You need a special tool called a cylinder hone. It is available in different sizes at any store that sells automotive tools. It attaches to any standard drill.
First you have to remove all the brake components, but leave the cylinder attached to the backing plate. Remove the dust boots from the cylinder. Then simply push the 2 metal and two rubber "pucks" out with your finger. There will be a spring between them that will also pop out. Then you need to smooth out the inside of the cylinder. The hone will have three, spring loaded heads on it. You pinch the heads together and slide the stones into the cylinder. It needs lubrication, and I always used brake fluid. If there is not enough seeping into the the cylinder through the brake line (which is still attached for this purpose), then add a little to keep things slick. Then you spin the stone with the drill. Not too fast. As it is spinning you push in and out along the whole inside of the bore evenly DO NOT let the stones push all the way through and out the other side of the cylinder. This may cause the tool to break, score the inside of the cylinder, and even possibly harm you. When the lip of rust is removed from the inside and the bore appears smooth and even, rinse out with spray brake cleaner. When clean and dry, apply clean fluid to the bore and to the new pucks. Insert the spring, then slide the rubber pucks into opposing sides of the cylinder. Note they go in concave side first. Use caution not to damage them. Put in the metal pucks. If you have trouble, open the bleeder screw and pinch all 4 into the bore. Close the bleeder while holding the pucks in. This will create a small vacuum that helps to hold them in, even against the pressure of the spring. Then put the dust boots on. Reassemble the brakes applying a small amount of approved lubricant to the threads of the adjuster and to the contact points on the backing plate. Once complete, adjust and bleed.
Wheel cylinders have come down in price dramatically over the years. It used to be cost efficient to rebuild cylinders. But now, especially when you add the cost of your added labor and tools, you are probably better off just putting in a new one. But, here is the procedure anyway.
2007-01-21 03:31:04
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answer #1
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answered by kfhaggerty 5
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The kit generally has a spring, two cups and the boots for the outside. The inside of the cylinder will be corroded in the area where the pistons and cups do not run and will have to be polished. The pistons may be corroded beyond use and have to be replaced.
The only tool you need to purchase or get as a loaner in a brake cylinder hone. It hooks onto an electric drill to polish out the inside of the cylinder.
Note carefully how it came apart and put it back together with a little brake fluid on the parts.
2007-01-21 05:44:22
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answer #2
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answered by eferrell01 7
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Its not very hard to do.The easiest way is to replace the cylinder,they run about $20.00 dollars at a auto parts store.Or you can buy a kit for the cylinder,that will take much more time to install.Make sure to buy brake fluid as you will need to bleed the brakes after you are done And remember while bleeding brakes you all ways start with the closest wheel to the master cylinder,I hope this helps you,and good luck
2016-05-24 05:12:26
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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One thing to be careful of: Whether using sandpaper or a cylinder hone, if there are ANY significant pits in the bore due to corrosion, your cylinder will leak when you get it back together. Small pits make small (maybe OK) leaks, larger ones make larger (not OK) leaks and will often abrade the seals as they move back and forth over the edges of the pits, creating larger leaks as time goes on. If you try to hone the pits out completely, you risk cutting the bore oversize and then the kit seals won't really fit very well, leading (again) to leaks. New cylinders are the way to go if you see pitting in the bore.
2007-01-21 03:53:16
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answer #4
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answered by stever_sl 2
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first, check the bleeder screw on the back to make sure it opens. if it's broken or frozen, you have to replace the cylinder.
1 remove brake shoes
2 remove rubber boots off wheel cylinder
3 push everything in wheel cylinder out one end and see how it comes out. push in left end and it comes out the right end. push slowly as you want to see the order to reinstall.
4 clean the bore, hone if necessary
5 install new kit in the same order the old one came out. cup, spring, cup. put boots on the end. install brake shoes and drum.
6 bleed the cylinder. if the brake mastercylinder was not run dry, you will only have to bleed the one wheel.
2007-01-21 03:17:04
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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Wheel Cylinder - Left Front
UP
37025 $16.49
Wheel Cylinder Kit - Front
UP
36 $3.69
whatever your labor is worth and your budget, i would just go with the cylinder and you probably get a warranty.
2007-01-21 04:07:16
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answer #6
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answered by buddy leight 3
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purchase a repair kit, remove brake shoes, open wheel cyl,hone cyl. or use a piece of 400 sandpaper to remove any burrs from cyl. install kit. reinstall shoes fill master cyl with fluid and bleed system.
2007-01-21 03:15:19
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answer #7
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answered by DASH 5
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You probably don't have the right tools if on YA asking HOW to do it.
2007-01-21 03:19:49
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answer #8
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answered by Mr. KnowItAll 7
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