Experience Tile layer????

Question

I have a formica kitchen counter and would like to tile it. I saw on one episode of DIY that I could score the counter and lay thin-set and then lay the tile. I need someone expertise who have done this before. I am trying to save money by doing it this way instead of buying a slab of granite. All answers are greatly appreciated.

Answer 1

here is how we do it scuff up the Formica and get some tile mastic the good brand i don't know where you are just get the most expensive one all you need just a bucket that's what you need and stick it that way let dry over nite then grout do not use thin-set on formica it will not stick i watch diy and they don't know any thing about tile

good luck

tile expert

Answer 2

We have been installing ceramic onto Formica for years. Here is our method, proven by trial and error. It yields about the best lasting results.

We use a metal lath, which is available at drywall distribution centers. It comes in sections 28 inch wide x 120 long. It is a galvanized perforated metal and costs us today about $7 today.

1. First scuff up the Formica shine with a gitterbug sander using coarsest paper possible. I mean really scuff it up. Then attach the galvanized metal lath to the countertop using regular drywall screws, the screws we use are a #6 x 3/4 long.
Bend the metal lath over the corners, be sure that both the inside corner and the outside edge have a BEND. You can run a splice in the metal lath, but never on a bend, The tile will crack there if you do.

2. Then we attach the tile using a Polyuethane Cement. We use the stuff From Lowes or Depot in large tubes dispensed with a large caulking gun onto the tiles in bead fashion in lines about one inch apart and across the tiles. Be sure to spray a mist of water onto the mounting area because urethanes need water to sure. Mount the tiles in proper positon. Sometimes you will need a wood shim or two unerneath the tiles to support them for leveling . On the edges we clamp a "runner board" which the tiles then sit on until adhesive has taken hold.

2. Then after a couple of days of setting up. Grout the tiles with a commercial fortified grout.

3. We then wait about 24 hours and seal up the tiles using the following. materials. We use Portland cement mixed with a hardener and collorant. Application to the grooves is done with a leather glove finger and its worked in well into the grout.

4. Next day or so we take a wet and dry paper about 600 grit and with a rounded rubber tool we sand smooth the joints keeping them flused with water as we sand. They will polish out smooth as silk and will not hold any food particles.. You can even polish out the tiles themselves using regular household cleaners. Your tile top is now ready for usage, no other sealants are needed. Particularly no Silicones.

I do not use silicones to seal grout In my opinion, this is a waste of money and a money maker for the manufacturer.

Answer 3

I am not an expert but I have a lot of experience. I think I even saw that same show. I think you can get by doing it that way, but I would not. The old countertop is made of particle board and we all know what happens to it from moisture. If you are going to spend all that money on tile, better do it right then. Pull off your countertops, buy 3/4" plywood and do two layers over the base cabinets the size of counter you need. Then buy that 1/4" or 1/2" cement board and screw it down. Then tile.

Answer 4

Don;t do it. Tiled worktops are so passe now. They are not particularly hygienic with the grout lines absorbing bacteria. You can get some really nice solid wood worktops in Ikea and with the square edge you can fit these fairly easily without having to do a masons mitre on the joints.

I have seen granite veneers where they come and stick thin granite over the existing tops. These 'panels' have a preformed edge and the fitters joint them so it looks like one piece. Having said this I did not think that they were worth the £2000 they charged.

Think it through before embarking on this.

Sorry to be negative

DWD

Answer 5

It all depends on the condition of the laminated plastic counter top (formica is a brand name). If it is solidly glued down with no loose spots, you could belt sand it with coarse paper to give the thin set something better to stick too. But if it was my house, I'd remove the laminate with a heat gun and sand the existing substrate -- if it is plywood. As the above mentions, it could be particle board. We typically use medium density fiberboard now, which is much better. To go the safest route, remove the laminate and substrate and stay over and apply cement-board over new plywood and then tile.

Answer 6

Ok, you got lots of help from well meaning dyi'ers. Now to address your question. If your counter is in good repair, it is NOT going to come apart because you placed tile on it. The only problem will be to make the edge look right. You can place bull nose wood on the edge or use tile, but you will have to make sure it lines up with the top.