1989 s10 help?

Question

I have an 89 s10 with a 2.5 an a 5 speed trans. im not getting fuel through my fuel injector. I have replaced the injector, spark plugs, plug wires, hall effect switch, distributor cap, distributor button, starter, fuel filter, fuel pump and I have blue spark. I have sufficient fuel pressure. Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you. I have poured fuel and starting fluid into the tbi and it will start for a few seconds but then dies. I tried going through the ALDL to get the trouble codes stored by the ecm but am not getting even a code 12...

Well...the injector I put in it was from another vehicle and was not guaranteed to work....so.... I bought a brand new injector and will be putting it in this evening....if this does not fix it then I will put a V-8 in it.

Yes, I have checked the crank sensor it is the same thing as the Hall Effect Switch on this model. I did put the new injector in it last night and the injector itself worked but the truck will still only stay running for about 10-15 seconds at the most .

Answer 1

You need to hook a noid light to the injector, and see if it is getting a signal. If not, remove the harness from the computer, and back probe the wiring for continuity to the computer. If you have a reading on the meter at the computer, then you need to probe back to the hall effect switch for a signal voltage. If all of this checks out, replace the computer. If it does not, then you will find the problem in the wiring when you do the back probe. Before you go replacing the computer, you want to make sure you have volatge, and a good ground to the computer. You also want to make sure you have a good battery, and that all the cables are clean, and making good connections. Look also for a broken ground strap that goes from the engine to the body, and another that goes from the battery to the body/frame.
You could have a blown ECM fuse, so you want to check this with a meter, as in on the power side, as well as the fused side to insure you haven't lost power to the fuse block. Do this: Get a can of Carb/choke cleaner from a parts store. Spray it in the intake/throat of the throttle body for 3-4 seconds. Now see if the engine starts. "Don't spray" while trying to start it, as it can backfire and burn you good. If the engine starts then you can rule out a lot of things. If it does start for a second or two, and will keep doing it as long as you keep adding the spray, you can be 100% sure it is a fuel problem. I have seen this same thing with a bad fuel pressure regulator.
glad to help you, good Luck!!!
Part 2:
Have you checked the ignition control module? It is located in the distributor under the rotor button. It should have two screw holding it in place, and have 4 wires going to it. Be extra careful when pulling the wires off it, as they will break easily. Use a pair of needle nose plires to take them off before you remove the mounting screws. You can pry them off without harming them. Take it to Auto Zone and have them check it, and I think you will find it is bad. When you put in a new one, you must use a heat sink paste that you smear on the surface that contacts the distributor. It is called silicon heat sink lube, and it may come with the new one. Some do and some don't. Before you remove the wires, make a note of where they go as to not get them back in the wrong place.
If this is not the problem, you will need to run a compression test on the engine, and suspect it may have a bad timing belt. You must have three things to make an engine run. 1-compression, 2-fuel, 3-fire. If it will run for a few minutes and stop, does it run again when you spray it? If it does, then you are not having a fire problem. If you do a noid light test on the injectors, and they show fire, then you are loosing fuel pressure from a bad hose, broke line, hole in line, bad pressure regulator, plugged return line to tank, loosing power to the fuel pump, as in the regulator will be bad and cause it to shut down the pump prematurly. Do you have a vacuum hose going to the pressure regulator? Is it off, broke, split where it plugs on, collapsing due to being old and worn out? Keep diging, and you will come up with the problem. On the drivers side of the vehicle, around and/or behind the brake vacuum booster you will find a red wire that goes to no where. This is a fuel pump test wire. Hook power to it and over ride the regulator. This will make the pump work, and you should hear it running. Now, will the engine start? If you don't hear it running then the pump is bad. If you do hear it running then the pump is good and suspect the regulator as the culprit. If you do all of this and it still does the same thing, then you have a bad computer.
Good luck!!!

Answer 2

You sure have replaced a lot of parts. Take the air cleaner off, if you haven't already done so, and look at the wires running to the injectors. There should be one red and the other green. They might be a different color. No matter. See if these wires are chrimped or broken or unplugged. There should a rubber grommet that holds them in place. If they are not broke or chrimped. You need to replace the PCM or the injector wiring harness. If you can't check the PCM yourself, have a mechanic check it.
But all the money you've spent so far, it would have been cheaper to take it to a good repair shop. At least when you get it fixed it will run for a long time.
You might check the TPS( Throttle position sensor) and MAP sensor while you're at it. That is about the only things you haven't replaced.
Did you replace the fuel pump in the tank with a used one? Mine did the same thing and it was the fuel pump. Your fuel filter might be plugged again.

Answer 3

No, the transmission will not work on the 350sbc. The only transmission that would bolt up from an s10 would be one that came off of a 4.3l v6 as they share the same transmission bolt pattern. There is alot more to the swap than simply throwing the engine in and bolting it up. None of the accessories for the 4cyl will likely work for the 350. You will also need a new radiator. New motor mounts, transmission, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild the front end or put stiffer springs in. Factory throttle cable will not work, the kickdown cable(if automatic) will not work. The driveshaft may not be long or short enough to accomodate the new trans. Factory exhaust will not work. You cannot use the factory fuel pump from the 4cyl. Make sure you have a second car you can drive in the meantime and know someone who can help you because it will likely take a while to do the swap properly and get all the bugs worked out.

Answer 4

Check the knock sensor, if there was even a hint of a knock in your engine this booger shuts off the juice. It screws into the side of the block and has a single wire connector that resembles a redundant oil pressure connector.
I don't remember how to diagnose a bad one, but they are cheap so you could save alot of trouble and just slap one on, just 'cause.
(Just cause they malfunction for NO apparent reason:!)
Also, check injector wires with a "noid light", available for $5 or less at parts store.

Answer 5

Theres only 1 more thing you can replace... the fuel injector wiring harness.

Answer 6

Take a thin wire run it throw the fuel
line see if that helps

Answer 7

Went through this with an 87 model. Change the coolant temperature sensor. its located in the housing with the thermostat. cost about $7.00 at the discount store. The computer system cant tell you its bad, because it has nothing to compare it to.

Answer 8

Sounds to me your fuel sensors are out.
Plain and simple answer sorry but straight to the point.
Its a common problem with mixing different octane fuels.

Answer 9

not to rag on you but in all this replacing parts did you ever check to see if your injector is even getting power ????
is the pcm getting a signal ???
if your trying to fix this by just replacing part after part it my be cheeper in the long run to take it to a shop

Answer 10

It could be a wiring problem or the computer could have a problem. What about the crank sensor did you check it.