, and the EHA. You might try unplugging these (one at a time) after stalling to see if it makes any difference.

Hope that helps

2007-01-21 23:05:37 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous 3 · 0 0

Its placed in front of the passenger door in the back of the plastic molding. in case you like a clean on the section # is F5AZ-9341-A thats the oem # from ford. All so attempt and see if there is gasoline interior the gasoline rail. Crank the motor and have a pal push on the valve. It sounds like a valve stem.

2016-11-26 01:33:22 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

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